Why bother with the G5RV/coax situation when you’ll gain a lot more flexibility 
and efficiency with just running the ladder line directly to the antenna and a 
link style tuner at the station end. No balun needed. The G5RV was developed 
before the advent of good ATUs and was originally designed for 80 and 40, and 
you could get it to load on 20 with a Pi or link style tank on your 1947 
transmitter. The 102 foot doublet or center fed double extended zepp if you 
prefer is non resonant and will tune and provide gain on most HF bands. Way 
before any WARC bands or much use of 15 or 10M. Research this from LB Cebik and 
Joel Hallas (the Dr is in podcasts from ARRL). 
Dan Presley 503-701-3871
 N7CQR @arrl.net
danpresley@me. com 


> On Jul 19, 2025, at 18:25, dave ingebright via Elecraft 
> <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> Thanks Jack! I have a choke, but have never felt I needed one in 7 yrs of 
> operating the ladder dipole, but I am eliminating all variables. Will hook it 
> up and check the video/artticle. But if the tuners are damaged, I won't know 
> it = same results.
> Ref your earlier reply - thanks very much - [Hey, Lake Charles is on my 
> bucket list, long story hihi] Could the tuner could be hot switching..? I 
> have the PTT inhibit RCA cord between the KPA, so it should be inhibited 
> during xmit.
> I have gone through my antenna systems, even to the point where I replaced 
> the RG-8 and the antenna. The MFJ analyzer said the coax was marginal so now 
> its coiled in the garage.
> The PL-259s are shiny and clean and under several wraps of vulcanizing tape. 
> Then I wasn't happy with the homebrew G5RV and bought a commercial NI4L super 
> G55RV/ZB6BKW. Tunes every time with the radio ATU, KAT500 not so happy but 
> liked it six months ago..
> Nothing changed, not even a 90 degree adapter. Very odd. I don't want a no 
> fault found from Watsonville but this is making me tear my hair out. Might 
> even ready to write another $1000 check.
> //dave
> WB7ELY
> 
> On 07/19/2025 5:29 PM PDT Jack Brindle <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> 
> One other thing that I am surprised that K9YC has not mentioned. In the G5RV, 
> the 450 ohm ladder line (don’t use 300 ohm line) connected directly to the 
> coax. That sets up a situation where return currents may be flowing on the 
> outside of the coax shield. Which is really bad. The coax needs to have a 
> choke at that point. You can wind the coax through a fairly large toroid to 
> do the job (as many as you can put on the toroid). The best source of 
> information for this is K9YC’s site - he has a Choke Cookbook that is a must 
> read for this topic. Jim spent many hours doing extensive research on this 
> very topic, and has published the results of all that research. And, it is 
> free! See: http://audiosystemsgroup.com/2018Cookbook-Pacificon2021.pdf
> While you are at it, you might look over the various presentations that Jim 
> has made available. The main site is at: 
> http://audiosystemsgroup.com/publish.htm
> And, Jim is here to answer our questions. He is one of the guys I miss since 
> moving away from 6-land.
> 
> 73,
> Jack, W6FB
> 
> 
> 
> On Jul 19, 2025, at 7:11 PM, Jack Brindle via Elecraft 
> <[email protected]> wrote:
> Ladder-line? THAT is an important piece of information. Open wire line is 
> great. It is very hard to get these days. Almost as great is ladder line. I 
> use a lot of it. It has one pretty big problem - when it gets wet, its 
> impedance characteristics change. When that happens you will need to retune. 
> I say this with a lot of experience. In this case it is not the ATU, but 
> definitely the ladder line.
> 
> I will say for the second time, there are NO reed relays in the KAT500 or 
> KPA500. I am very familiar with those relays. They can carry lots of power, 
> but do not take kindly to being hot-switched. My KPA500 code makes sure they 
> are not hot-switched, and I know the code in the KAT500 performs the same 
> way. When we need to break the PTT line to the amplifier, we use a smaller 
> relay that handles the very low current signaling of the PTT line. And yes, 
> we do negate the PTT/Key line if SWR gets out of range.
> 
> Third, you should be using about 20 watts to tune the KAT500. It performs 
> best at that level. In any case, be sure to read the KAt500 manual - it tells 
> you the correct specs and how you should handle things. Also, while it is a 
> good idea, there is no need to tune the KAT with the KPA500 in STBY. The 
> KAT500 always opens the PTT line when a tune is requested, which directly 
> puts the KPA into low-power mode where it is not amplifying. This assumes, of 
> course, that you are using the proper control cables to connect the 
> transceiver to the KAT500, then to the KPA500. Again, read and follow the 
> manuals.
> 
> You _could_ have a problem with the KAT500s, but if both behave the same, it 
> is probably not them. As much as we hate going through our antenna systems, 
> that is a must in this case. You really don’t want to send the KATs back to 
> Watsonville only to have them returned with no trouble found along with a 
> repair and shipping bill. Take the time to make sure your antennas really are 
> in good shape. We get lots of reports on this one, and pretty much every time 
> the ham ends up finding something deficient in the antenna system. Just 
> because something works well at 100 watts, does not mean it will at 500. And 
> yes, pretty much everyone who upgrades to an amplifier (including me) found 
> this out the hard way. I learned the lesson and fixed my antennas properly, 
> and still use the very first KPA500 many years after we first powered it up. 
> It is a great amplifier!
> 
> 73,
> Jack, W6FB
> KPA500 firmware developer and engineer of other devices…
> 
> 
> On Jul 19, 2025, at 11:35 AM, dave ingebright via Elecraft 
> <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> Jim, Thanks for your query. I'm tuning at less than 10W, KPA amp always in 
> STBY. Sometimes the tuner finds a better match at a little more power (25-75 
> Watts); someone else mentioned that, too.
> But again, yesterday, it found the solution (Multiband ladder-fed G5RV at 
> 40') 14Mhz, and everything was fine during the first part of the FT8 QSO, and 
> then the tuner went to a high SWR fault for no apparent reason.
> I reset it, and it was fine for the rest of the operating session. It doesn't 
> matter what band or what power. Remember, I have two of these doing the same 
> thing.
> I still bet there are a couple of little reed relays with pitted contacts in 
> the auto tuner. I am sure a lot of us have wondered how they get away with 
> using those in a ~500W high-voltage environment. I will call the tech line, 
> but wondered if any of you on this reflector have had this problem
> //dave
> WB7ELY
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