My ammeter had numbers just like the picture of the control panel shown in that article. The article also shows a wiring diagram.
On Wed, Oct 26, 2022 at 1:57 PM David Knecht via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > It is wired just like the Universal manual diagram except that the jumper > for the start button was moved to the glow plug plus side so the two > switches are independent and you can start without pushing the glow plug > button. I don’t remember what the ammeter shows when starting but I don’t > think my gauge has numbers. I have not installed the glow plug solenoid he > discusses so that is stock. Dave > > David Knecht > Rear Commodore > Thames Yacht Club > New London, CT > > > > On Oct 26, 2022, at 12:44 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > How is the ammeter at the control panel wired. Does the charge current > from the alternator go all the way from the alternator up to the ammeter on > the instrument panel and then back to the batteries? I always felt that > glow plug button was kind of special and I noticed that my ammeter showed > 30 or more when I depressed it and for as long as it was depressed. > > On Wed, Oct 26, 2022 at 1:35 PM David Knecht via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Here are a few answers to the comments: >> >> All of this started with replacement of old switches for new ones. Same >> wires but each terminal cleaned before attachment. I find it hard to >> believe that cleaned terminals and new switches caused a ground fault >> problem at some remote site that was not there before. Things were >> generally working before I did anything. Now nothing works. >> >> To Dwights suggestion: After reading that Marine How to article years >> ago, I replaced all the trailer connectors with heat shrink direct butt >> splice connectors for each wire. I also installed a Blue Seas ACR/battery >> switch, so the batteries are supposed to be isolated. >> >> I really can’t understand how this problem is affecting both batteries >> when the two circuits are isolated by the ACR. When I try to start the >> engine, everything goes crazy- including both battery volt meter readings. >> The meter goes completely blank as if both batteries are dead and then >> voltage slowly recovers over time. >> >> I am also mystified by how I can be measuring over 12V on the plus side >> of the key switch and 10V on the other side when it is on. That is >> measured relative to a ground terminal on the tachometer. There is nothing >> there except the switch itself, right? I am guessing that means something >> in terms of the problem, but I don’t know what. >> Thanks- Dave >> >> S/V Aries >> 1990 C&C 34+ >> New London, CT >> >> <pastedGraphic.tiff> >> > >> On Oct 26, 2022, at 11:48 AM, dwight veinot via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >> If you have a Universal M4-30 engine with associated engine control panel >> with ammeter this article contains some very important information for you >> to know. >> Universal Diesel Engine - Wiring Harness Upgrade - Marine How To >> <https://marinehowto.com/universal-diesel-engine-wiring-harness-upgrade/> >> Dwight Veinot >> C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna* >> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS >> d.ve...@bellaliant.net >> >> >> >> On Tue, Oct 25, 2022 at 11:10 PM David Knecht via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >>> More diagnosis- I found that when I checked the voltage at the engine >>> panel ammeter (where power comes to the panel), it was 12V. When I checked >>> at the input side of the key switch it was 12 V. When I turned the key >>> switch on, I got 10V on the other pole of the key switch and everywhere >>> downstream. I am presuming it should be 12V on both sides. I do not >>> understand what that means and hoping someone else does. The other weird >>> thing is that as I have worked on this, there are times when the battery >>> meter in the cabin bounces all over the place from 9V to 12V and back and >>> then finally settles at 12.9V. At the same time, the batteries are >>> measuring 12.5V. Something very strange is happening. Dave >>> >>> S/V Aries >>> 1990 C&C 34+ >>> New London, CT >>> >>> <pastedGraphic.tiff> >>> >> >>> On Oct 25, 2022, at 2:56 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List < >>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >>> >>> HELP! I am stumped and hoping someone can point me in the right >>> direction. Long descrition as best i can recall. Two weeks ago i thought i >>> would get a head start on a project. My start button has been flakey this >>> summer with now and then nothing happening when pressed. Decided to replace >>> key switch, glow plug and start buttons. I installed key and glow but could >>> not get start out so gave up. Engine started fine after rewiring. Come back >>> next week and no response to start button. Battery fine. Lots of messing >>> around but no luck. Come back today and wire in new start button in case >>> old bad. Recheck wiring and realize key switch is wired backwards (does it >>> matter? I guess you are supplying power to downstream stuff when off?). Did >>> not check and misremembered which wire supplied power. Swapped wires on key >>> switch and checked meter and 12v on proper side (bat).All looks good. Turn >>> on key switch and fuel pump starts as normal. Push start button and >>> nothing. Now i measure 4v at engine panel instead of 12. Battery meters >>> dead display and measuring 4v at its inputs. But 12v at battery and main >>> power switch. Other devices fine. Over an hour now and panel and battery >>> meter up to 6v so seems to be slowly recovering. What is going on? Did i >>> screw something up when key switch was backwards? Dave >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> >>> >> -- > Sent from Gmail Mobile > > > -- Sent from Gmail Mobile
