Wrecking batteries with a big alternator is why you need a good regulator. If 
you are counting on the alternator itself to just be unable to do any damage 
because it can’t, you are taking a big risk or and have a very suboptimal 
charging setup.
For an extreme example, given a decent regulator, a 1000 amp alternator should 
do no harm and you can very much destroy batteries with a 35 amp alternator. I 
once worked on a boat whose genset had a 35 amp alternator set to 16 volts. The 
owner was buying several batteries a year and didn’t know why.

Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2017 2:50 PM
To: C&C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Engine, now what size alternator

Not only will they not absorb the charge quickly enough, exceeding the charge 
rate will boil the batteries more than staying within the charging guidelines.  
An alternator that is too big for the bank will seriously risk damaging the 
batteries.

Larger alternators under full load will also strain the v-belt.  Additional 
tention will need to be applied to prevent the belt from slipping.  The 
additional tension puts additional side loads on the crankshaft end bearing.

Lets also remember that full output is only achieved under full RPM.  Many 
people enjoy the idea of idling along or running the engine for a few hours in 
neutral.  Not only does this not achieve the full rated output of the 
alternator but it can also coke up the exhaust elbow and glaze the cylinders.  
Diesel engines should be run at 80% as often as possible and for as long as 
possible.

Josh

On Oct 16, 2017 2:19 PM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
With a small battery bank you will not benefit from the larger alternator.  The 
batteries can't absorb a charge that quickly.

Joel

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On Mon, Oct 16, 2017 at 1:25 PM, David via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Let me expound a bit on alternators and engine size.   When replaced my dumb 
alternator with a Balmar set-up (alternator, smart Charger, digital Duo etc ) 
on my 33 hp diesel Balmar recommended no more than the 80 amp because of the 
loss of HP which I could ill afford.



If you have HP to spare...go for it.   If not reconsider.





1981 40-2

David F. Risch

(401) 419-4650<tel:(401)%20419-4650> (cell)

________________________________
From: CnC-List 
<cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> on behalf 
of Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2017 12:47 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Engine, now what size alternator

Paul, Thanks for these more accurate "ratings".  It definitely helps to give an 
answer to the question of "what does good look like?"  I have never saught out 
actual ratings for refrigerator loads and I've never gotten a AHr meter 
installed - besides the plethora of variables which make single point AHr usage 
almost impossible to  determine.  It seemed like nobody else had provided a 
frame of reference besides examples of their own setup and I was kinda trying 
to describe a worst case numbers scenario to provide an upper boundary to the 
project.  Your numbers bring further clarity by providing a lower boundary.

You and other listers are absolutely correct that adding insulation is the best 
way to reduce refrigerator AHr load.

Thanks,
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Mon, Oct 16, 2017, 9:20 AM Dreuge via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

If you have a refrigeration load of 120AH/day, don’t waist money on increasing 
battery and charging capacity.

Spend a little cash on better insulation or rebuild your box with more and 
better insulation.   It is not unreasonable to shoot for a refrigeration load 
under 30AH/day.  Just have a look at Wally’s Stella Blue page titled “Marine 
refrigeration and freezer on 22AH/day”(I recall he has a  Frigoboat unit with 
keel cooler).   Technautics claim that their CoolBlue system consumes “24AH/Day 
for a 7 cubic foot fridge/freezer with R-30” and “operates at ambient 
temperatures up to 120F without a loss in system efficiency.”   Even the 
Isotherm claims their ASU SP3751 can achieve loads under 20AH/day.   Now making 
ice or cooling down warm beer on a really hot day will likely have higher load 
demands, but the message is still the same.  Insulation is cheaper than 
batteries and lasts a lot longer too.



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/<https://eur01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fsvjohannarose.blogspot.com%2F&data=02%7C01%7Cdavidrisch75%40msn.com%7C174374313e324a76649608d514b5ae0e%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C636437692893291062&sdata=3Z6nZDYREvjXOkTwuBgdW3OftsiN%2B4KI22XBkKfEUaQ%3D&reserved=0>

On Oct 14, 2017, at 2:02 PM, 
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Lets consider some hypothetical numbers based on the rep's info.  If a 100w
panel were %100 effective and operated for 8 hours, you would get 800w-hrs
of power per day.  800w divided by 12v = 67amp-hrs.  67 divided by 24hrs =
2.8amps current draw on average.

That kinda gives you a ball park for what type of loads you'll be facing.
Round up to 5amps/hr if you like for margin.  5 *24=120AHr per day.
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