I went through 2 North 3DL #1 genoas over 6 years.  One good year, one
average year and one lousy year for each sail.  The plastic laminate was a
poor product for sure.

I bought the North 3DI raw for my #1 & #3 plus mainsail and they are as new
after 3 full race seasons.  A bit more money but over the long term they
last and perform.  And the black sails look cool too :)

On Fri, Jan 29, 2021 at 3:08 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> A great segue to my next question for the list:
>
> I had my last laminate sail (probably 3-5 in total after the past 15+
> years) fall apart after ~ 4-5 years of club use in NC (North 3Di) and have
> decided that my next headsail (155%) will NOT be a laminate. I too have old
> Dacron sails (90% and 140%) that have not been used much and look/feel like
> new.
>
> My question is--I'd like some opinions from the listers on the material
> and the sail maker. I am thinking of dacron and North (Nordac).
>
> I have had super life out of my Hood main (high denier dacron with
> Vectran), used now for 10 years and still going. However, the headsail they
> sold me was never cut correctly, even after I returned it to the loft--so I
> won't go there, even if Hood still existed.(I think Quantum took over Hood
> after Ted's passing).
>
> I am an active CLUB racer, occasionally doing CRW but very far from 'Grand
> Prix' racing--but I do have a ORC measurement certificate! Most of my
> racing is buoy in the NC sounds where the wind rarely gets above 15 knots
> and the temperature rarely is below 70 degrees when racing.
>
> At the risk of getting as many suggestions as listers (maybe more!), what
> do the listers think about non-laminate sail material, cuts, molded, etc.
> Whatever I settle on will be measured by the sailmaker on the boat.
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> To: Stus-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com>
> Sent: Fri, Jan 29, 2021 11:13 am
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Furler question
>
> Dacron seems to last forever if it is clean dry and out of the sun.  My #1
> is from around 1990 and looks like new.  I've used it twice.  PO might have
> used it occasionally.
>
> Joel
>
> On Fri, Jan 29, 2021 at 11:04 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I really only have one furling full hoist sail, so it wasn’t that bad. My
> genoas are deck sweepers and need the furling drum removed and the jib and
> storm jib are not even close to full hoist.
> Speaking of, the jib dates to 1973 and the storm jib to 1979. I don’t
> think either one has been out of their bags in this century!
> How long do sails last anyway? Maybe they’ll fall apart if used. I don’t
> think the storm jib has more than 1,000 miles total use ever, but its old.
> The old working jib got used plenty back in the day. The last time I had
> that one up was around 1990 in about 50-60 knots running dead downwind.
> That was a fun day 😊
> Joe
> Coquina
>
> *From:* Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *Sent:* Friday, January 29, 2021 10:53 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* cenel...@aol.com
> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Furler question
>
> The perfect solution to the problem Joe!
>
> Depending on the difference between 'too high and too low', finding the
> sweet spot could be a chore and would likely require different shackle
> lengths at the deck level for different sails.
>
> A proper restrainer allows more 'slop' in the effective luff length
> without chewing up the halyard/sheave and prevents the wrapping problem.
> Perhaps not the perfect solution but a good one that works--keeping in mind
> the adage to '...not let the perfect be the enemy of the good..!'
>
> YMMV
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> To: Stus-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: Della Barba, Joe <joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>
> Sent: Fri, Jan 29, 2021 8:35 am
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Furler question
> What I discovered was the overall position of the halyard and top swivel
> was critical. Assuming you have a full hoist sail and no retainer, you need
> to adjust the shackle length at deck level to get the halyard as far up as
> you can without running the nicropress into the sheave. Too high and it
> chews up the halyard and sheave and/or you can’t get correct tension, too
> low and it wraps.
> Joe
> Coquina
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> <https://protect2.fireeye.com/v1/url?k=c07536b5-9fee0f7e-c0751fc2-0cc47adc5fec-809ea6cfc7417437&q=1&e=50f08f83-9314-4d89-be58-e2b081da78ba&u=https%253A%252F%252Fwww.paypal.me%252Fstumurray>Thanks
> - Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
>
>
> --
> Joel
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks -
> Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

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