My mid 70s 38 (which has similar construction to the 37, AFIK) has a wooden frame laminated between the deck and the headliner around the foredeck hatch. That also appears to be true for the cabin top hatch, and was also true for a friends early 80s 29-2.
On both my 38 and the 29-2, the rebuilt or replacement hatch was secured with #12x1” or 1 ¼” oval head screws driven into the wood, using butyl for sealant (3M tape bought at my local auto parts store). On the 38, I reinstalled the A&A hatch after rebuilding it. On the 29-2 we used a current production Lewmar (a low profile 50 series, IIRC) to replace the OEM Superhatch. So in both cases the original holes lined up for the hatch frame being installed Rick Brass Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Godwin via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2017 7:22 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Dave Godwin <dave.god...@me.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List Hatch replacement experiences. Given that EVERY hole in my deck was filled with low-densify West System prior to painting, I’m in good shape replacing the remaining original Atkins-Hoyle hatch. The new Lewmar has fewer screw-holes so I will make sure to drill-and-fill on those but I did a good bit of filling and fairing so the mating surface will be pristine. I will use the #12 and #14 S.S. screws and butyl per original C&C installation. Best, Dave Godwin 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin Reedville - Chesapeake Bay Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/>
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