Mine came with a squeezy bulb first in line after the fuel tank and before the Racor. Helps prime the old style racor.
While talking about the engine lift pumps. While you have the fuel system open it is a good idea to remove the lift pump and pressure check it on the inlet while plugging the outlet. Those lift pumps are diaphragm pumps and can develop leaks. Which will allow fuel to pour into the oil. You can also check the operation of the inlet and outlet check valves by putting a Mitty-Vac vacuum pump on the inlet and drawing a vacuum. It should hold pretty steady for at least 30-60 seconds. Then put the Mitty-Vac on the outlet while plugging the inlet, and operate the manual flipper and watch the vacuum. Again it should last 30-60 seconds...at least. Cheap insurance. Josh -- When security matters. http://www.secure-my-email.com On Jun 6, 2013, at 12:38 PM, OldSteveH <oldste...@sympatico.ca> wrote: Note if you also have a primary fuel water separator (nearer to fuel tank) it cannot be primed like the fuel filter because it is on the suction side of the pump. The only way it could be primed is if you have an electric pump between tank and separator. Or if you have a Racor with the prime pump on the top, like Joel mentioned. This can work much better than trying to use the flipper lever on the engine-mounted fuel lift pump; it doesn't matter where the engine cam is, and the Racor moves more fuel per pump. Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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