you know, someone on the Tartan list offered an interesting technique.
He said you could drill, overbore, then set a nut, with bolt at the
bottom of the prepped opening. you use a releasing agent to the threads
of the bolt. then you pour in you thickened epoxy. After the epoxy
cures you remove the bolt, countersink the bolt hole and you have a nice
machined attachment completely concealed.
It sounds great in theory. the only tricky part i see is getting the
location almost perfect with so many attachment points.
I think this could be done with some kind of template. maybe some thin
plywood? if you use threaded rod to set the concealed nut. Make the
rods long enough ti stick an inch above the deck, you could then use a
2nd nut, raised a little above the deck as a stop for the template.
Then, you set the nuts with rods (don't forget the releasing agent!),
pour in the thickened epoxy and drop the template over the rods, onto
the nuts and you should have a perfectly spaced bolt pattern...
Danny
On 9/27/2017 7:22 AM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List wrote:
Okay, so I post a question, sign off and go to dinner. Catch a TV show
and roll off to bed. Wake up the next day and see, not surprisingly,
that there are great suggestions and good examples on both sides of
the problem.
Also see that the thread has take a bit of an off-beat turn. Again,
not surprising knowing this list. š
Anyway, Dennis and Tom, thanks. Given that EVERY hole in my deck was
filled with low-densify West
System prior to painting, Iām in good shape replacing the remaining
original Atkins-Hoyle hatch. The new Lewmar has fewer screw-holes so I
will make sure to drill-and-fill on those but I did a good bit of
filling and fairing so the mating surface will be pristine.
I will use the #12 and #14 S.S. screws and butyl per original C&C
installation.
Danny, no, there is no āheadlinerā as I think you mean it. On this
model the deck is molded and a GRP liner glued to the overhead and
then the whole unit bolted to the hull. There are no teak frames
around any ports or hatches.
Gary, Fred and Dave, thanks for the sound advice on not exposing my nutsā¦.
Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Roninās Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/>
On Sep 26, 2017, at 10:31 PM, David Kaseler via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Dave,
I have to confess that I rebed my original hatch to stop a leak and
ended up through bolting it and used acorn nuts. Wish I hadn't. Looks
bad and I do keep hitting my head. Wish I knew of butyl tape when I
did the job.
Dave. Kaseler
SLY
1975 C&C 33
Sent from my iPad
On Sep 26, 2017, at 2:17 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
So Iām crowd-sourcing this question that I have. Always good ideas
and experiences here.
I purchased a Lewmar Ocean Hatch 60 (shout-out to Fred Street) last
year and am now getting ready to install it as a replacement for the
Atkins-Hoyle hatch that I buggered up removing it prior to painting
the decks. The original hatch used what are I believe (threw away
all the originals like a dopeā¦) #14 stainless steel sheet metal
screws screwed into the deck. No through-bolting. Twenty of those
and butyl. Worked pretty well for 30-plus years
The new Lewmar specifies through-bolting the frame, using #12
machine screws and nuts. Letās just say that I am really reluctant
to run bolts through my overhead and having to stare at them when
lying and looking upwards in the v-berth.
So, what have those who have replaced their original hatches done?
Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Roninās Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/>
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you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
_______________________________________________
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
