I used stainless steel helicoils when reattaching the hood over the
companionway. I think I put a little vaseline on the machine screws, and set
them and thickened epoxy. Works fabulous. I did my grab rails with those little
wood insert things that you referenced, which also worked well in the wood
Regards,
Bill ColemanC&C 39
-------- Original message --------
From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Date: 9/27/17 09:34 (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bruce Whitmore <bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hatch replacement experiences.
Hello all,
I am thinking about a number of similar attachments where I'd really like a
machine screw attachment instead of a wood screw type (which in my opinion
tears up fiberglass and/or whatever you're screwing it into). This way one can
remove the screw multiple times.
So, I came across the idea of a threaded insert like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Z-Threaded-400-3-CR-Stainless-Internal/dp/B002WC8TS4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1506518994&sr=8-3&keywords=stainless+steel+threaded+inserts
If one overdrilled the hole, filled it with thickened epoxy, and put in a
threaded insert, wouldn't that do double duty as far as preventing future core
damage while allowing hatches & such to be removed at will for rebedding in the
future?
Curious as to how this approach would be lacking, Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: CnClist <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Dennis C. <capt...@gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2017 5:50 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hatch replacement experiences.
Dave,
I haven't done exactly what you describe but have done similar work. If it was
me, I'd fill the old holes with thickened epoxy and go with the #12 fasteners.
You didn't say if the new bolt pattern completely or partially overlaid the A&H
hatch. If it matches, overbore and fill.
In fact, if you overbored and filled regardless you'd probably end up with a
strong bond. My thinking is that the deck is only 1/4-3/8 inch or so. So the
fastener is only grabbing that much. If you overbore carefully down to the top
of the headliner and fill with thickened epoxy, you'll have a plug that is
thicker than the original deck. More material for the fastener to grab.
Measure the depth of the hole before you fill so you'll have a good idea of
what length fastener to use.
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA
On Tue, Sep 26, 2017 at 4:17 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
So I’m crowd-sourcing this question that I have. Always good ideas and
experiences here.
I purchased a Lewmar Ocean Hatch 60 (shout-out to Fred Street) last year and am
now getting ready to install it as a replacement for the Atkins-Hoyle hatch
that I buggered up removing it prior to painting the decks. The original hatch
used what are I believe (threw away all the originals like a dope…) #14
stainless steel sheet metal screws screwed into the deck. No through-bolting.
Twenty of those and butyl. Worked pretty well for 30-plus years
The new Lewmar specifies through-bolting the frame, using #12 machine screws
and nuts. Let’s just say that I am really reluctant to run bolts through my
overhead and having to stare at them when lying and looking upwards in the
v-berth.
So, what have those who have replaced their original hatches done?
Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake BayRonin’s Overdue Refit
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