Joe, the damage I was considering would be caused by exceeding the charge
rate for the bank size.  The conventional wisdom is that typical lead acid
batteries should not be charged at a rate greater than 25% of their
capacity.  A 100 AHr battery would be limited to 25 amps.  Isn't it
possible to exceed the charge rate with a good regulator?  Particularly
applicable when the battery is more deeply discharged.

 All of the 3 and 4 stage regulators I've ever seen will ramp up to max
amps and hold there until ~14.6 volts is reached (80% full - end of bulk
charge) at which time the voltage will be held constant at ~14.6v as the
amps are reduced.  Once the amps lower to ~2amps the regulator shifts to
float mode and lowers the voltage to ~13.3v and holds it indefinitely.

As an example lets say that you are using a 100 amp alternator and
regulator to charge a 100AHr battery bank that has been discharged to 50%
capacity.  Isn't it likely that the charge current will ramp to 100 amps?
Or at least greater than 25 amps?  What other regulator function would
prevent this from happening?  I suppose battery temperature could input to
the alternator so as to reduce charge current.  Though, I'm not sure that
battery temperature responds quickly enough to prevent early over current
damage, only overcurrent damage as a result of longer term charging current
which has been applied long enough to raise temperature to the threshold.

Josh

On Oct 16, 2017 3:01 PM, "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Wrecking batteries with a big alternator is why you need a good regulator.
If you are counting on the alternator itself to just be unable to do any
damage because it can’t, you are taking a big risk or and have a very
suboptimal charging setup.

For an extreme example, given a decent regulator, a 1000 amp alternator
should do no harm and you can very much destroy batteries with a 35 amp
alternator. I once worked on a boat whose genset had a 35 amp alternator
set to 16 volts. The owner was buying several batteries a year and didn’t
know why.



Joe

Coquina



*From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh
Muckley via CnC-List
*Sent:* Monday, October 16, 2017 2:50 PM
*To:* C&C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
*Cc:* Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>

*Subject:* Re: Stus-List New Engine, now what size alternator



Not only will they not absorb the charge quickly enough, exceeding the
charge rate will boil the batteries more than staying within the charging
guidelines.  An alternator that is too big for the bank will seriously risk
damaging the batteries.



Larger alternators under full load will also strain the v-belt.  Additional
tention will need to be applied to prevent the belt from slipping.  The
additional tension puts additional side loads on the crankshaft end
bearing.



Lets also remember that full output is only achieved under full RPM.  Many
people enjoy the idea of idling along or running the engine for a few hours
in neutral.  Not only does this not achieve the full rated output of the
alternator but it can also coke up the exhaust elbow and glaze the
cylinders.  Diesel engines should be run at 80% as often as possible and
for as long as possible.



Josh



On Oct 16, 2017 2:19 PM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

With a small battery bank you will not benefit from the larger alternator.
The batteries can't absorb a charge that quickly.



Joel



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On Mon, Oct 16, 2017 at 1:25 PM, David via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

Let me expound a bit on alternators and engine size.   When replaced my
dumb alternator with a Balmar set-up (alternator, smart Charger, digital
Duo etc ) on my 33 hp diesel Balmar recommended no more than the 80 amp
because of the loss of HP which I could ill afford.



If you have HP to spare...go for it.   If not reconsider.





1981 40-2

David F. Risch

(401) 419-4650 (cell)


------------------------------

*From:* CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> on behalf of Josh Muckley
via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
*Sent:* Monday, October 16, 2017 12:47 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Josh Muckley
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List New Engine, now what size alternator



Paul, Thanks for these more accurate "ratings".  It definitely helps to
give an answer to the question of "what does good look like?"  I have never
saught out actual ratings for refrigerator loads and I've never gotten a
AHr meter installed - besides the plethora of variables which make single
point AHr usage almost impossible to  determine.  It seemed like nobody
else had provided a frame of reference besides examples of their own setup
and I was kinda trying to describe a worst case numbers scenario to provide
an upper boundary to the project.  Your numbers bring further clarity by
providing a lower boundary.



You and other listers are absolutely correct that adding insulation is the
best way to reduce refrigerator AHr load.



Thanks,

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C&C 37+

Solomons, MD







On Mon, Oct 16, 2017, 9:20 AM Dreuge via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:



If you have a refrigeration load of 120AH/day, don’t waist money on
increasing battery and charging capacity.



Spend a little cash on better insulation or rebuild your box with more and
better insulation.   It is not unreasonable to shoot for a refrigeration
load under 30AH/day.  Just have a look at Wally’s Stella Blue page titled
“Marine refrigeration and freezer on 22AH/day”(I recall he has a  Frigoboat
unit with keel cooler).   Technautics claim that their CoolBlue system
consumes “24AH/Day for a 7 cubic foot fridge/freezer with R-30” and
“operates at ambient temperatures up to 120F without a loss in system
efficiency.”   Even the Isotherm claims their ASU SP3751 can achieve loads
under 20AH/day.   Now making ice or cooling down warm beer on a really hot
day will likely have higher load demands, but the message is still the
same.  Insulation is cheaper than batteries and lasts a lot longer too.







-
Paul E.

1981 C&C 38 Landfall
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL



http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
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On Oct 14, 2017, at 2:02 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:



Lets consider some hypothetical numbers based on the rep's info.  If a 100w
panel were %100 effective and operated for 8 hours, you would get 800w-hrs
of power per day.  800w divided by 12v = 67amp-hrs.  67 divided by 24hrs =
2.8amps current draw on average.

That kinda gives you a ball park for what type of loads you'll be facing.
Round up to 5amps/hr if you like for margin.  5 *24=120AHr per day.

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All contributions are greatly appreciated!
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The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
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