Just to update you guys - I did end up finding some lapping compound from a
motorcycle shop - I couldn't get it at Canadian Tire and I didn't want to
wait for Amazon. I lap-ground the one valve that had black scoring on the
inner drum which took away most of the tarnish. Cleaning out the lapping
compound from the outer valve assembly was a pain. I wiped, washed with a
wet rag and dish soap, then re-assembled with grease, then found it still
"gritty" when I operated the valve, so I dismantled it again, wiped clean
again, re-greased and re-assembled. It still feels a little "gritty" but I
think it's just the two newly sanded/ground surfaces rubbing together.
Everything is greased up and re-assembled and I splash on Monday. Wish me
luck!!

Dan

On Sat, May 26, 2018 at 4:46 PM, G Collins via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Dan
>
> I've only lapped the leaking ones (three of mine).  The others, I
> periodically (every couple of years) put grease nipples on and crank in
> some waterproof grease - Loctite Viperlube (Schooner Industrial in
> Burnside).
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
>
> On 2018-05-26 3:49 PM, Daniel Cormier via CnC-List wrote:
>
> They both appeared very smooth- just black tarnish and small amount of
> pitting around the holes but they didn't appear to be in dire need of
> lapping or grinding. There was no build-up or scoring on the inner drums.
> The outer drum is hard to tell.
>
> Do all of you do a round of lapping when you service these?
>
> Dan
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 26, 2018, at 3:32 PM, Kevin Paxton <kpax...@paxdesigns.com> wrote:
>
> Lapping compound is needed to smooth out the surfaces so that they join
> properly and provide a good seal. If they aren't smooth, then the
> possibility of a leak is far greater. Check out that link I provided on the
> servicing of them and it explains it really well.
>
> On Sat, May 26, 2018 at 2:21 PM Daniel Cormier via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Ok, so I finally got them freed up. For one I used a monkey wrench and it
>> gave after considerable force. The second required a 2' pipe slide into the
>> end of my huge monkey wrench and came free with the leverage with no damage
>> to anything as far as I can tell. The drums needed scrubbing with a
>> non-scratching scouring pad and I re-assembled them with lubricant. One
>> drum looked smooth, the other showed a little black and tarnish. I don't
>> have any lapping compound so hopefully I don't get any leaks... how
>> important is the lapping compound step?
>>
>> Thanks for all the help guys!
>>
>> Dan
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On May 25, 2018, at 9:22 PM, G Collins via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> if memory serves, you can take off the handle and fit a regular socket on
>> the stub.  Put a breaker bar on that and heave away.
>>
>> Mine needed to be re-ground to stop leaking, I used a socket wrench on it
>> as it made it a lot faster to turn the cone.
>>
>> Do you need a thin wrench to re-tighten when you have everything loose?
>> I ground one down to fit the inside nut.
>>
>> Graham Collins
>> Secret Plans
>> C&C 35-III #11
>>
>> On 2018-05-25 9:34 AM, Dan via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> Thanks Rick,
>>
>> So far I've removed the nut and large washer plate from the end of both
>> seacocks and exposed the inner drum (yesterday) and sprayed liquid wrench
>> liberally into the creases, into the drain/greasing plug holes, and I
>> stopped up the seackocks from underneath the hull and sprayed intensively
>> down both scuppers to coat the inside of the valve. I removed the handles
>> and put a wrench on this morning and applied pressure and also banged with
>> a rubber mallet to no avail.
>>
>> There's simply no room in there to tap the end of the threaded part with
>> anything. Some kind of compression jig would be ideal but I can't think of
>> anything right now that would fit on there. I have a huge monkey wrench in
>> storage that will probably break them free, or I can try the long pipe
>> trick but I won't have a chance to do anything else until Sunday - will
>> send an update then!
>>
>> Thanks for all the help guys!
>>
>> Dan
>>
>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 11:41 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Dan;
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> The “drain” plugs you mention are actually for lubricating the valve –
>>> kind of like the grease cup most of us have on our rudder shaft housing.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> The valve, as you have probably figured out already, is a tapered plug
>>> that looks like a big metal cork with a hole drilled across the centerline.
>>> There is a retaining shaft on the back with a nut that holds the tapered
>>> plug into the tapered body of the through hull.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> If you loosen the retaining nut on the back by 1 to 2 turns. Don’t
>>> remove it, just loosen it a bit. After your penetrating oil has had a
>>> chance to soak in a bit, tap on the retaining nut with a brass or wooden
>>> mallet. Neither the nut or the threaded shaft on the plug should be
>>> damaged. A sound tap or two will move the plug “out” a fraction of an inch
>>> and break the bond of the internal corrosion.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> When you disassemble the valve to clean up the corrosion, be sure you
>>> don’t damage the outer surface of the plug or the inner surface of the
>>> valve. A smmoth tight fit ( and a liberal amount of grease) is essentially
>>> what keeps water from leaking around the plug.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
>>> *Dennis
>>> C. via CnC-List
>>> *Sent:* Thursday, May 24, 2018 10:43 AM
>>> *To:* CnClist <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>>> *Cc:* Dennis C. <capt...@gmail.com>
>>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> With the boat out of the water, you have more options.  If you poured a
>>> liquid penetrating oil down the scupper, it may coat the plug but chances
>>> are most of it will pass through onto the ground.  If you could figure a
>>> way to plug the seacock from underneath so the oil would be stopped at the
>>> top of the plug when you pour from the top it may then seep around the
>>> plug.  Maybe some Play-Doh?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Dennis C.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:14 AM, Dan via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> I removed the "drain" plugs on both sides of the seacocks (4 in total),
>>> sprayed inside through those, then I sprayed the seams. I should have
>>> loosened that tension bolt on the end. The thought didn't even cross my
>>> mind, but now it makes complete sense. I can try spraying from
>>> undneath/outside the boat which would have the same effect as spraying from
>>> the removed hose?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Dan
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 10:02 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> How did you administer the penetrating oil?  Did you just spray it on
>>> the outside or did you put any down the scupper or remove the hose and put
>>> it in the top?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Dennis C.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:18 AM, Dan via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Ok, I will give it another go with these tips. The good news is I
>>> haven't damaged anything so far and the penetrating oil is still probabbly
>>> getting in there and doing it's thing...
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> The space around these seacocks is very limited so removing them would
>>> be a real bi*ch compared to servicing them so I'm really hoping to free
>>> them. They do look like really expensive and high quality seacocks and are
>>> well adhered to the hull.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks guys, will update with progress!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Dan
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:44 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> forgot to mention that I followed this write up once I got it loose.
>>>
>>> https://marinehowto.com/servicing-tapered-cone-seacocks/
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:39 AM John Christopher via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi Dan,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I believe I have the same ones. I did the same as you with no progress.
>>> I then got a hollow metal tube at the Home Depot to use as leverage over
>>> the handles, and seemingly without much effort (leverage working at its
>>> best$ I was able to work them open and closed.
>>>
>>> /J
>>>
>>>
>>> On May 24, 2018, at 12:42 AM, Dan <dgcorm...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit
>>> drain hoses.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> photos on google drive:
>>>
>>> https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the open
>>> position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't get
>>> them to budge.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of
>>> replacement or should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close
>>> seacocks to the cockpit drains?
>>>
>>> Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> What should I do?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Dan
>>>
>>> Breakaweigh
>>>
>>> C&C44
>>>
>>> Halifax, NS
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
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>>
>>
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>
> _______________________________________________
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> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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>
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