If you are going to routinely leave any car, EV or not, parked without
attention for more than 2 weeks routinely, I advise a 12v battery switch be
installed on the negative lead.   Most EVs, including Teslas, will be OK
like this for many months.  If you store a Tesla at 30-70% with the 12v
battery disconnected and the HV pack off, it will be OK for at least a year.

On Mon, Aug 26, 2024 at 10:51 AM Cor van de Water via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org>
wrote:

> First of all, charging and discharging the batteries in the middle of
> their range hardly affects the life of the batteries at all.
> If for some reason you want to fully power off the Tesla and let it
> sit for months without looking at it, and you can have a jump start
> available when you return (even the pocketbook sized USB jump start
> will work for this) then do the following:
> - Open the frunk
> - remove the top plastic cover along the windshield, you should now
> see the top of the 12V battery and the Emergency Disconnect loop
> - use a 10mm wrench and disconnect the negative battery terminal and
> put it aside, not contacting metal
> - use a small flat blade screwdriver and pull open the Emergency
> Disconnect, you will hear the contactors drop, the car is now dead.
> - push the Energency Disconnect back together so as soon as 12V is
> restored, the contactors can close again
> - Before you close the frunk, pry the nose cone off and connect the
> Jump points to a 12V battery and watch the car come back alive again
>   (I forgot to do this and so I found out later that the Jump fuse was
> blown from trying to start an ICE car from the jump points previously,
> I did not know they have a 50A fuse)
> - disconnect the battery from the jump points, pry the Emergency
> Disconnect open and closed again once more so the car is again dead
> - stuff the plastic cover back in place or throw it in the car and put
> the nose cone back in place
> - car can now sit for months without losing a single mile of range,
> just needs a jump when you return.
>
> I was able to regain access to the car myself with a scrap piece of
> metal strip and use the manual frunk open handle under the glove box
> to regain access to the 12V battery and power up the car again.
> I also found out that Tesla has all fuses on top of the battery in 2
> layers, bolted down with 8mm lock nuts and the *center* bolt will fall
> out when you undo those lock nuts to reach the Jump fuse. The service
> manual warns for a bolt falling out, but says it is the lowest bolt.
> It is not. I am still searching for the small plastic piece that falls
> out with the bolt, otherwise the fuse is no longer bolted down, but
> the wire will pull directly on the fuse itself, which is a failure
> waiting to happen. Sigh, why does Tesla want to re-invent everything?
> Cor.
>
> On Mon, Aug 26, 2024 at 7:46 AM Ken Olum via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org> wrote:
> >
> >    From: "(-Phil-)" <p...@ingineerix.com>
> >    Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2024 19:53:48 -0700
> >
> >    What model?   If it's an older S/X then unfortunately they don't have
> the
> >    hardware to sleep fully.
> >
> > Yes, it is a 2015 Model S, so that explains it.
> >
> >    If it's plugged in, then it will take it from the wall when SoC drops
> >    a bit.
> >
> > It does this, but it does it by starting a charging cycle and charging
> > to 70% or whatever I configure it for.  This seems to needlessly
> > discharge and charge the batteries over range of a few percents.
> >
> >                                         Ken
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