Josh, if you are planning on leaving the boat in the water, I suggest you 
winterize everything just as if you were hauling her for the winter. Murphy 
lurks. The power usually goes off when the heat is most needed. 

Rich

> On Nov 19, 2013, at 21:07, Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Water heater is under the sink and during the sailing season always warms the 
> cabinet under the sink quite a bit.
> 
> Josh
> 
>> On Nov 19, 2013 7:52 PM, "Joel Aronson" <joel.aron...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> Is the water heater in the cabin?  
>> If you lose power you could have a problem. I'd drain it. 
>> 
>> Joel
>> 35/3
>> Annapolis
>> 
>>> On Tuesday, November 19, 2013, Josh Muckley wrote:
>>> I have a fresh water cooled Yanmar.  Has any body considered blowing the 
>>> lines clear?  I actually added antifreeze last year and then blew it out 
>>> with a shop-vac.  I guess I should have kinda done it the other way around. 
>>>  I could have probably blown it dry and then chased it with half a gallon 
>>> (or less) of antifreeze.   I have an RV friend that says he catches the 
>>> antifreeze from the sinks and reuses it every year.  Any thoughts on 
>>> blowing/leaving all the boat systems dry?
>>> 
>>> Anybody stay in the water through the winter?  I was thinking that the 
>>> water heater might keep the cabin above freezing.  BTW I'm in the 
>>> Chesapeake Bay.
>>> 
>>> Josh Muckley
>>> S/V Sea Hawk
>>> 1989 C&C 37+
>>> Solomons, MD
>>> 
>>>> On Nov 19, 2013 7:13 PM, "dwight veinot" <dwight...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>> David
>>>> 
>>>> I can't remember if your engine is raw water cooled or not.  If it is raw 
>>>> water cooled you have to get it hot enough for the thermostat to open in 
>>>> order to get the antifreeze mix around the block.
>>>> 
>>>> If its not raw water cooled then just a run through the pump, heat 
>>>> exchanger and exhaust will do the trick provided your engine coolant 
>>>> mixture in the block and tank is such that it won't freeze, again a 50/50 
>>>> mix is about right for that.  I always check the freezing point of my 
>>>> engine coolant before winter storage with a little float gage just to make 
>>>> sure.
>>>> 
>>>> In either case, your muffler should be protected and not require draining 
>>>> and if your pump impellor is surrouned by the antifreeze mixture I think 
>>>> the ethylene glycol is just as good as vegetable oil: I use that same 
>>>> mixture to winterize my electric marine toilet too.
>>>> 
>>>> It's about an hour of frustrating work to remove the impellor from my 
>>>> Sherwood pump, that's another reason why I have not changed it in the last 
>>>> 5 years.
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Dwight Veinot
>>>> Alianna 
>>>> C&C 35 MKII
>>>> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>>> On Tue, Nov 19, 2013 at 7:19 PM, David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com> 
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>> I wanted to report back on my winterizing efforts last weekend.  I went 
>>>>> ahead with my plan and purchased 15’ of 5/8” tygon tubing and a funnel.  
>>>>> I pushed that into the intake port on the outside of the hull and  then 
>>>>> ran it up to the deck.  There I prefilled the tubuing iwth the funnel and 
>>>>> then put the end into a bucket with 2 gallons of antifreeze.  I then 
>>>>> started up the engine and watched as it sucked the antifeeze through the 
>>>>> engine.  It leaked a bit around the intake port, but not enough to 
>>>>> matter.  I am very happy with this procedure since I can do it myself and 
>>>>> I am on deck throughout the entire process watching the engine temp and 
>>>>> fluid levels and does not require me to add a T to the intake port.  
>>>>> My only concern now is that some info I read indicated the muffler should 
>>>>> be drained.  I have no idea how to do that.  I presume the muffler is the 
>>>>> large black cylinder behind the engine.  I can see no drain port on any 
>>>>> visible side.  Dave
>>>>> .  
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> David Knecht
>>>>> Aries
>>>>> 1990 C&C 34+
>>>>> New London, CT
>>>>> 
>>>>> <pastedGraphic.tiff>
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
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>> 
>> -- 
>> Joel 
>> 301 541 8551
>> 
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