Lee, the pack was fine, it was the 12V battery that was reversed so it is typical things like the radio, clock and in this case, controller that get -12V and blow one or more things... I too hope that a fuse or a DC/DC converter power supply has blown and the heart of the controller is still operational, but it depends on how it was designed...
We are not talking about the cheese wedge, are we? Cor van de Water Chief Scientist Proxim Wireless office +1 408 383 7626 Skype: cor_van_de_water XoIP +31 87 784 1130 private: cvandewater.info www.proxim.com This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and proprietary information of Proxim Wireless Corporation. If you received this message in error, please delete it and notify the sender. Any unauthorized use, disclosure, distribution, or copying of any part of this message is prohibited. -----Original Message----- From: EV [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Lee Hart via EV Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2015 12:41 PM To: Robert Bruninga; Electric Vehicle Discussion List Subject: Re: [EVDL] Polarity Reversal (duh) Robert Bruninga via EV wrote: > Well, got home, checked what I had and yes the controller is toast. So... > I slowly remembered why I started this project. It is to be my > retiremeent car for the rest of my life. And I don't want to be > dependent on no stinkin' dealers or computers... DC systems do have that advantage. I drove a 1902 Baker EV that was still pretty much all original, and still worked. Try to imagine THAT with any modern car! What kind of controller do you have? Do you know yet what failed on it? There is normally a fuse on the input to the controller. Reversing power should only have blown that fuse. Another thing that puzzles me. There is normally a contactor, circuit breaker, or other type of "big switch" between the battery and controller. It should have been OPEN when you were charging; thus no damage from reversing the pack (until you switched on the key). > The controller has a common terminal for one of the battery and one > motor lead... I have a good motor, and good batteries... > So all I gotta do is take a battery cable and jumper the other motor > terminal over to the battery! That works, as long as the controller didn't fail SHORTED. (Which is its NORMAL failure mode). :-( A safer way to do this is to DISCONNECT the wires to the controller, and connect your motor to just a few of your 12v batteries through the main contactor. Then when you bump the throttle pedal, it closes the main contactor, and you can drive forward at 36v (like a golf cart with a contactor controller). -- Pollution is nothing but the resources we are not harvesting. We allow them to disperse because we've been ignorant of their value. -- R. Buckminster Fuller -- Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com _______________________________________________ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) _______________________________________________ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
