First of all, charging and discharging the batteries in the middle of their range hardly affects the life of the batteries at all. If for some reason you want to fully power off the Tesla and let it sit for months without looking at it, and you can have a jump start available when you return (even the pocketbook sized USB jump start will work for this) then do the following: - Open the frunk - remove the top plastic cover along the windshield, you should now see the top of the 12V battery and the Emergency Disconnect loop - use a 10mm wrench and disconnect the negative battery terminal and put it aside, not contacting metal - use a small flat blade screwdriver and pull open the Emergency Disconnect, you will hear the contactors drop, the car is now dead. - push the Energency Disconnect back together so as soon as 12V is restored, the contactors can close again - Before you close the frunk, pry the nose cone off and connect the Jump points to a 12V battery and watch the car come back alive again (I forgot to do this and so I found out later that the Jump fuse was blown from trying to start an ICE car from the jump points previously, I did not know they have a 50A fuse) - disconnect the battery from the jump points, pry the Emergency Disconnect open and closed again once more so the car is again dead - stuff the plastic cover back in place or throw it in the car and put the nose cone back in place - car can now sit for months without losing a single mile of range, just needs a jump when you return.
I was able to regain access to the car myself with a scrap piece of metal strip and use the manual frunk open handle under the glove box to regain access to the 12V battery and power up the car again. I also found out that Tesla has all fuses on top of the battery in 2 layers, bolted down with 8mm lock nuts and the *center* bolt will fall out when you undo those lock nuts to reach the Jump fuse. The service manual warns for a bolt falling out, but says it is the lowest bolt. It is not. I am still searching for the small plastic piece that falls out with the bolt, otherwise the fuse is no longer bolted down, but the wire will pull directly on the fuse itself, which is a failure waiting to happen. Sigh, why does Tesla want to re-invent everything? Cor. On Mon, Aug 26, 2024 at 7:46 AM Ken Olum via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org> wrote: > > From: "(-Phil-)" <p...@ingineerix.com> > Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2024 19:53:48 -0700 > > What model? If it's an older S/X then unfortunately they don't have the > hardware to sleep fully. > > Yes, it is a 2015 Model S, so that explains it. > > If it's plugged in, then it will take it from the wall when SoC drops > a bit. > > It does this, but it does it by starting a charging cycle and charging > to 70% or whatever I configure it for. This seems to needlessly > discharge and charge the batteries over range of a few percents. > > Ken > _______________________________________________ > Address messages to ev@lists.evdl.org > No other addresses in TO and CC fields > HELP: http://www.evdl.org/help/ > _______________________________________________ Address messages to ev@lists.evdl.org No other addresses in TO and CC fields HELP: http://www.evdl.org/help/
