I should have clarified that prelubing does not put oil in/on the cylinders it simply pressurizes the oil header and gets it to the bearings. Some of the industrial diesels have nozzels that direct bearing lube oil to the bottom of the cylinders. I believe we all have to rely on splash to lubricate the walls of our engine cylinders. In gasoline engines I am familiar with fogging oil in the intake to coat the walls enough to lubricate the dry cylinder for starting in the spring and prevent corrosion during the winter. I am curious if the practice of putting diesel or oil in the intake isn't attempting to achieve the same thing.
Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk On Nov 29, 2013 4:37 AM, "Josh Muckley" <muckl...@gmail.com> wrote: > I can't speek for putting diesel in the air intake but the practice of > prelubing is one that is supported and performed by most manufacturers of > large industrial diesels (locomotive and 4160v generators). Amsoil has > some literature regarding the importance of prelube describing how most of > the engine wear during the life of a car engine occurs during "dry > starts". Convieniently they also sell a prelube pump that cycles for 10 > seconds prior to engine start. This is coincidentally the same amount of > time the 4kv EDGs I use at work prelube during non-emergency starts. > > If I have two people then I use the decompression levers while they roll > the engine a few times prior to start. If it is just me then I will pull > and hold the engine stop plunger while rolling the engine. As advised > recently one needs to be conscientious not to roll it too long or sea water > can back up in the exhaust and damage the engine. > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > On Nov 29, 2013 4:13 AM, "Rich Knowles" <r...@sailpower.ca> wrote: > >> Responding to the need to run the engine up to temperature after changing >> the oil, I cannot see any reasonable need to do that. Running the engine >> and getting the oil up to temperature before pumping it out of the engine >> will help remove as much condensation and water that may be in the oil as >> possible and also pick up and suspend any crap that has settled to the >> bottom of the pan since the last run. >> >> Once the new oil is installed, running the engine for a minute or two >> will ensure that the various bearing surfaces have the new oil in them for >> the winter with a minimum of foreign substances such as water present. I >> see no need to run the engine for any significant length of time or to get >> the oil up to operating temperature. >> >> Also, Ken said earlier "In the spring, I put about a tablespoonful of >> fresh diesel oil into the air intake and turn the engine over 3 or 4 times >> without starting it. Can anyone on the list who has more engineering >> knowledge tell me why this might not be a good idea?" I'm not sure what the >> diesel fuel in the air intake will do other than upset the air fuel balance >> needed for combustion. The injectors should be operational and capable of >> providing enough fuel to start the engine. The idea of turning the engine >> over a few times without starting it seems like a good one as that will get >> the lubricating oil into the various bearings before they are put under >> load for the first time. >> >> Rich Knowles >> INDIGO LF38 >> Halifax, NS. >> >> >> On Nov 27, 2013, at 5:52 AM, dwight <dwight...@gmail.com> wrote: >> >> If you don’t run the engine after the oil change the new oil will just >> sit in the sump all winter long…best to give her a run and get the new >> stuff where it’s needed…how long you have to run to achieve that I am not >> sure but I change oil for the winter storage before my last trip to the >> marina, for me that’s about a 20 minute run under power. >> >> ------------------------------ >> *From:* CnC-List >> [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com<cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> >> ] *On Behalf Of *Indigo >> *Sent:* November 26, 2013 11:59 PM >> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Winterizing >> >> I understand the need to get the temperature up in order to get the old >> oil out, but why do I need to run it up to temp with the new oil? I have >> just been turning the engine over for a minute or less to get the oil >> circulated. (Engine block is still warm- but certainly not up to temp >> >> >> -- >> Jonathan >> Indigo C&C 35III >> SOUTHPORT CT >> >> >> On Nov 26, 2013, at 14:47, dwight veinot <dwight...@gmail.com> wrote: >> >> Chuck >> Yes warm the oil you want to change out before draining the sump but it >> is equally important to run the engine up to temp for a while on the new oil >> >> Dwight Veinot >> Alianna >> C&C 35 MKII >> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS >> >> >> On Thu, Nov 21, 2013 at 11:16 PM, Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net> wrote: >> Yeah Dwight, >> I guess you are right. I didn't have to but I like to warm up the engine >> oil before draining that, so I've always run the engine to temperature >> before winterizing. >> I draw in the pink stuff, then hand pump the oil from the crancase. I >> have a routine; ice box, foot pump that into the sink, do the second sink, >> then the head, then last is the bilge and the two elec bilge pumps and the >> manual bilge pump. This year I captured most of the antifreeze from the >> pumps and will use again next year. >> >> >> Chuck >> *Resolute* >> 1990 C&C 34R >> Atlantic City, NJ >> ------------------------------ >> *From: *"dwight veinot" <dwight...@gmail.com> >> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> *Sent: *Thursday, November 21, 2013 8:07:49 AM >> >> >> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Winterizing >> >> Chuck >> If I remember you have a Universal M4-30. Is yours your water cooled and >> that is why you got the engine up to 190, to make sure the thermostat >> opened. No need to do that if your engine has a heat exchanger like mine >> does >> >> Dwight Veinot >> Alianna >> C&C 35 MKII >> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS >> >> >> On Wed, Nov 20, 2013 at 10:50 PM, Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net> wrote: >> I tried the Toronto Bucket Method today. Nice to have that option. It >> works. It is environmentally friendly since it captures antifreeze >> escaping the exhaust. >> >> My marina hauled my boat today, but the water was turned off everywhere >> because of the risk of freezeup for the last few weeks. It works. It is >> environmentally friendly since it captures antifreeze escaping the exhaust. >> But it was hard to get the engine to draw from the bucket until I primed >> the 15' hose w antifreeze using a funnel. Had to run for about twenty >> minutes to get the temp up to 190, to be sure the thermostat was open. I >> started w 4 1/2 gallons of pink RV antifreeze. The engine sucked up about >> 1 1/2 gallons. Used the rest to winterize the ice box drain, foot pump, >> sink traps, and bilge pumps. >> >> Love the list for new ideas! >> >> >> Chuck >> *Resolute* >> 1990 C&C 34R >> Atlantic City, NJ >> ------------------------------ >> *From: *"dwight veinot" <dwight...@gmail.com> >> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> *Sent: *Wednesday, November 20, 2013 8:26:30 AM >> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Winterizing >> >> >> >> Another 35 MKII owner on the list...only 147 of that design ever built, >> they are senior citizens by some standards but many are still active and >> bringing lots of sailing pleasure to their owners, >> There's no reason to change a good practice, 21 years is way long enough >> to prove it's a good one >> >> Dwight Veinot >> Alianna >> C&C 35 MKII >> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS >> >> >> On Tue, Nov 19, 2013 at 10:16 AM, Ken Rodmell <moo...@sympatico.ca> >> wrote: >> >> On my 35 Mk II, I’ve been using the same system for 21 years. It can get >> very cold up here in Toronto and I’ve had no problems. >> >> I hang a bucket containing about a gallon of the antifreeze mix from the >> stern rail directly below the exhaust pipe,. A hose is led from the bucket >> through the cockpit to the water intake on the Perkins 4-108 engine. It is >> connected by a plastic elbow. >> >> I run the engine until it reaches operating temperature which takes a few >> minutes. I use a tester 2 or three times to check the water/anti freeze mix >> as there is always some water left in the system and I might have to add >> more anti freeze to bring it up to specs. >> >> If my winter cover is already on, I open it up while the engine is >> running and make sure I have lots of ventilation as some exhaust gasses may >> reach the cockpit. >> >> I shut off the engine, Take the hose off, then remove the impeller and >> store it in vegetable oil. >> >> In the spring, I put about a tablespoonful of fresh diesel oil into the >> air intake and turn the engine over 3 or 4 times without starting it. Can >> anyone on the list who has more engineering knowledge tell me why this >> might not be a good idea? >> >> Thanks in advance for your comments. >> >> Ken Rodmell >> Ward’s Island, Toronto >> Toronto >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> >>
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