When I redid our floorboards, I gave the top edge of the beams a single layer of electrical vinyl tape to add a little cushion between the epoxy coating on the boards and the fiberglass beams. I know they are called "floors" but it's confusing.
Chuck Resolute 1990 C&C 34R Atlantic City, NJ ----- Original Message ----- From: j...@svpaws.net To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Saturday, November 9, 2013 11:59:38 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List floorboards I'm only guessing here but.... When I tried to take up the floor on my 121 I was surprised to find that Tartan had put a line of caulk on every beam. It made taking the floor up a disaster as the silicone acted as an adhesive. On the other hand, I don't recall ever hearing the floorboards squeak. John Sent from my iPad On Nov 9, 2013, at 11:12 AM, "Brad Crawford" < bcrawf7...@comcast.net > wrote: On the subject of floorboards, do others have squeaky, creaky floorboards like we do? Have you found a cure for it? Thanks, Brad CnC 36 Seattle From: CnC-List [ mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com ] On Behalf Of wwadjo...@aol.com Sent: Saturday, November 09, 2013 6:08 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List floorboards Thanks to all for the responses. Confirmed many of my thoughts and concerns. Bill Walker C n C 36 Pentwater, Mi. Sent from my HTC ----- Reply message ----- From: "Ron Casciato" < rjcasci...@comcast.net > To: < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Stus-List floorboards Date: Fri, Nov 8, 2013 9:26 AM Bill: +++1 on the lining up the pattern .your eye notices the slightest mismatch and remember that you will be looking down at it every time you enter the boat. When we did the floors on my 38MKII last year, it took 2 4x8 panels and the panels were matched as well end to end. My floor has several openings (keel sump, mast plate, opening in front of the head door, and a small one about half way back from the keel opening. These are mainly for getting to the keel bolts, but you should address the raw edge of the plywood when you cut those openings. We cut the openings wider to accommodate a ¼ teak strip, the same thickness of the floor and epoxied that strip to the inside edges of the openings. Mitered corners make for a nice finish. On the 38, the outside edges in the area of the stairway and the starboard lockers up front have a tapered edge due to the hull shape sliding down into the floor area. That was a chore to carefully taper the back side of the floor to match the slope of the hull. The end result was very nice and professional looking .I suppose that you could cut flush sides at the edge of the slope but on my boat that would narrow the floor and expose white fiberglass .we decided not to do that so we finished it as above. TAKE YOUR TIME .. Final suggestion, . Finishing the top surface Epoxy the underside is a must ..the edges as well .we used a product from Awlgrip which was a hard clear coat for the top surface over a sealer that was sanded smooth. It has to be sprayed, and hanging the panels upside down prevents dust from settling on the finish . Two or three coats of that stuff produced a beautiful finish and it is harder than epoxy and varnish I never expect to have to finish or treat it again. It also survives dropped wrenches, etc. without denting the surface .. A great project TAKE YOUR TIME and watch the temperature and humidity for best results with epoxy or other finish. Good Luck, Ron C. _____ From: CnC-List [ mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com ] On Behalf Of Dave Godwin Sent: Friday, November 08, 2013 6:48 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List floorboards Bill, this is exactly how I did my floorboards years ago with help from a buddy who worked in a boatbuilders woodshop. Unfortunately I will be doing it again this winter ++1 on lining up the pattern. Take your time. Dave 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin On Nov 8, 2013, at 5:49 AM, Graham Collins < cnclistforw...@hotmail.com > wrote: Hi Bill Rough cut the new material with an allowance of say 3/8" all around, then using the original screw holes in the old floorboards screw the old boards to the new and use a trimming bit in a router (straight bit with bearing of the same diameter) to trim. No clamps required, and you use the same screw holes to install the new boards. +1 on the suggestion to ensure you line up the holly carefully from panel to panel, I did not do this and it bugs me... but not enough for a do-over! Graham Collins Secret Plans C&C 35-III #11 On 2013-11-07 10:26 PM, wwadjo...@aol.com wrote: I am planning to remake floorboards this winter. I have old ones for pattern. Would be interested in any tips, on or off list, that anyone has for patterning, cutting, finishing. Plan to epoxy all sides, then varnish. Thinking of m making full size masonite patterns , attach with double sided tape to new floor stock, then use straight cutting bit in router to cut. Thoughts welcome. Bill Walker 36 Pentwater, Mi Sent from my HTC ----- Reply message ----- From: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com To: < mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Stus-List Current C&C History; now a Dose of reality !!!! 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