G-10 is a common premade pultruded eglass epoxy material also called garolite or FR4:
https://www.mcmaster.com/grade-g-10-garolite/multipurpose-flame-retardant-garolite-g-10-fr4-sheets-and-bars/ Very handy for repairs, backing plates that don’t corrode (use 1/4” or thicker), replacement core material in an area you will drill through, etc. you can make your own material by laying up glass and epoxy on a plate coated with release agent but but buying it is easier and it is tightly dimensioned In thickness. I keep a bunch of different thicknesses on hand. Cuts with a cut off wheel on the grinder or the circular saw (dulls the blade). Sand the faces before bonding. Nathan - - Nathan Post S/V Wisper > On Jun 14, 2020, at 9:26 AM, Neil Andersen <neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com> > wrote: > > > G10?? > > Neil Andersen > 20691 Jamieson Rd > Rock Hall, MD 21661 > 484-354-8800 > From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> on behalf of Nathan Post via > CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Sent: Sunday, June 14, 2020 6:51:51 AM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Cc: Nathan Post <nathan8...@gmail.com> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Glassing In Cabin Wall Holes > > Randy, > I just did this for a broken autopilot that was mounted in the sides of my > cockpit that wasn’t working. My strategy was to use an angle grinder to > taper the edges of the hole back to try and get at least an inch of exposed > glass on an angle all around the hole. Then I took a piece of roughly 0.1” > thick g10 that was bigger then the hole and glued it in behind. First sand > the G10 with course grit paper, clean with acetone and then use a fast > setting adhesive (I used 3M 8805NS) and tape in place until set. In your > case you need to get it between the liner and the deck laminate so if you > don’t have access from elsewhere you may need to do it in more than one > piece. Then just use masking tape on the back of the seam when you go to > laminate glass in. Once the g10 is bonded and cured you can wet lay glass > fabric in to fill the hole. use slow epoxy and orienting the layers in > different directions. Doesn’t matter if the glass goes slightly beyond the > hole- you can sand it off later. When that is cured sand off areas that stick > out using a large orbital sander with course grit and fill areas that are not > thick enough with fairing compound. Sand again to 120 grit. Prime and paint > or gel coat to finish. > > You may want to stick with a teak or starboard cover plate on the inside as I > think it will be harder to match the liner well and if you put instruments in > you may want access to wire the backside anyway. > > - - > Nathan Post > S/V Wisper > > > On Jun 13, 2020, at 11:29 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List > > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > > Hello Listers, > > > > Today I removed a broken compass from Grenadine’s cabin wall, and a teak > > nacelle it was in. There’s a 4.5” circular hole in the cabin wall and > > interior liner. Right now I’m covering it temporarily with a teak panel. > > Longer term I might like to glass in the holes for that and other > > instruments, and go to more flat-panel electronic instruments. > > > > So, can anybody advise me on the procedure for re-glassing a 4.5” circular > > hole in a cabin wall, and liner? The cabin wall looks to be maybe 3/8” > > thick, and the liner maybe 3/16” think, both uncored. > > > > Thank you in advance. > > > > Cheers, > > Randy Stafford > > S/V Grenadine > > C&C 30 MK I #79 > > Ken Caryl, CO > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >
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