Responding to the need to run the engine up to temperature after changing the 
oil, I cannot see any reasonable need to do that. Running the engine and 
getting the oil up to temperature before pumping it out of the engine will help 
remove as much condensation and water that may be in the oil as possible and 
also pick up and suspend any crap that has settled to the bottom of the pan 
since the last run.

Once the new oil is installed, running the engine for a minute or two will 
ensure that the various bearing surfaces have the new oil in them for the 
winter with a minimum of foreign substances such as water present. I see no 
need to run the engine for any significant length of time or to get the oil up 
to operating temperature.

Also, Ken said earlier "In the spring, I put about a tablespoonful of fresh 
diesel oil into the air intake and turn the engine over 3 or 4 times without 
starting it. Can anyone on the list who has more engineering knowledge tell me 
why this might not be a good idea?" I'm not sure what the diesel fuel in the 
air intake will do other than upset the air fuel balance needed for combustion. 
The injectors should be operational and capable of providing enough fuel to 
start the engine. The idea of turning the engine over a few times without 
starting it seems like a good one as that will get the lubricating oil into the 
various bearings before they are put under load for the first time.

Rich Knowles
INDIGO LF38
Halifax, NS.


On Nov 27, 2013, at 5:52 AM, dwight <dwight...@gmail.com> wrote:

If you don’t run the engine after the oil change the new oil will just sit in 
the sump all winter long…best to give her a run and get the new stuff where 
it’s needed…how long you have to run to achieve that I am not sure but I change 
oil for the winter storage before my last trip to the marina, for me that’s 
about a 20 minute run under power.
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Indigo
Sent: November 26, 2013 11:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing
 
I understand the need to get the temperature up in order to get the old oil 
out, but why do I need to run it up to temp with the new oil?  I have just been 
turning the engine over for a minute or less to get the oil circulated. (Engine 
block is still warm- but certainly not up to temp
 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

On Nov 26, 2013, at 14:47, dwight veinot <dwight...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Chuck
> 
> Yes warm the oil you want to change out before draining the sump but it is 
> equally important to run the engine up to temp for a while on the new oil
> 
> Dwight Veinot
> Alianna 
> C&C 35 MKII
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>  
> 
> On Thu, Nov 21, 2013 at 11:16 PM, Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net> wrote:
> Yeah Dwight,
> I guess you are right.  I didn't have to but I like to warm up the engine oil 
> before draining that, so I've always run the engine to temperature before 
> winterizing.  
> I draw in the pink stuff, then hand pump the oil from the crancase.  I have a 
> routine; ice box, foot pump that into the sink, do the second sink, then the 
> head, then last is the bilge and the two elec bilge pumps and the manual 
> bilge pump.  This year I captured most of the antifreeze from the pumps and 
> will use again next year.    
>  
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Atlantic City, NJ
> From: "dwight veinot" <dwight...@gmail.com>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Sent: Thursday, November 21, 2013 8:07:49 AM
> 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing
> 
> Chuck
> 
> If I remember you have a Universal M4-30.  Is yours your water cooled and 
> that is why you got the engine up to 190, to make sure the thermostat opened. 
>  No need to do that if your engine has a heat exchanger like mine does
> 
> Dwight Veinot
> Alianna 
> C&C 35 MKII
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>  
> 
> On Wed, Nov 20, 2013 at 10:50 PM, Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net> wrote:
> I tried the Toronto Bucket Method today.  Nice to have that option.  It 
> works.  It is environmentally friendly since it captures antifreeze escaping 
> the exhaust.   
> 
> My marina hauled my boat today, but the water was turned off everywhere 
> because of the risk of freezeup for the last few weeks.   It works.  It is 
> environmentally friendly since it captures antifreeze escaping the exhaust.   
> But it was hard to get the engine to draw from the bucket until I primed the 
> 15' hose w antifreeze using a funnel.   Had to run for about twenty minutes 
> to get the temp up to 190, to be sure the thermostat was open.  I started w 4 
> 1/2 gallons of pink RV antifreeze.  The engine sucked up about 1 1/2 gallons. 
>  Used the rest to winterize the ice box drain, foot pump, sink traps, and 
> bilge pumps.
> 
> Love the list for new ideas!
>  
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Atlantic City, NJ
> From: "dwight veinot" <dwight...@gmail.com>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Sent: Wednesday, November 20, 2013 8:26:30 AM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing
>  
> 
> Another 35 MKII owner on the list...only 147 of that design ever built, they 
> are senior citizens by some standards but many are still active and bringing 
> lots of sailing pleasure to their owners,
> 
> There's no reason to change a good practice, 21 years is way long enough to 
> prove it's a good one
> 
> Dwight Veinot
> Alianna 
> C&C 35 MKII
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>  
> 
> On Tue, Nov 19, 2013 at 10:16 AM, Ken Rodmell <moo...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> On my 35 Mk II, I’ve been using the same system for 21 years. It can get very 
> cold up here in Toronto and I’ve had no problems.
> 
> I hang a bucket containing about a gallon of the antifreeze mix from the 
> stern rail directly below the exhaust pipe,. A hose is led from the bucket 
> through the cockpit to the water intake on the Perkins 4-108 engine. It is 
> connected by a plastic elbow. 
> 
> I run the engine until it reaches operating temperature which takes a few 
> minutes. I use a tester 2 or three times to check the water/anti freeze mix 
> as there is always some water left in the system and I might have to add more 
> anti freeze to bring it up to specs.
> 
> If my winter cover is already on, I open it up while the engine is running 
> and make sure I have lots of ventilation as some exhaust gasses may reach the 
> cockpit.
> 
> I shut off the engine, Take the hose off, then remove the impeller and store 
> it in vegetable oil. 
> 
> In the spring, I put about a tablespoonful of fresh diesel oil into the air 
> intake and turn the engine over 3 or 4 times without starting it. Can anyone 
> on the list who has more engineering knowledge tell me why this might not be 
> a good idea? 
> 
> Thanks in advance for your comments.
> 
> Ken Rodmell
> Ward’s Island, Toronto
> Toronto
> 

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