When the conduit was installed in the mast of my 38, we used long sections of 
thin wall PVC electrical conduit. The mast was down and laid with the front of 
the mast on the bottom, then the spreaders were blocked up to make the front 
curve of the mast the lowest point on the interior.

 

Put a healthy bead of 5200 along the layline of the conduit (to make sure it 
was straight), inserted the conduit with the adhesive on to, and then rolled it 
over to get the adhesive between the conduit and the inner surface of the mast. 
After the adhesive had cured, we drilled a series of holes through mast & 
conduit and secured permanently with short pop rivets. Then drilled the conduit 
where the wires the spreader light, masthead (steaming) light, and foredeck 
light came through the mast. We used an electrician’s fish to run the wires 
through the conduit.

 

The only “deficiency” I see was the inability to put pop rivets in to hold the 
conduit for the section of mast to which the track for the spin pole is 
attached. But that hasn’t been a problem in the 12 years or so that the conduit 
has been in place.

 

BTW, I used the 3-zip-tie technique to quiet the mast of my 25 when I replaced 
the mast and rewired about 15 years ago. That was much easier, and just as 
effective as far as I can see.

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk2 #47

la Belle Aurore  C&C 25 mk1 #225

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Nathan Post 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 9, 2020 8:11 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Nathan Post <nathan8...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List securing cables in mast

 

David,

 

I haven't tried it yet but am leaning in that direction.  The strategies I have 
seen discussed on other forums involve assembling the conduit first (gluing the 
sections together with a messenger line through it) and either sliding it into 
the mast and then drilling and using blind rivets to attach it.  Some say to 
drill an extra hold to use a wire hook and hold the conduit in place while 
drilling and riveting.  It also seems possible that the conduit will be stiff 
enough to stay in place for the next rivet once the first two are done but I 
guess that remains to be seen when I try it.  If I need to drill the extra hole 
then I will just put a rivet in it afterwards to plug it.  The alternative I 
have seen proposed is to put a bead of 3M 4200 or sikaflex on the top of the 
conduit as you slide it in the mast and then rotate the tube so that the 
adhesive contacts the mast and bonds in place.   Not sure how good a bond 
quality you could get and it would not be good if it came loose so I don't 
think I will do that.  Also leaves a good chance of getting halyards and the 
like stuck.  There are definitely some advantages over loose wires in the mast 
(which bang around) and a zip tie bundle which creates potential issues with 
tangling the halyards in various ways.  If I didn't have so many internal 
halyards I would be less concerned about that.  I also want to be able to run 
the cables from top to bottom since I have some larger connectors that came 
pre-installed and don't really want to have to cut those off or make bigger 
holes in the mast for them.

 

So that is the plan at this point.  Tasks are to figure out how large a conduit 
will fit and what wall thickness to get - then to get appropriate conduit and 
rivets and a messenger line to move forward.

 

Nathan

 

~~~

Nathan Post

S/V Wisper

1981 C&C 34 CB

Lynn, MA

 

On Thu, Apr 9, 2020 at 7:31 AM David Risch via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

So let me understand this...folks have installed conduit for the length of the 
mast inside the mast...?  Thought of that but abandoned due to complexity or 
did I overthink?

Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you. 

 

  _____  

From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > on behalf of Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Sent: Wednesday, April 8, 2020 11:22:38 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>  
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Shawn Wright <shawngwri...@gmail.com <mailto:shawngwri...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List securing cables in mast 

 

I used CL200 for our irrigation system, as it was about half the price of 
CSA/UL approved schedule 40. It is definitely thinner, which in this case is a 
bonus. For water pipes, not so much, but I have >1000' in the ground and no 
leaks after the 10 years, except for those pipes I've hit with something. In my 
experience, schedule 40 has much higher strength and impact resistance, and 
schedule 80 even more so, but it's not an issue inside the mast. For making a 
support for a winter cover, I'd use sched 40. 




--

Shawn Wright

shawngwri...@gmail.com <mailto:shawngwri...@gmail.com> 

S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35

https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto

 

 

On Wed, Apr 8, 2020 at 9:06 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Yeah that CL 200 is the pvc which I have for reference.  When I pulled the upc 
off the side it came up as scheduled 40.  I don't know the difference.  I've 
never really had to research pvc pipe so I'm a little out of my element.  

 

Josh 

 

On Wed, Apr 8, 2020, 11:27 Shawn Wright via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I had hoped to pull our mast soon, but with the mast crane out of service due 
to covid, it will have to wait. Some great info on this thread, so I will save 
it. 

 

One option for thinner PVC is to use white (water) PVC, which you can get in a 
CL200 rating (at least in Canada) for light use; it is a bit thinner walled, 
and UV resistance is not an issue inside the mast. You could also seek out 
aluminum electrical conduit, which will be even thinner. Regarding sizing, I 
just installed two 3/4" conduits (grey electrical type) through the bilge for 
wiring, and was able to get the wiring for both Garmin and Standard horizon 
depth sounders through one conduit by staggering the connectors - two 7 pin DIN 
twist lock, and one RCA for the old SH unit. Once the connectors are through, 
there is plenty of space for smaller cables. 

Holding the conduit in place while drilling and riveting might be challenge 
also. Too bad the mast doesn't have a wire track like some of the newer ones. 

 




--

Shawn Wright

shawngwri...@gmail.com <mailto:shawngwri...@gmail.com> 

S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35

https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto

 

 

On Tue, Apr 7, 2020 at 3:30 PM Nathan Post via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

All,

 

As one of my boat projects this spring I am replacing the electrical wiring in 
my mast.   The mast is currently down (horizontal) so now is the time to do it. 
 I want to secure the wires in the mast, in particular to reduce noise (when 
rocking at anchor).  Wisper is a 1981 C&C 34 with a keel stepped mast and 5 
internal halyards in addition to the wires.  The cables are for wind 
instruments, masthead and steaming lights, VHF coax, and radar (power and 
communication) so it will be a substantial bundle with a separate drop at the 
spreader.  The two approaches I am considering are:

 

1) Creating a bundle (wiring harness) of the cables and placing 3 large cable 
ties on the bundle at perhaps 2 or 3 foot intervals with the tails sticking out 
at 120 deg angles that will bend over and press against the mast and keep the 
cables in the middle.  I would use Panduit metal barb outdoor zip ties which 
are robust, smooth edged, and long lasting.

 

2) Installing a PVC conduit (using rivets?) with a feeder line for the cables 
and then running the cables through it.

 

There is support of both methods in various forums online.  Cable ties are 
definitely the simpler method.  The main advantages to the conduit that I see 
is being able to run an additional wire through it at a later time potentially 
with the mast up.  Also I might be able to run cables from top to bottom so 
that a large connector can remain preinstalled on the top (for example for the 
radar unit) rather than needing to feed everything in to the bottom at once and 
then fishing the ends out the various small holes in the mast and reattaching 
connectors.  The disadvantage is the effort required to install it and the 
additional holes I would need to create in the mast.  I am also unsure how 
quiet either solution would be and the relative chance of tangling or extra 
friction or wear on a halyard although most info on-line seems to indicate that 
the conduit is the better choice for that.

 

With the conduit approach, I am also debating if two smaller conduits - one to 
the spreader and one to the mast head - would make more sense than having a 
hole in large conduit at the spreader location.

 

Has anyone done either of these securing approaches?  What are your thoughts on 
the success?  How much does it silence the cables?  Is the effort for the 
conduit worth it?  

 

Thanks,

Nathan Post

S/V Wisper

1981 C&C 34 CB

Lynn MA, USA

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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