Joel, don't know where you got the notion that Navtec rod rigging must
be re-headed every 10 years or 10,000 miles.....below is info taken from
a Navtec site......
*"As a general rule, Navtec uses a figure of 40,000 sailing miles as a
time when a thorough inspection should be done. This would include
inspection of all the rod heads and end fittings. If any of the heads
are cracked or worn, the rod should at least be reheaded
**
**One item that Navtec does recommend replacing after 10 years of use or
40,000 miles (whichever comes first) is the turnbuckle screws."
*Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.
*
*
On 2015-06-15 1:22 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:
FWIW, Navtec recommends re-heading every 10 years or 10,000 miles.
Joel
35/3
The Office
On Mon, Jun 15, 2015 at 12:15 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Rod Rigging. Mine is also original and the boat has been
freshwater for all its life except for 4 years. I discussed the
rig with one of the few (And be most accounts: the best) factory
certified Navtec guys in the southeast (Rick Zern) and his advice
was: Have your local guy take a look at it (While it's down if
possible) or you can look at it yourself. Here's what you look
for: No kinks, make sure the tangs (mast attachment ball / socket
joints) are not deformed, can rotate smoothly, and are free of
rust. Same with the eyes / toggles / turnbuckles: free of rust,
smooth turning. If that passes muster, don't worry about it.
As you know, rod riggings are extremely stout and don't really
stretch much at all. If it has been abused, mistreated, or
over-stressed in a storm, the aluminum mast structure around the
tang area will deform, same for the threads on the turnbuckles:
They will get distorted long before the rods or heads get damaged.
Rick told me that being a certfied Navtec rigger he decided to
remove his and have it lab tested. Keep in mind his boat (J-boat)
had been raced hard in salt water for 15-20+ years / his rod
rigging was original. Results after the dye and destructive tests
done: Nothing wrong. In his words: It was a waste of money and
efforts.
His words (Again) if you're about to embark on extended ocean
crossing passages then by all means spend the money to get work
done as insurance. For the rest of us lake and coastal cruisers:
Keep sailing and taking reasonable care of your rig.
Regards,
-Francois
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
From: davepulaski <davepula...@hotmail.com>
To: Jean-Francois J Rivard/Atlanta/IBM@IBMUS,
cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Date: 06/15/2015 11:26 AM
Subject: RE: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thanks for all the info François! Yes I've come to accept that
those stern thru-hulls are in fact above DWL, regardless of what
the painted waterline says. I'm leaning towards not going to
seacocks now, probably will at least replace the old thru-hull
though with a new marelon one while I'm in there. Thanks for the
tip on jacking up the fuel tank!
You're correct - the 2 small lines are for draining the propane
tank compartment under the quadrant panel. I like that the
cockpit doesn't need scuppers!
While I have you - what are your thoughts on the rod rigging on
these boats? AFAIK, she has all her original standing rigging.
Yes she's been only in fresh water so far, but the age still gives
me pause. Have you rerigged yet?
Dave
1990 34+ "Faith Anne"
Sent from my T-Mobile Galaxy Note 2
-------- Original message --------
From: Jean-Francois J Rivard <jfriv...@us.ibm.com
<mailto:jfriv...@us.ibm.com>>
Date: 06/15/2015 10:45 (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: davepula...@hotmail.com <mailto:davepula...@hotmail.com>
Subject: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls
Hi David,
Congrats on getting the 34+. I've owned mine for 3 years and still
think I could not have possibly gotten a better boat for what we
do. The promise is that is gives you plentiful room and comfort
at the marina / anchor and runs like a bat out of he$$ around the
cans.. It does just that.
All your questions are really straightforward.
Exhaust hose: I replaced mine last year, it's not that bad. Your
idea of connecting the old one to the new one is excellent. I
just wrestled my old one out and taped a fiberglass wiring rod to
the new one to pull some / guide it. The trick is to remove all
the aft stateroom cushions then remove the fuel tank access panel
and the wooden blocks that are screwed / wedged-in securing the
fuel tank and find a way to jack-up tank to facilitate threading
the new hose in under it ( I used 2 x 2's) .
The challenge to thread the new hose is to line it up between the
exposed strut bolts. Stick to the original hose construction /
diameter and you'll be fine. It's a bit of a sweaty wrestling
match but you and 1 other guy should be able to knock it out in
less than 1 hour.
"Through-Hulls"
None of what you mentioned is below the waterline at rest. They
get dipped-in some when motoring or sailing in excess of 5 or so
knots but that's nothing that the standard siphon loops can't
handle. The 34+ is the last of the Canadian C&C's and after 35 +
odd years of designing racer cruisers they had it down.. Rob Ball
knew what he was doing.
FYI, all through hulls on mine are Marelon. I close them all
everytime I leave the boat and they works well,
Also, there are no cockpit or deck scuppers on the boat. All
cockpit /deck water simply flows out the stern / swim platform
area in a modern open stern / sport boat style. On my boat
there's a drain for the propane locker, also well designed. No
need to seal / mess with it as propane is heavier than air and
flows down the drain like water with its exit above the waterline
at rest There's no quadrant well. On my boat The rudder shaft
goes up to the quadrant that is mounted on top and flush with the
cockpit sub-floor. All that is easily accessible by simply
removing the triangular fiberglass cover.
Feel free to PM me for more details on how to tune the boat /
other questions of you want.
-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
Subject: Re: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls
Message-ID: <snt152-w7315fc52d9f459dde543fda0...@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
I said "appear" to be below the waterline because the boat's not
in the
water, isn't going in the water anytime soon, and I've never actually
seen one of these in the water :) All four thru-hulls are under the
transom counter and below the boot stripe as well as below the
waterline
as defined by the existing bottom paint, so I have to assume they are
submerged with the boat floating level. Given their location in the
bowels of the stern lazarettes, I know accessing them is a pain
but I'm
paranoid enough that I'd close them when I'm leaving the boat on her
mooring and not returning for a span of days at a time. On second
though, I'd have to leave the two small ones open because those are
scuppers, so no sense in valves on them at all.
Here's a pic of the two port side thru hulls, big one is the
exhaust. 2 more on the stbd side in the same configuration.
So I'm the proud new owner of a '90 34+, and the first project I
bit off was replacement of the exhaust hose from the muffer back,
including the thru-hull.
First off, this is not going to be fun because the hose runs under
the fuel tank and span of the cockpit under the water heater where
it is completely inaccessible. I'm hoping I'll be able to pull the
new hose through by clamping it to the old hose with a
double-ended barb, but it seems like it's an awful tight fit under
the tank. If anyone else has done this job and has any
suggestions, I'm all ears.
Second, the thru-hulls themselves. There are 4 thru-hulls just
under the transom - the exhaust, the two drains for the propane
tank & steering quadrant well, and the bilge pump. All 4 are
plastic mushroom-head thru-hulls, and I want to replace at least
the exhaust thru-hull with a new marelon one. Question: none of
these thru-hulls have seacocks on them, which seems odd (and
unwise) to me because they appear to be below the waterline. What
are your thoughts on putting a marelon ball valve on the new thru
hull while I'm at it? I'm tempted to replace all 4 of them with
new thru-hull and valves. Am I just being paranoid?
Thanks all. I'm thrilled to have this boat and I'm sure I'll be
pestering the heck out of this board!
-Dave
1990 C&C 34+ "Faith Anne"
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--
Joel
301 541 8551
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