Check your grounds! On my 36-1 there was a big ground connection near the side of the engine compartment (so under the companionway steps) that had josstled itself loose and caused a ton of weird electrical issues. I'd recommend spending some time tracing the wires coming from your batteries, especially on the ground/negative side of things, and look for loose/bad connections. Good luck!
On Wed, Oct 26, 2022 at 2:34 PM David Knecht via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Picture helps jog the memory. That is exactly what the panel I have as > well. I remember the needle bouncing a bit when I push the glow plug > button, but I don’t think it went to 30. Will have to check. I am glad > you reminded me of that article. One thing I think I can do is run the > orange power wire directly to the glow plug switch and see what happens. > The meters won’t work, but I presume the engine should crank. Dave > > S/V Aries > 1990 C&C 34+ > New London, CT > > > On Oct 26, 2022, at 1:56 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > My ammeter had numbers just like the picture of the control panel shown in > that article. The article also shows a wiring diagram. > > On Wed, Oct 26, 2022 at 1:57 PM David Knecht via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> It is wired just like the Universal manual diagram except that the jumper >> for the start button was moved to the glow plug plus side so the two >> switches are independent and you can start without pushing the glow plug >> button. I don’t remember what the ammeter shows when starting but I don’t >> think my gauge has numbers. I have not installed the glow plug solenoid he >> discusses so that is stock. Dave >> >> David Knecht >> Rear Commodore >> Thames Yacht Club >> New London, CT >> >> >> >> On Oct 26, 2022, at 12:44 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >> How is the ammeter at the control panel wired. Does the charge current >> from the alternator go all the way from the alternator up to the ammeter on >> the instrument panel and then back to the batteries? I always felt that >> glow plug button was kind of special and I noticed that my ammeter showed >> 30 or more when I depressed it and for as long as it was depressed. >> >> On Wed, Oct 26, 2022 at 1:35 PM David Knecht via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >>> Here are a few answers to the comments: >>> >>> All of this started with replacement of old switches for new ones. Same >>> wires but each terminal cleaned before attachment. I find it hard to >>> believe that cleaned terminals and new switches caused a ground fault >>> problem at some remote site that was not there before. Things were >>> generally working before I did anything. Now nothing works. >>> >>> To Dwights suggestion: After reading that Marine How to article years >>> ago, I replaced all the trailer connectors with heat shrink direct butt >>> splice connectors for each wire. I also installed a Blue Seas ACR/battery >>> switch, so the batteries are supposed to be isolated. >>> >>> I really can’t understand how this problem is affecting both batteries >>> when the two circuits are isolated by the ACR. When I try to start the >>> engine, everything goes crazy- including both battery volt meter readings. >>> The meter goes completely blank as if both batteries are dead and then >>> voltage slowly recovers over time. >>> >>> I am also mystified by how I can be measuring over 12V on the plus side >>> of the key switch and 10V on the other side when it is on. That is >>> measured relative to a ground terminal on the tachometer. There is nothing >>> there except the switch itself, right? I am guessing that means something >>> in terms of the problem, but I don’t know what. >>> Thanks- Dave >>> >>> S/V Aries >>> 1990 C&C 34+ >>> New London, CT >>> >>> <pastedGraphic.tiff> >>> >> >>> On Oct 26, 2022, at 11:48 AM, dwight veinot via CnC-List < >>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >>> >>> If you have a Universal M4-30 engine with associated engine control >>> panel with ammeter this article contains some very important information >>> for you to know. >>> Universal Diesel Engine - Wiring Harness Upgrade - Marine How To >>> <https://marinehowto.com/universal-diesel-engine-wiring-harness-upgrade/> >>> Dwight Veinot >>> C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna* >>> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS >>> d.ve...@bellaliant.net >>> >>> >>> >>> On Tue, Oct 25, 2022 at 11:10 PM David Knecht via CnC-List < >>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >>> >>>> More diagnosis- I found that when I checked the voltage at the engine >>>> panel ammeter (where power comes to the panel), it was 12V. When I checked >>>> at the input side of the key switch it was 12 V. When I turned the key >>>> switch on, I got 10V on the other pole of the key switch and everywhere >>>> downstream. I am presuming it should be 12V on both sides. I do not >>>> understand what that means and hoping someone else does. The other weird >>>> thing is that as I have worked on this, there are times when the battery >>>> meter in the cabin bounces all over the place from 9V to 12V and back and >>>> then finally settles at 12.9V. At the same time, the batteries are >>>> measuring 12.5V. Something very strange is happening. Dave >>>> >>>> S/V Aries >>>> 1990 C&C 34+ >>>> New London, CT >>>> >>>> <pastedGraphic.tiff> >>>> >>> >>>> On Oct 25, 2022, at 2:56 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List < >>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >>>> >>>> HELP! I am stumped and hoping someone can point me in the right >>>> direction. Long descrition as best i can recall. Two weeks ago i thought i >>>> would get a head start on a project. My start button has been flakey this >>>> summer with now and then nothing happening when pressed. Decided to replace >>>> key switch, glow plug and start buttons. I installed key and glow but could >>>> not get start out so gave up. Engine started fine after rewiring. Come back >>>> next week and no response to start button. Battery fine. Lots of messing >>>> around but no luck. Come back today and wire in new start button in case >>>> old bad. Recheck wiring and realize key switch is wired backwards (does it >>>> matter? I guess you are supplying power to downstream stuff when off?). Did >>>> not check and misremembered which wire supplied power. Swapped wires on key >>>> switch and checked meter and 12v on proper side (bat).All looks good. Turn >>>> on key switch and fuel pump starts as normal. Push start button and >>>> nothing. Now i measure 4v at engine panel instead of 12. Battery meters >>>> dead display and measuring 4v at its inputs. But 12v at battery and main >>>> power switch. Other devices fine. Over an hour now and panel and battery >>>> meter up to 6v so seems to be slowly recovering. What is going on? Did i >>>> screw something up when key switch was backwards? Dave >>>> >>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> -- >> Sent from Gmail Mobile >> >> >> -- > Sent from Gmail Mobile > > >
