Sander,
I have done several "deck peels".
Use a moisture meter or tap the deck with a hard tool to determine the extent
of the soft core. It is advisable to cut outside the damaged area in order to
have dry, solid core on which to glue back the peeled deck. Barring that, you
can cut along existing contours such as the demarcation between the smooth and
nonskid areas. However, if the wet, rotted area extends under the nonskid
quite a ways, this may not be possible.
I use a Dremel MultiMax oscillating saw to make the cut through the
deck skin. It makes a very thin cut. Make a shallow cut only through
the fiberglass deck. Then use a thin, flexible blade putty knife to remove the
deck section.
If you are successful in cutting outside the damaged area, remove the damaged
wood leaving a ledge around the opening on which to replace the cut out deck
section. It is important to have a ledge that will allow the replaced deck
section to match the rest of the deck in elevation. You may remove a slight
bit of the ledge to allow for the thickness of some thickened epoxy when the
deck section is replaced.
After removal and replacement of the core, make sure the repaired area is
smooth and level. Place the removed deck section in place and check for fit
and elevation match. Then apply masking tape to the edges of both the remove
section and the deck.
Mix epoxy with slow hardener and apply to repaired area and underside of the
removed section. Then quickly mix thickened epoxy and apply to the repaired
area with a small notched trowel. Lay the deck section in place and press to
spread the epoxy. If you do it right, the deck will match and some of the
epoxy will squeeze out through the cut. That's good. Leave it for a while to
begin to gel. When the epoxy begins to gel, remove the excess with a single
edge razor blade or sharpened painters knife.
To finish, mix gelcoat and apply to the cut. For smooth areas, sand after
cure. For nonskid areas, dab it with a toothbrush to create nonskid.
Good luck,
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
>________________________________
> From: Rick Taillieu <rtaill...@eastlink.ca>
>To: 'Sander vd Moolen' <san...@vpilot.net>; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 1:11 PM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 information request
>
>
>
>Sander,
>
>I used this method when I repaired the areasaround my chainplates.
>I used a Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel and cut a 20cm X 25cm rectangle
>through the top layer of the deck.
>The top layer came off fairly easily, you can use a long thin blade to cut
>through the core on any stubborn spots.
>I cleaned out all the old rotten balsa and put in foam core material laid onto
>a bed of thickened epoxy.
>Make sure you leave an area about 1 cm all around where the chainplates slide
>in so you can go back in and seal the edges with thickened epoxy once
>everything has cured.
>Then I put on a couple layers of mat saturated in epoxy then another layer of
>thickened epoxy that I laid the top deck piece that I had cleaned up.
>I made sure that the thickened epoxy squeezed out all around the seam.
>After removing the excess epoxy along the seams I covered the whole area with
>waxed paper, put a board on top of the paper then put weights on top of the
>board.
>This ensures a constant pressure on the whole area until the epoxy cures.
>I did this all in one step to get the repair to cure as one unit.
>After it all cured I took everything off and cleaned up any excess epoxy from
>the area.
>I was painting the whole deck afterwards so I didn’t really care if there was
>a bit of excess epoxy to sand off, I was more concerned with getting a good
>bond.
>The repairs have lasted pretty well, after about 12 years small cracks
>developed around the perimeter of the repairs.
>I bevelled the area along the seams and laid in a couple layers of fibreglass
>tabbing, after it cured I sanded it flush then repainted it again.
>
>I followed the techniques in Don Casey’s book “Sailboat Hull & Deck Repair” (·
> ISBN-10: 0070133697 · ISBN-13: 978-0070133693).
>
>Cheers
>
>Rick Taillieu
>Nemesis
>'75 C&C 25 #371
>Shearwater Yacht Club
>Halifax, NS.
>
>
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