Thanks to all for the responses. Confirmed many of my thoughts and concerns.
Bill Walker
C n C 36
Pentwater, Mi.
Sent from my HTC
----- Reply message -----
From: "Ron Casciato" <rjcasci...@comcast.net>
To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Stus-List floorboards
Date: Fri, Nov 8, 2013 9:26 AM
Bill:
+++1 on the lining up the pattern
.your eye notices the slightest
mismatch and remember that you will be looking down at it every time you
enter the boat.
When we did the floors on my 38MKII last year, it took 2 4x8 panels and the
panels were matched as well end to end.
My floor has several openings (keel sump, mast plate, opening in front of
the head door, and a small one about half way back from the keel opening.
These are mainly for getting to the keel bolts, but you should address the
raw edge of the plywood when you cut those openings. We cut the openings
wider to accommodate a ¼ teak strip, the same thickness of the floor and
epoxied that strip to the inside edges of the openings. Mitered corners
make for a nice finish.
On the 38, the outside edges in the area of the stairway and the starboard
lockers up front have a tapered edge due to the hull shape sliding down into
the floor area. That was a chore to carefully taper the back side of the
floor to match the slope of the hull.
The end result was very nice and professional looking
.I suppose that you
could cut flush sides at the edge of the slope but on my boat that would
narrow the floor and expose white fiberglass
.we decided not to do that so
we finished it as above.
TAKE YOUR TIME
.. Final suggestion,
. Finishing the top surface
Epoxy
the underside is a must
..the edges as well
.we used a product from
Awlgrip which was a hard clear coat for the top surface over a sealer that
was sanded smooth. It has to be sprayed, and hanging the panels upside down
prevents dust from settling on the finish
. Two or three coats of that
stuff produced a beautiful finish and it is harder than epoxy and varnish
I
never expect to have to finish or treat it again. It also survives dropped
wrenches, etc. without denting the surface
..
A great project
TAKE YOUR TIME and watch the temperature and humidity
for best results with epoxy or other finish.
Good Luck,
Ron C.
_____
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave
Godwin
Sent: Friday, November 08, 2013 6:48 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List floorboards
Bill, this is exactly how I did my floorboards years ago with help from a
buddy who worked in a boatbuilders woodshop. Unfortunately I will be doing
it again this winter
++1 on lining up the pattern. Take your time.
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
On Nov 8, 2013, at 5:49 AM, Graham Collins <cnclistforw...@hotmail.com>
wrote:
Hi Bill
Rough cut the new material with an allowance of say 3/8" all around, then
using the original screw holes in the old floorboards screw the old boards
to the new and use a trimming bit in a router (straight bit with bearing of
the same diameter) to trim. No clamps required, and you use the same screw
holes to install the new boards.
+1 on the suggestion to ensure you line up the holly carefully from panel to
panel, I did not do this and it bugs me... but not enough for a do-over!
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2013-11-07 10:26 PM, wwadjo...@aol.com wrote:
I am planning to remake floorboards this winter. I have old ones for
pattern. Would be interested in any tips, on or off list, that anyone has
for patterning, cutting, finishing. Plan to epoxy all sides, then varnish.
Thinking of m making full size masonite patterns , attach with double sided
tape to new floor stock, then use straight cutting bit in router to cut.
Thoughts welcome.
Bill Walker
36
Pentwater, Mi
Sent from my HTC
----- Reply message -----
From: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com
To: <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Stus-List Current C&C History; now a Dose of reality !!!!
Date: Thu, Nov 7, 2013 9:03 PM
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