Is the water heater in the cabin? If you lose power you could have a problem. I'd drain it.
Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Tuesday, November 19, 2013, Josh Muckley wrote: > I have a fresh water cooled Yanmar. Has any body considered blowing the > lines clear? I actually added antifreeze last year and then blew it out > with a shop-vac. I guess I should have kinda done it the other way > around. I could have probably blown it dry and then chased it with half a > gallon (or less) of antifreeze. I have an RV friend that says he catches > the antifreeze from the sinks and reuses it every year. Any thoughts on > blowing/leaving all the boat systems dry? > > Anybody stay in the water through the winter? I was thinking that the > water heater might keep the cabin above freezing. BTW I'm in the > Chesapeake Bay. > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C&C 37+ > Solomons, MD > On Nov 19, 2013 7:13 PM, "dwight veinot" > <dwight...@gmail.com<javascript:_e({}, 'cvml', 'dwight...@gmail.com');>> > wrote: > >> David >> >> I can't remember if your engine is raw water cooled or not. If it is raw >> water cooled you have to get it hot enough for the thermostat to open in >> order to get the antifreeze mix around the block. >> >> If its not raw water cooled then just a run through the pump, heat >> exchanger and exhaust will do the trick provided your engine coolant >> mixture in the block and tank is such that it won't freeze, again a 50/50 >> mix is about right for that. I always check the freezing point of my >> engine coolant before winter storage with a little float gage just to make >> sure. >> >> In either case, your muffler should be protected and not require draining >> and if your pump impellor is surrouned by the antifreeze mixture I think >> the ethylene glycol is just as good as vegetable oil: I use that same >> mixture to winterize my electric marine toilet too. >> >> It's about an hour of frustrating work to remove the impellor from my >> Sherwood pump, that's another reason why I have not changed it in the last >> 5 years. >> >> >> >> Dwight Veinot >> Alianna >> C&C 35 MKII >> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS >> >> >> On Tue, Nov 19, 2013 at 7:19 PM, David Knecht >> <davidakne...@gmail.com<javascript:_e({}, 'cvml', 'davidakne...@gmail.com');> >> > wrote: >> >>> I wanted to report back on my winterizing efforts last weekend. I went >>> ahead with my plan and purchased 15’ of 5/8” tygon tubing and a funnel. I >>> pushed that into the intake port on the outside of the hull and then ran >>> it up to the deck. There I prefilled the tubuing iwth the funnel and then >>> put the end into a bucket with 2 gallons of antifreeze. I then started up >>> the engine and watched as it sucked the antifeeze through the engine. It >>> leaked a bit around the intake port, but not enough to matter. I am very >>> happy with this procedure since I can do it myself and I am on deck >>> throughout the entire process watching the engine temp and fluid levels and >>> does not require me to add a T to the intake port. >>> My only concern now is that some info I read indicated the muffler >>> should be drained. I have no idea how to do that. I presume the muffler >>> is the large black cylinder behind the engine. I can see no drain port on >>> any visible side. Dave >>> . >>> >>> >>> David Knecht >>> Aries >>> 1990 C&C 34+ >>> New London, CT >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com <javascript:_e({}, 'cvml', >>> 'CnC-List@cnc-list.com');> >>> >>> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com <javascript:_e({}, 'cvml', >> 'CnC-List@cnc-list.com');> >> >> -- Joel 301 541 8551
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