Robert Bruninga via EV wrote:
Well, got home, checked what I had and yes the controller is toast. So...
I slowly remembered why I started this project. It is to be my retiremeent
car for the rest of my life. And I don't want to be dependent on no
stinkin' dealers or computers...
DC systems do have that advantage. I drove a 1902 Baker EV that was
still pretty much all original, and still worked. Try to imagine THAT
with any modern car!
What kind of controller do you have? Do you know yet what failed on it?
There is normally a fuse on the input to the controller. Reversing power
should only have blown that fuse.
Another thing that puzzles me. There is normally a contactor, circuit
breaker, or other type of "big switch" between the battery and
controller. It should have been OPEN when you were charging; thus no
damage from reversing the pack (until you switched on the key).
The controller has a common terminal for one of the battery and one
motor lead... I have a good motor, and good batteries...
So all I gotta do is take a battery cable and jumper the other
motor terminal over to the battery!
That works, as long as the controller didn't fail SHORTED. (Which is its
NORMAL failure mode). :-(
A safer way to do this is to DISCONNECT the wires to the controller, and
connect your motor to just a few of your 12v batteries through the main
contactor. Then when you bump the throttle pedal, it closes the main
contactor, and you can drive forward at 36v (like a golf cart with a
contactor controller).
--
Pollution is nothing but the resources we are not harvesting. We
allow them to disperse because we've been ignorant of their value.
-- R. Buckminster Fuller
--
Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com
_______________________________________________
UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org
For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA
(http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
