This excellent. Thank you Bill
William D. Blight P.Eng. Regional Manager Real Property Geomatics Services Gestionnaire régional Géomatique Services 902-496-5160 | Fax/Téléc: 902-496-5547 william.bli...@pwgsc.gc.ca / william.bli...@tpsgc.gc.ca 1713 Bedford Row, Halifax, NS B3J 1T3 1713 Bedford Row, Halifax (NÉ) B3J 1T3 Public Works and Government Services Canada / Travaux publics et Services gouvernementaux Canada _ > On Nov 9, 2013, at 10:07 AM, "wwadjo...@aol.com" <wwadjo...@aol.com> wrote: > > Thanks to all for the responses. Confirmed many of my thoughts and > concerns. > Bill Walker > C n C 36 > Pentwater, Mi. > > Sent from my HTC > > ----- Reply message ----- > From: "Ron Casciato" <rjcasci...@comcast.net> > To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Subject: Stus-List floorboards > Date: Fri, Nov 8, 2013 9:26 AM > > Bill: > > > > +++1 on the lining up the pattern > > > > .your eye notices the slightest > mismatch and remember that you will be looking down at it every time you > enter the boat. > > > > When we did the floors on my 38MKII last year, it took 2 4x8 panels and the > panels were matched as well end to end. > > > > My floor has several openings (keel sump, mast plate, opening in front of > the head door, and a small one about half way back from the keel opening. > These are mainly for getting to the keel bolts, but you should address the > raw edge of the plywood when you cut those openings. We cut the openings > wider to accommodate a ¼ teak strip, the same thickness of the floor and > epoxied that strip to the inside edges of the openings. Mitered corners > make for a nice finish. > > > > On the 38, the outside edges in the area of the stairway and the starboard > lockers up front have a tapered edge due to the hull shape sliding down into > the floor area. That was a chore to carefully taper the back side of the > floor to match the slope of the hull. > > > > The end result was very nice and professional looking > > > > .I suppose > that you > could cut flush sides at the edge of the slope but on my boat that would > narrow the floor and expose white fiberglass > > > .we decided not to do > that so > we finished it as above. > > > > TAKE YOUR TIME > > > .. Final suggestion, > > > . Finishing the top > surface > > > Epoxy > the underside is a must > > > ..the edges as well > > > .we used a > product from > Awlgrip which was a hard clear coat for the top surface over a sealer that > was sanded smooth. It has to be sprayed, and hanging the panels upside down > prevents dust from settling on the finish > > > . Two or three coats of that > stuff produced a beautiful finish and it is harder than epoxy and varnish > > > I > never expect to have to finish or treat it again. It also survives dropped > wrenches, etc. without denting the surface > > > > .. > > > > A great project > > > > > TAKE YOUR TIME and watch the temperature and > humidity > for best results with epoxy or other finish. > > > > Good Luck, > > > > Ron C. > > > > _____ > > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave > Godwin > Sent: Friday, November 08, 2013 6:48 AM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Re: Stus-List floorboards > > > > Bill, this is exactly how I did my floorboards years ago with help from a > buddy who worked in a boatbuilders woodshop. Unfortunately I will be doing > it again this winter > > > > > ++1 on lining up the pattern. Take your time. > > > > Dave > > 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin > > > > On Nov 8, 2013, at 5:49 AM, Graham Collins <cnclistforw...@hotmail.com> > wrote: > > > > > > Hi Bill > Rough cut the new material with an allowance of say 3/8" all around, then > using the original screw holes in the old floorboards screw the old boards > to the new and use a trimming bit in a router (straight bit with bearing of > the same diameter) to trim. No clamps required, and you use the same screw > holes to install the new boards. > > +1 on the suggestion to ensure you line up the holly carefully from panel to > panel, I did not do this and it bugs me... but not enough for a do-over! > > > > Graham Collins > Secret Plans > C&C 35-III #11 > > On 2013-11-07 10:26 PM, wwadjo...@aol.com wrote: > > > > I am planning to remake floorboards this winter. I have old ones for > pattern. Would be interested in any tips, on or off list, that anyone has > for patterning, cutting, finishing. Plan to epoxy all sides, then varnish. > Thinking of m making full size masonite patterns , attach with double sided > tape to new floor stock, then use straight cutting bit in router to cut. > Thoughts welcome. > > Bill Walker > > 36 > > Pentwater, Mi > > Sent from my HTC > > > > ----- Reply message ----- > From: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com > To: <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Subject: Stus-List Current C&C History; now a Dose of reality !!!! > Date: Thu, Nov 7, 2013 9:03 PM > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com <http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com <http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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