McLube works well, too. I have a spot where a bulkhead rubs against the
liner, one shot once a year and the squeaking stops.


On 9 November 2013 09:35, Rich Knowles <r...@sailpower.ca> wrote:

> Pour a little dish detergent in the creaking areas.
>
> Rich
>
> On Nov 9, 2013, at 12:12, "Brad Crawford" <bcrawf7...@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>  On the subject of floorboards, do others have squeaky, creaky
> floorboards like we do?  Have you found a cure for it?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Brad
>
> CnC 36
>
> Seattle
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List 
> [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com<cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>]
> *On Behalf Of *wwadjo...@aol.com
> *Sent:* Saturday, November 09, 2013 6:08 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List floorboards
>
>
>
> Thanks to all for the responses.   Confirmed many of my thoughts and
> concerns.
>
> Bill Walker
>
> C n C 36
>
> Pentwater, Mi.
>
>
>
> Sent from my HTC
>
>
>
> ----- Reply message -----
> From: "Ron Casciato" <rjcasci...@comcast.net>
> To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Stus-List floorboards
> Date: Fri, Nov 8, 2013 9:26 AM
>
>
>
>  Bill:
>
>
>
>
>
> +++1 on the lining up the pattern………….your eye notices the slightest
>
> mismatch and remember that you will be looking down at it every time you
>
> enter the boat.
>
>
>
>
>
> When we did the floors on my 38MKII last year, it took 2 4x8 panels and the
>
> panels were matched as well end to end.
>
>
>
>
>
> My floor has several openings (keel sump, mast plate, opening in front of
>
> the head door, and a small one about half way back from the keel opening.
>
> These are mainly for getting to the keel bolts, but you should address the
>
> raw edge of the plywood when you cut those openings.  We cut the openings
>
> wider to accommodate a ¼’ teak strip, the same thickness of the floor and
>
> epoxied that strip to the inside edges of the openings.  Mitered corners
>
> make for a nice finish.
>
>
>
>
>
> On the 38, the outside edges in the area of the stairway and the starboard
>
> lockers up front have a tapered edge due to the hull shape sliding down into
>
> the floor area.  That was a chore to carefully taper the back side of the
>
> floor to match the slope of the hull.
>
>
>
>
>
> The end result was very nice and professional looking………….I suppose that you
>
> could cut flush sides at the edge of the slope but on my boat that would
>
> narrow the floor and expose white fiberglass……….we decided not to do that so
>
> we finished it as above.
>
>
>
>
>
> TAKE YOUR TIME……….. Final suggestion,………. Finishing the top surface………Epoxy
>
> the underside is a must………..the edges as well ……….we used a product from
>
> Awlgrip which was a hard clear coat for the top surface over a sealer that
>
> was sanded smooth.  It has to be sprayed, and hanging the panels upside down
>
> prevents dust from settling on the finish………. Two or three coats of that
>
> stuff produced a beautiful finish and it is harder than epoxy and varnish……I
>
> never expect to have to finish or treat it again.  It also survives dropped
>
> wrenches, etc. without denting the surface…………..
>
>
>
>
>
> A great project……………TAKE YOUR TIME and watch the temperature and humidity
>
> for best results with epoxy or other finish.
>
>
>
>
>
> Good Luck,
>
>
>
>
>
> Ron C.
>
>
>
>
>
>   _____
>
>
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On Behalf Of Dave
>
> Godwin
>
> Sent: Friday, November 08, 2013 6:48 AM
>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List floorboards
>
>
>
>
>
> Bill, this is exactly how I did my floorboards years ago with help from a
>
> buddy who worked in a boatbuilder’s woodshop. Unfortunately I will be doing
>
> it again this winter…
>
>
>
>
>
> ++1 on lining up the pattern. Take your time.
>
>
>
>
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
>
>
>
>
>
> On Nov 8, 2013, at 5:49 AM, Graham Collins <cnclistforw...@hotmail.com>
>
> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Hi Bill
>
> Rough cut the new material with an allowance of say 3/8" all around, then
>
> using the original screw holes in the old floorboards screw the old boards
>
> to the new and use a trimming bit in a router (straight bit with bearing of
>
> the same diameter) to trim.  No clamps required, and you use the same screw
>
> holes to install the new boards.
>
>
>
> +1 on the suggestion to ensure you line up the holly carefully from panel to
>
> panel, I did not do this and it bugs me... but not enough for a do-over!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Graham Collins
>
> Secret Plans
>
> C&C 35-III #11
>
>
>
> On 2013-11-07 10:26 PM, wwadjo...@aol.com wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> I am planning to remake floorboards this winter.  I have old ones for
>
> pattern.  Would be interested in any tips, on or off list, that anyone has
>
> for patterning, cutting, finishing.  Plan to epoxy all sides, then varnish.
>
> Thinking of m making full size masonite patterns , attach with double sided
>
> tape to new floor stock, then use straight cutting bit in router to cut.
>
> Thoughts welcome.
>
>
>
> Bill Walker
>
>
>
> 36
>
>
>
> Pentwater, Mi
>
>
>
> Sent from my HTC
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Reply message -----
>
> From: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com
>
> To:  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>
> Subject: Stus-List Current C&C History; now a Dose of reality !!!!
>
> Date: Thu, Nov 7, 2013 9:03 PM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
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-- 
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
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