You need a  better meter that registers volts in tenths or hundreths of volts.  
Sounds like the batteries are OK.  Eventually you will find a bad connection 
between the battery and the switch and the starter.  Best to eliminate those 
control wire harness quick connects and wire the red lead straight from the 
battery to the control panel and then back to the starter.  

I keep a large screw driver onboard and the rare times the panel button didn't 
work, I simply shorted the terminals at the starter, to override the solenoid 
and engage the starter.  I've since rewired that red wire and it starts every 
time using the panel start button.

Chuck S




>     On 10/25/2022 10:10 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> 
>     More diagnosis- I found that when I checked the voltage at the engine 
> panel ammeter (where power comes to the panel), it was 12V.  When I checked 
> at the input side of the key switch it was 12 V.  When I turned the key 
> switch on, I got 10V on the other pole of the key switch and everywhere 
> downstream. I am presuming it should be 12V on both sides. I do not 
> understand what that means and hoping someone else does.  The other weird 
> thing is that as I have worked on this, there are times when the battery 
> meter in the cabin bounces all over the place from 9V to 12V and back and 
> then finally settles at 12.9V.  At the same time, the batteries are measuring 
> 12.5V.  Something very strange is happening.  Dave
> 
>     S/V Aries
>     1990 C&C 34+
>     New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
>         > >         On Oct 25, 2022, at 2:56 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > 
> >         HELP!  I am stumped and hoping someone can point me in the right 
> > direction.  Long descrition as best i can recall. Two weeks ago i thought i 
> > would get a head start on a project. My start button has been flakey this 
> > summer with now and then nothing happening when pressed. Decided to replace 
> > key switch, glow plug and start buttons. I installed key and glow but could 
> > not get start out so gave up. Engine started fine after rewiring. Come back 
> > next week and no response to start button. Battery fine. Lots of messing 
> > around but no luck. Come back today and wire in new start button in case 
> > old bad. Recheck wiring and realize key switch is wired backwards (does it 
> > matter? I guess you are supplying power to downstream stuff when off?). Did 
> > not check and misremembered which wire supplied power. Swapped wires on key 
> > switch and checked meter and 12v on proper side (bat).All looks good.  Turn 
> > on key switch and fuel pump starts as normal. Push start button and 
> > nothing. Now i measure 4v 
 at engine panel instead of 12. Battery meters dead display and measuring 4v at 
its inputs. But 12v at battery and main power switch. Other devices fine. Over 
an hour now and panel and battery meter up to 6v so seems to be slowly 
recovering. What is going on? Did i screw something up when key switch was 
backwards?  Dave
> > 
> >         Sent from my iPhone
> > 
> >     > 
> 

Reply via email to