HI Josh I would not recommend leaving the engine / exhaust dry. The inside of the engine will rust and cause increased wear. I always stored with plumbing in the engine. I would drain the block/muffler. Then run the antifreeze through it. I would do this twice. Never Had any problems. MIke
From: Josh Muckley
Sent: Tuesday, November 19, 2013 7:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing
I have a fresh water cooled Yanmar. Has any body considered blowing the lines
clear? I actually added antifreeze last year and then blew it out with a
shop-vac. I guess I should have kinda done it the other way around. I could
have probably blown it dry and then chased it with half a gallon (or less) of
antifreeze. I have an RV friend that says he catches the antifreeze from the
sinks and reuses it every year. Any thoughts on blowing/leaving all the boat
systems dry?
Anybody stay in the water through the winter? I was thinking that the water
heater might keep the cabin above freezing. BTW I'm in the Chesapeake Bay.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Nov 19, 2013 7:13 PM, "dwight veinot" <dwight...@gmail.com> wrote:
David
I can't remember if your engine is raw water cooled or not. If it is raw
water cooled you have to get it hot enough for the thermostat to open in order
to get the antifreeze mix around the block.
If its not raw water cooled then just a run through the pump, heat exchanger
and exhaust will do the trick provided your engine coolant mixture in the block
and tank is such that it won't freeze, again a 50/50 mix is about right for
that. I always check the freezing point of my engine coolant before winter
storage with a little float gage just to make sure.
In either case, your muffler should be protected and not require draining and
if your pump impellor is surrouned by the antifreeze mixture I think the
ethylene glycol is just as good as vegetable oil: I use that same mixture to
winterize my electric marine toilet too.
It's about an hour of frustrating work to remove the impellor from my
Sherwood pump, that's another reason why I have not changed it in the last 5
years.
Dwight Veinot
Alianna
C&C 35 MKII
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
On Tue, Nov 19, 2013 at 7:19 PM, David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com> wrote:
I wanted to report back on my winterizing efforts last weekend. I went
ahead with my plan and purchased 15’ of 5/8” tygon tubing and a funnel. I
pushed that into the intake port on the outside of the hull and then ran it up
to the deck. There I prefilled the tubuing iwth the funnel and then put the
end into a bucket with 2 gallons of antifreeze. I then started up the engine
and watched as it sucked the antifeeze through the engine. It leaked a bit
around the intake port, but not enough to matter. I am very happy with this
procedure since I can do it myself and I am on deck throughout the entire
process watching the engine temp and fluid levels and does not require me to
add a T to the intake port.
My only concern now is that some info I read indicated the muffler should
be drained. I have no idea how to do that. I presume the muffler is the large
black cylinder behind the engine. I can see no drain port on any visible side.
Dave
.
David Knecht
Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT
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