Where did you find the Marvel Mystery oil.Canadian Tire used to have it but
no longer

 

  _____  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan
Plavsa
Sent: November 27, 2013 10:12 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing

 

I remove my t-stat, then I run anti-freeze through the motor by
disconnecting the intake hose from the seacock and shoving it in the
antifreeze bottle. I put a huge bucket under the exhaust and when
anti-freeze starts coming out of the exhaust I'm done. No messing around
running the motor and complicated hose runs. Mine is a raw water cooled A4.
I put a few drops of marvel mystery oil in each spark plug hole and turn the
engine over manually a few times to lubricate the valves and I'm done. In
the spring I reverse the process and pull freshwater through the motor and
catch the anti-freeze in the same bucket before launch.

 

Steve

Suhana, C&C 32

Toronto

 

On Wed, Nov 27, 2013 at 4:52 AM, dwight <dwight...@gmail.com> wrote:

If you don't run the engine after the oil change the new oil will just sit
in the sump all winter long.best to give her a run and get the new stuff
where it's needed.how long you have to run to achieve that I am not sure but
I change oil for the winter storage before my last trip to the marina, for
me that's about a 20 minute run under power.

 

  _____  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Indigo
Sent: November 26, 2013 11:59 PM


To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing

 

I understand the need to get the temperature up in order to get the old oil
out, but why do I need to run it up to temp with the new oil?  I have just
been turning the engine over for a minute or less to get the oil circulated.
(Engine block is still warm- but certainly not up to temp

 

--

Jonathan

Indigo C&C 35III

SOUTHPORT CT


On Nov 26, 2013, at 14:47, dwight veinot <dwight...@gmail.com> wrote:

Chuck

Yes warm the oil you want to change out before draining the sump but it is
equally important to run the engine up to temp for a while on the new oil




Dwight Veinot

Alianna 
C&C 35 MKII

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

On Thu, Nov 21, 2013 at 11:16 PM, Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net> wrote:

Yeah Dwight,
I guess you are right.  I didn't have to but I like to warm up the engine
oil before draining that, so I've always run the engine to temperature
before winterizing.  
I draw in the pink stuff, then hand pump the oil from the crancase.  I have
a routine; ice box, foot pump that into the sink, do the second sink, then
the head, then last is the bilge and the two elec bilge pumps and the manual
bilge pump.  This year I captured most of the antifreeze from the pumps and
will use again next year.     

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ


  _____  


From: "dwight veinot" <dwight...@gmail.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Sent: Thursday, November 21, 2013 8:07:49 AM


Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing

Chuck

If I remember you have a Universal M4-30.  Is yours your water cooled and
that is why you got the engine up to 190, to make sure the thermostat
opened.  No need to do that if your engine has a heat exchanger like mine
does




Dwight Veinot

Alianna 
C&C 35 MKII

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

On Wed, Nov 20, 2013 at 10:50 PM, Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net> wrote:

I tried the Toronto Bucket Method today.  Nice to have that option.  It
works.  It is environmentally friendly since it captures antifreeze escaping
the exhaust.   

My marina hauled my boat today, but the water was turned off everywhere
because of the risk of freezeup for the last few weeks.   It works.  It is
environmentally friendly since it captures antifreeze escaping the exhaust.
But it was hard to get the engine to draw from the bucket until I primed the
15' hose w antifreeze using a funnel.   Had to run for about twenty minutes
to get the temp up to 190, to be sure the thermostat was open.  I started w
4 1/2 gallons of pink RV antifreeze.  The engine sucked up about 1 1/2
gallons.  Used the rest to winterize the ice box drain, foot pump, sink
traps, and bilge pumps.

Love the list for new ideas!

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ


  _____  


From: "dwight veinot" <dwight...@gmail.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 20, 2013 8:26:30 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing

 

Another 35 MKII owner on the list...only 147 of that design ever built, they
are senior citizens by some standards but many are still active and bringing
lots of sailing pleasure to their owners, 

There's no reason to change a good practice, 21 years is way long enough to
prove it's a good one




Dwight Veinot

Alianna 
C&C 35 MKII

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

On Tue, Nov 19, 2013 at 10:16 AM, Ken Rodmell <moo...@sympatico.ca> wrote:

On my 35 Mk II, I've been using the same system for 21 years. It can get
very cold up here in Toronto and I've had no problems.

I hang a bucket containing about a gallon of the antifreeze mix from the
stern rail directly below the exhaust pipe,. A hose is led from the bucket
through the cockpit to the water intake on the Perkins 4-108 engine. It is
connected by a plastic elbow. 

I run the engine until it reaches operating temperature which takes a few
minutes. I use a tester 2 or three times to check the water/anti freeze mix
as there is always some water left in the system and I might have to add
more anti freeze to bring it up to specs.

If my winter cover is already on, I open it up while the engine is running
and make sure I have lots of ventilation as some exhaust gasses may reach
the cockpit.

I shut off the engine, Take the hose off, then remove the impeller and store
it in vegetable oil. 

In the spring, I put about a tablespoonful of fresh diesel oil into the air
intake and turn the engine over 3 or 4 times without starting it. Can anyone
on the list who has more engineering knowledge tell me why this might not be
a good idea? 

Thanks in advance for your comments.

Ken Rodmell
Ward's Island, Toronto
Toronto 


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