Dennis, I just went through the exercise of replacing the washers and noticed that there wasn't more than 1/4" room for a washer between the nut and cockpit sole, so where would you get the room to fit 1/2" under there?
-----Original Message----- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com Sent: November-13-13 11:49 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 94, Issue 41 Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to cnc-list@cnc-list.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com You can reach the person managing the list at cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: CS 30 PHRF rating - Was: New boat - CS30 (McNamee, Michael) 2. Re: Rudder bearing (Dennis C.) 3. Winter sailing (Alex Giannelia) 4. Re: Rudder bearing (djhaug...@juno.com) 5. Re: Rudder bearing (Jim Watts) 6. Re: Neverwet (Ken Heaton) 7. Re: Rudder bearing (Joel Aronson) 8. Re: Rudder bearing (djhaug...@juno.com) 9. Re: Rudder bearing (Wally Bryant) 10. Re: Rudder bearing (djhaug...@juno.com) 11. Re: Rudder bearing (Jim Watts) 12. And the Baja Haha hits town... (Wally Bryant) 13. Re: And the Baja Haha hits town... (Rich Knowles) 14. bleeding fuel lines after filter change on M4-30 (David Knecht) 15. Re: bleeding fuel lines after filter change on M4-30 (Wally Bryant) 16. Re: bleeding fuel lines after filter change on M4-30 (dwight veinot) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2013 17:08:44 +0000 From: "McNamee, Michael" <michael.mcna...@itron.com> To: "w...@wbryant.com" <w...@wbryant.com>, "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List CS 30 PHRF rating - Was: New boat - CS30 Message-ID: <1ef6be64e9fb43448bc7f6966993f...@dm2pr04mb429.namprd04.prod.outlook.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Sounds like the normal aging process to me... :-). Mike -----Original Message----- From: Wally Bryant [mailto:w...@wbryant.com] Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2013 8:24 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List CS 30 PHRF rating - Was: New boat - CS30 Joe wrote: > Every time this comes up we say we handicap BOATS, not PEOPLE. Now > back in the day <snip> I think Kurt Vonnegut wrote a story about handicapping people in order to make everyone equal. Perhaps it would work for sailboat racing. Say, for every 2 years someone has been racing he or she would have to put a jumping jack in each shoe. And after five years of racing the crew would need to wear ear plugs. After ten years of experience everyone on board would need to swap glasses. Wal ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2013 09:50:49 -0800 (PST) From: "Dennis C." <capt...@yahoo.com> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing Message-ID: <1384278649.95138.yahoomail...@web121904.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I had a new upper rudder bearing made for Touche' from 1/2 inch thick Delrin.? Any decent machinist should be able to do it.? The next one I have made will be from 1 inch or 2 pieces of 1/2 inch to increase the bearing surface. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA >________________________________ > From: Jim Watts <paradigmat...@gmail.com> >To: 1 CnC List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >Sent: Monday, November 11, 2013 4:38 PM >Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing > > > >Those bearing discs are probably Delrin, aka Acetal. I think Dennis C. and/or >Joe D.B. scored some made from PEEK or some such...you can make them yourself >from sheet stock or have a machine shop mill them out. > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20131112/93db1438/attachment-0001.html> ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2013 12:58:34 -0500 From: Alex Giannelia <a...@airsensing.com> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Stus-List Winter sailing Message-ID: <1820d770a1e128438825b476052dffb0010c7fdd9...@vmbx111.ihostexchange.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" After only one passage from Quebec to Lisbon under my belt, I can only repeat what my almost world girdling buddy Danno said to bring along; A sense of humour. The rest is in the details. Cheers, have a great trip. Alex Giannelia CC 35-II 1974 to be renamed after re-launch TORONTO, Ontario ag@@airsensing.com ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2013 18:31:48 GMT From: "djhaug...@juno.com" <djhaug...@juno.com> To: capt...@yahoo.com, cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing Message-ID: <20131112.133148.385...@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I'm going to have to look closer but, all I could really see was the fiberglass tube with an aluminum flange at the top and the rudder basically hangs by a pin from there. 2 1/2" thick teflon looking "washers" keep the pin off the aluminum and pretty much ride on each other to reduce friction. I was thinking of just adding an SS washer to try and distribute the point loads from the pin. I'm thinking a should just replace those 2 teflon looking washers as long as I have it apart. But, honestly, I think they would work just fine. I think the idea is just to keep thinks nice and slippery up at the top. Although, a nice tight fit would keep it from moving about. Maybe I should take some good measurements with a caliper and have something machined for the top and the bottom? It's obvious this rudder has been removed a number of times. I'm wondering whether or not it would get dropped every few years to add anti fouling between the hull and the rudder. So, maybe I get 1'! -0" length of 3-5/8" delrin rod and have all those pieces fabricated at a machine shop? Then,slap it all back together? I keep thinking I should improve upon what is there just because I have it all apart. ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "Dennis C." <capt...@yahoo.com> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2013 09:50:49 -0800 (PST) I had a new upper rudder bearing made for Touche' from 1/2 inch thick Delrin. Any decent machinist should be able to do it. The next one I have made will be from 1 inch or 2 pieces of 1/2 inch to increase the bearing surface. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA From: Jim Watts <paradigmat...@gmail.com> To: 1 CnC List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Sent: Monday, November 11, 2013 4:38 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing Those bearing discs are probably Delrin, aka Acetal. I think Dennis C. and/or Joe D.B. scored some made from PEEK or some such...you can make them yourself from sheet stock or have a machine shop mill them out. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20131112/d61eedb2/attachment-0001.html> ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2013 10:40:36 -0800 From: Jim Watts <paradigmat...@gmail.com> To: 1 CnC List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing Message-ID: <CA+jZ0Fcf3307g8jVmrJBanQR5WaTWuN0OXpDtr=baiezips...@mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" 3 5/8" Delrin rod could be hard to come by, 4" is probably the closest you'll find (even at McMaster-Carr). But it does machine beautifully so you could turn it to size on a lathe. My rudder is essentially the same construction except it has a knurled nut on top that rides on the Delrin instead of a pin. On 12 November 2013 10:31, djhaug...@juno.com <djhaug...@juno.com> wrote: > I'm going to have to look closer but, all I could really see was the > fiberglass tube with an aluminum flange at the top and the rudder > basically hangs by a pin from there. 2 1/2" thick teflon looking > "washers" keep the pin off the aluminum and pretty much ride on each other to > reduce friction. > I was thinking of just adding an SS washer to try and distribute the > point loads from the pin. I'm thinking a should just replace those 2 > teflon looking washers as long as I have it apart. But, honestly, I > think they would work just fine. I think the idea is just to keep > thinks nice and slippery up at the top. Although, a nice tight fit > would keep it from moving about. Maybe I should take some good > measurements with a caliper and have something machined for the top and the > bottom? > > It's obvious this rudder has been removed a number of times. I'm > wondering whether or not it would get dropped every few years to add > anti fouling between the hull and the rudder. > > So, maybe I get 1'-0" length of 3-5/8" delrin rod and have all those > pieces fabricated at a machine shop? Then,slap it all back together? > > I keep thinking I should improve upon what is there just because I > have it all apart. > > > > > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: "Dennis C." <capt...@yahoo.com> > To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing > Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2013 09:50:49 -0800 (PST) > > I had a new upper rudder bearing made for Touche' from 1/2 inch thick > Delrin. Any decent machinist should be able to do it. The next one I > have made will be from 1 inch or 2 pieces of 1/2 inch to increase the > bearing surface. > > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > > > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Jim Watts <paradigmat...@gmail.com> > *To:* 1 CnC List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > *Sent:* Monday, November 11, 2013 4:38 PM > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing > > Those bearing discs are probably Delrin, aka Acetal. I think Dennis C. > and/or Joe D.B. scored some made from PEEK or some such...you can make > them yourself from sheet stock or have a machine shop mill them out. > > > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > -- Jim Watts Paradigm Shift C&C 35 Mk III Victoria, BC -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20131112/e5e677d5/attachment-0001.html> ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2013 14:43:36 -0400 From: Ken Heaton <kenhea...@gmail.com> To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List Neverwet Message-ID: <CAAbfP6R9ruC=3jgycn6kgyc2hrfu_n9uucutdpnvaqyfdpj...@mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I don't know about Neverwet but perhaps you should try this? McLube SailKote Plus: High Performance Anti-Mildew Dry Lubricant Coating for Sails, Canvas: http://www.mclubemarine.com/sailkoteplus/ Ken H. On 12 November 2013 10:14, Russ & Melody <russ...@telus.net> wrote: > > Any ideas if the carrier solvent could be harmful to sail filler resin? > If not, that would be pretty handy stuff (reduce weight aloft in a > shower or downpour too). > > Cheers, Russ > *Sweet *35 mk-1 > > > > At 02:47 AM 12/11/2013, you wrote: > > Marketed by Rustoleum and available at places such as Home Depot. It's > a two part kit for about $20. Fun to play around with, but the coating > is not at all durable. > > Bill Bina > > On 11/12/2013 4:03 AM, Tom B wrote: > > Pretty cool stuff. I wonder how this stuff would hold up in saltwater. > Propeller maybe or even as a bottom paint...who knows... > > http://www.neverwet.com > > Tom Buscaglia > S/V Alera > 1990 37+/40 > Vashon WA > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20131112/76100056/attachment-0001.html> ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2013 13:45:24 -0500 From: Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing Message-ID: <CAEL16P9jC7+RPYemkU7WQto4VP5gaK=qB3WhJ=+snspiiy-...@mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Dan, How much play is there? Looks like a pretty tight fit without a bearing. Can you lift up the rudder 1/4 inch to compensate for the SS washer? Joel On Tue, Nov 12, 2013 at 1:40 PM, Jim Watts <paradigmat...@gmail.com> wrote: > 3 5/8" Delrin rod could be hard to come by, 4" is probably the closest > you'll find (even at McMaster-Carr). But it does machine beautifully > so you could turn it to size on a lathe. > My rudder is essentially the same construction except it has a knurled > nut on top that rides on the Delrin instead of a pin. > > > On 12 November 2013 10:31, djhaug...@juno.com <djhaug...@juno.com> wrote: > >> I'm going to have to look closer but, all I could really see was the >> fiberglass tube with an aluminum flange at the top and the rudder >> basically hangs by a pin from there. 2 1/2" thick teflon looking >> "washers" keep the pin off the aluminum and pretty much ride on each other >> to reduce friction. >> I was thinking of just adding an SS washer to try and distribute the >> point loads from the pin. I'm thinking a should just replace those 2 >> teflon looking washers as long as I have it apart. But, honestly, I >> think they would work just fine. I think the idea is just to keep >> thinks nice and slippery up at the top. Although, a nice tight fit >> would keep it from moving about. Maybe I should take some good >> measurements with a caliper and have something machined for the top and the >> bottom? >> >> It's obvious this rudder has been removed a number of times. I'm >> wondering whether or not it would get dropped every few years to add >> anti fouling between the hull and the rudder. >> >> So, maybe I get 1'-0" length of 3-5/8" delrin rod and have all those >> pieces fabricated at a machine shop? Then,slap it all back together? >> >> I keep thinking I should improve upon what is there just because I >> have it all apart. >> >> >> >> >> ---------- Original Message ---------- >> From: "Dennis C." <capt...@yahoo.com> >> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing >> Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2013 09:50:49 -0800 (PST) >> >> I had a new upper rudder bearing made for Touche' from 1/2 inch thick >> Delrin. Any decent machinist should be able to do it. The next one >> I have made will be from 1 inch or 2 pieces of 1/2 inch to increase >> the bearing surface. >> >> Dennis C. >> Touche' 35-1 #83 >> Mandeville, LA >> >> >> >> ------------------------------ >> *From:* Jim Watts <paradigmat...@gmail.com> >> *To:* 1 CnC List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >> *Sent:* Monday, November 11, 2013 4:38 PM >> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing >> >> Those bearing discs are probably Delrin, aka Acetal. I think Dennis C. >> and/or Joe D.B. scored some made from PEEK or some such...you can >> make them yourself from sheet stock or have a machine shop mill them out. >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> >> > > > -- > Jim Watts > Paradigm Shift > C&C 35 Mk III > Victoria, BC > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > -- Joel 301 541 8551 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20131112/15504921/attachment-0001.html> ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2013 18:57:30 GMT From: "djhaug...@juno.com" <djhaug...@juno.com> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing Message-ID: <20131112.135730.385...@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" well, I don't know exactly how much play. I just know there is play. Yea I can lift the rudder a 1/4". I could also go to 2- 3/16" thick delrin washers if I was worried. Or I could just have 2 of each made and play around with it. At the bottom, it could actually have been play at the top and when I was pulling on the rudder, the point where the rudder exits the hull could have been a fulcrum point and only appeared to be sloppy. I'll have to take some careful measures it seems... Danny ---------- Original Message ---------- From: Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2013 13:45:24 -0500 Dan, How much play is there? �Looks like a pretty tight fit without a bearing. �Can you lift up the rudder 1/4 inch to compensate for the SS washer?� Joel On Tue, Nov 12, 2013 at 1:40 PM, Jim Watts <paradigmat...@gmail.com> wrote: 3 5/8" Delrin rod could be hard to come by, 4" is probably the closest you'll find (even at McMaster-Carr). But it does machine beautifully so you could turn it to size on a lathe. My rudder is essentially the same construction except it has a knurled nut on top that rides on the Delrin instead of a pin. On 12 November 2013 10:31, djhaug...@juno.com <djhaug...@juno.com> wrote:I'm going to have to look closer but, all I could really see was the fiberglass tube with an aluminum flange at the top and the rudder basically hangs by a pin from there. �2 1/2" thick teflon looking "washers" keep the pin off the aluminum and pretty much ride on each other to reduce friction. �I was thinking of just adding an SS washer to try and distribute the point loads from the pin. �I'm thinking a should just replace those 2 teflon looking washers as long as I have it apart. �But, honestly, I think they would work just fine. �I think the idea is just to keep thinks nice and slippery up at the top. �Although, a nice tight fit would keep it from moving about. �Maybe I should take some good measurements with a caliper and have something machined for the top and the bottom?�It's obvious this rudder has been removed a number of times. �I'm! wondering whether or not it would get dropped every few years to add anti fouling between the hull and the rudder. ��So, maybe I get 1'-0" length of 3-5/8" delrin rod and have all those pieces fabricated at a machine shop? �Then,slap it all back together? ��I keep thinking I should improve upon what is there just because I have it all apart.�� ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "Dennis C." <capt...@yahoo.com> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder bearingDate: Tue, 12 Nov 2013 09:50:49 -0800 (PST) I had a new upper rudder bearing made for Touche' from 1/2 inch thick Delrin.� Any decent machinist should be able to do it.� The next one I have made will be from 1 inch or 2 pieces of 1/2 inch to increase the bearing surface. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA �� From: Jim Watts <paradigmat...@gmail.com> To: 1 CnC List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Sent: Monday, November 11, 2013 4:38 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing Those bearing discs are probably Delrin, aka Acetal. I think Dennis C. and/or Joe D.B. scored some made from PEEK or some such...you can make them yourself from sheet stock or have a machine shop mill them out.��_______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Jim Watts Paradigm Shift C&C 35 Mk III Victoria, BC _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20131112/87b8bf52/attachment-0001.html> ------------------------------ Message: 9 Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2013 19:28:06 +0000 From: Wally Bryant <w...@wbryant.com> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing Message-ID: <52828146.3090...@wbryant.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed While you have the rudder out, did you notice if there was a plastic washer (delrin or nylon) between your rudder and hull? It's probably worth replacing, if there was one. Not having one can cause your rudder to bounce up and down in rough seas. Wal ------------------------------ Message: 10 Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2013 19:38:40 GMT From: "djhaug...@juno.com" <djhaug...@juno.com> To: w...@wbryant.com, cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing Message-ID: <20131112.143840.385...@webmail-beta03.vgs.untd.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 there was nothing between the rudder and the hull and maybe a 1/4" to 3/8" gap. Danny ---------- Original Message ---------- From: Wally Bryant <w...@wbryant.com> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2013 19:28:06 +0000 While you have the rudder out, did you notice if there was a plastic washer (delrin or nylon) between your rudder and hull? It's probably worth replacing, if there was one. Not having one can cause your rudder to bounce up and down in rough seas. Wal _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ------------------------------ Message: 11 Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2013 12:00:20 -0800 From: Jim Watts <paradigmat...@gmail.com> To: 1 CnC List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing Message-ID: <CA+jZ0Fc5WZx6NquEfaOud7wfm=5miyfi5jlbwwmskkijatz...@mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Good thinking, Wally. I had forgotten about that one. On 12 November 2013 11:38, djhaug...@juno.com <djhaug...@juno.com> wrote: > there was nothing between the rudder and the hull and maybe a 1/4" to 3/8" > gap. > > Danny > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: Wally Bryant <w...@wbryant.com> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing > Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2013 19:28:06 +0000 > > While you have the rudder out, did you notice if there was a plastic > washer (delrin or nylon) between your rudder and hull? It's probably > worth replacing, if there was one. Not having one can cause your > rudder to bounce up and down in rough seas. > > Wal > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com > -- Jim Watts Paradigm Shift C&C 35 Mk III Victoria, BC -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20131112/6baba8e8/attachment-0001.html> ------------------------------ Message: 12 Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2013 00:58:57 +0000 From: Wally Bryant <w...@wbryant.com> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Stus-List And the Baja Haha hits town... Message-ID: <5282ced1.1030...@wbryant.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed And the Baja Haha hits town. Given the northerly breezes over the last two days, I thought that anyone with an ounce of sense would relax and stay put for a little bit. But today a Tayana 54 with all the accoutrements blasted into one of the widest fairways imaginable too fast and managed to hit two other boats on an entirely different dock before being manhandled into place. The skipper was flying three Baja Haha burgees, so he must be a real sailor. He should invest in bow and stern thrusters for his sailboat. ------------------------------ Message: 13 Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2013 23:00:15 -0400 From: Rich Knowles <r...@sailpower.ca> To: "w...@wbryant.com" <w...@wbryant.com>, "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List And the Baja Haha hits town... Message-ID: <6880b627-bbf3-47ae-b2e7-69c0bcc8d...@sailpower.ca> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii As long as you're ok.... Rich > On Nov 12, 2013, at 20:58, Wally Bryant <w...@wbryant.com> wrote: > > And the Baja Haha hits town. Given the northerly breezes over the last two > days, I thought that anyone with an ounce of sense would relax and stay put > for a little bit. But today a Tayana 54 with all the accoutrements blasted > into one of the widest fairways imaginable too fast and managed to hit two > other boats on an entirely different dock before being manhandled into place. > The skipper was flying three Baja Haha burgees, so he must be a real sailor. > He should invest in bow and stern thrusters for his sailboat. > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com ------------------------------ Message: 14 Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2013 11:01:51 -0500 From: David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com> To: CnC CnC discussion list <CnC-List@cnc-list.com> Subject: Stus-List bleeding fuel lines after filter change on M4-30 Message-ID: <6af3849f-0a00-40e7-8687-4deedc5c0...@gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I have not had to change the filters on my Universal M4-30 yet, but was reading the procedure in the manual. Basically there was no procedure. They just say to change the filters and the system is self-bleeding. I am presuming that the electric fuel pump circulates fuel continuously so this will remove air from the lines. Is that right? If so, it would be a major plus as bleeding the lines on my old Yanmar was a PITA. If so, is there a recommended wait time after changing the filters and turning on the fuel pump before starting so one clears the lines and does not force air into the injectors? Thanks- Dave David Knecht Aries 1990 C&C 34+ New London, CT -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20131113/7cce4fe7/attachment-0001.html> -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: pastedGraphic.tiff Type: image/tiff Size: 6852 bytes Desc: not available URL: <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20131113/7cce4fe7/attachment-0001.tiff> ------------------------------ Message: 15 Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2013 16:41:57 +0000 From: Wally Bryant <w...@wbryant.com> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List bleeding fuel lines after filter change on M4-30 Message-ID: <5283abd5.6020...@wbryant.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed David - My Universal M40B is self bleeding. When I repowered, it started up on the first try. Amazing. I have an external electric Walbro pump and valves to recirculate fuel through the Racor and back to the tank, bypassing the engine. When changing fuel filters, I'll run that for a bit just to purge air from the Racor. However, you don't need that. There's probably enough fuel in the engine lines to get the engine started, and the electric fuel pump will move enough fuel through to purge the lines before an air bubble hits the injector pump. Wal On 11/13/2013 4:01 PM, David Knecht wrote: > I am presuming that the > electric fuel pump circulates fuel continuously so this will remove air from > the > lines. Is that right? If so, it would be a major plus as bleeding the lines > on > my old Yanmar was a PITA. ------------------------------ Message: 16 Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2013 12:49:23 -0400 From: dwight veinot <dwight...@gmail.com> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List bleeding fuel lines after filter change on M4-30 Message-ID: <CAAX9F+GRjyOFEorZw1nPvst3NX=amc1walkwvh_6+ofrabm...@mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252" David I remember bleeding the fuel line when I change the filters on my M4-30. Bleeding was no big deal and I believe it is described in the manual that I have, which is packed on the boat under cover so I can't refer you to a page ?be sure to shut off the fuel from the tank when you change the filters. It has been about 5 years since I changed those filters...I use less than 20 gallons a year and I filter everything that goes into the tank and keep it full over winter but I know I followed the procedure in my manual. Dwight Veinot Alianna C&C 35 MKII Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS On Wed, Nov 13, 2013 at 12:01 PM, David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com>wrote: > I have not had to change the filters on my Universal M4-30 yet, but was > reading the procedure in the manual. Basically there was no procedure. > They just say to change the filters and the system is self-bleeding. I am > presuming that the electric fuel pump circulates fuel continuously so this > will remove air from the lines. Is that right? If so, it would be a major > plus as bleeding the lines on my old Yanmar was a PITA. If so, is there a > recommended wait time after changing the filters and turning on the fuel > pump before starting so one clears the lines and does not force air into > the injectors? Thanks- Dave > > David Knecht > Aries > 1990 C&C 34+ > New London, CT > > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20131113/ac9a3982/attachment.html> -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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