David I have the Sherwood pump which has an impellor with 16 blades (I think 16). Three bolts hold the front cover on but the nuts for these are aft facing the engine so it's a bit difficult to get at them. First spread something in the bilge, to catch bits that may escape your fingers. The cover will pry off with a knife once the nuts are removed. You have to gently pull the old impellor off the shaft without pulling the drive shaft out, so push in or the saft while pulling out on the impellor. The blades should be bend at that time to conform to the housing and direction of rotation and try to install your new impellor so it looks the same. the impellor is held with a small key, be careful not to lose that when the impellor comes off the sahft. I greased my new impellor blades with a bit of vasoline before I installed it 5 years ago. Use a new "o" ring seal which should come with the impellor kit and save the old impellor for an emergency spare.
Dwight Veinot Alianna C&C 35 MKII Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS On Wed, Nov 20, 2013 at 10:48 AM, David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com>wrote: > Hi Dwight- > On Nov 19, 2013, at 7:13 PM, dwight veinot <dwight...@gmail.com> wrote: > > David > > I can't remember if your engine is raw water cooled or not. If it is raw > water cooled you have to get it hot enough for the thermostat to open in > order to get the antifreeze mix around the block. > > It is fresh water cooled. > > > In either case, your muffler should be protected and not require draining > and if your pump impellor is surrouned by the antifreeze mixture I think > the ethylene glycol is just as good as vegetable oil: I use that same > mixture to winterize my electric marine toilet too. > > I was not too worried but have always wondered how you drain a muffler. > > > It's about an hour of frustrating work to remove the impellor from my > Sherwood pump, that's another reason why I have not changed it in the last > 5 years. > > I took mine apart last weekend and spent a few minutes trying to get the > impeller off and gave up for lack of time. A number of the blades were > somewhat bent so I thought it was worth replacing. So how do you get it > off? > Dave > > > > > Dwight Veinot > Alianna > C&C 35 MKII > Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS > > > On Tue, Nov 19, 2013 at 7:19 PM, David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com>wrote: > >> I wanted to report back on my winterizing efforts last weekend. I went >> ahead with my plan and purchased 15’ of 5/8” tygon tubing and a funnel. I >> pushed that into the intake port on the outside of the hull and then ran >> it up to the deck. There I prefilled the tubuing iwth the funnel and then >> put the end into a bucket with 2 gallons of antifreeze. I then started up >> the engine and watched as it sucked the antifeeze through the engine. It >> leaked a bit around the intake port, but not enough to matter. I am very >> happy with this procedure since I can do it myself and I am on deck >> throughout the entire process watching the engine temp and fluid levels and >> does not require me to add a T to the intake port. >> My only concern now is that some info I read indicated the muffler should >> be drained. I have no idea how to do that. I presume the muffler is the >> large black cylinder behind the engine. I can see no drain port on any >> visible side. Dave >> . >> >> >> David Knecht >> Aries >> 1990 C&C 34+ >> New London, CT >> >> <pastedGraphic.tiff> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > > David Knecht, Ph.D. > Professor and Head of Microscopy Facility > Department of Molecular and Cell Biology > U-3125 > 91 N. Eagleville Rd. > University of Connecticut > Storrs, CT 06269 > 860-486-2200 > 860-486-4331 (fax) > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > >
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