Sander,
The 25 is really a great boat. You dont have to worry about the hull, its very strong. Fill in the hole from the saildrive and put an outboard on the stern, they sail better this way. You will want an 8 or 9.9 hp extra long shaft (25 shaft) to try to prevent the prop from coming out of the water in choppy seas. The 25 tends to hobbyhorse in choppy water, the 25 shaft outboard will help in this area but the boat really doesnt like very much weight on the ends. Dont store an anchor on the bow either. As for the deck, you do have to check out the core for delaminating or rot. Aside from what the seller told you about around the stantion bases, also check around where the chainplates go through the deck. I had to replace the core on mine in this area. Also check the foredeck area, cockpit floor and around where the mast wiring goes through the deck. I had to fill this area with epoxy and moved the hole when I rewired mine. The boat sails really well and is pretty stiff for its size. I have mine set up for singlehanded sailing but it is comfortable with three or four in the cockpit. Racing with a crew of three or four is ideal, but two people familiar with the boat can be very competitive. The boat sails very close to its rating against a wide variety of boats, both bigger and smaller. Ive been our club champion for the last three years, the last two racing double handed with my son. You have to remember that these boats were designed for a 170% #1 genoa and we race them now with what would then have been a #2 ( 153%) as a #1. I have an old dacron full hoist 135-140% #2 that I use racing when the wind is above 13 kts true (whitecaps on the water) as well as a daysailing/cruising sail that works really well. Its won me quite a few races. The boat was a continuation from C&Cs Mirage 24/Northern ¼ ton boats but wasnt designed to the IOR rule. I doubt that the boat sailed to the Netherlands on its own bottom but given a favourable weather window anything is possible. I know of a Shark that sailed to Europe and back in the 80s. BTW, if you keep the saildrive there is nothing wrong with gas inboards as long as you follow the rule to vent the bilge for at least five minutes before attempting to start the engine. This includes making sure the hose from the bilge to the blower motor draws from the lowest point in the bilge. Gas engine boats have gotten a bad reputation because you only hear of the idiots that blow themselves up by not following this rule. You havent mentioned the price of the boat but with the deck work required you should be able to get it for a pretty low price. Good luck with your purchase. Cheers Rick Taillieu Nemesis '75 C&C 25 #371 Shearwater Yacht Club Halifax, NS. From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sander van der Moolen Sent: April-21-13 5:08 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List C&C 25 information request Hello readers, Whilst browsing our local (Dutch) boat market websites, I came across a C&C 25. I really like how it looks, and I have a bit of a weak spot for IOR class boats J Thing is, I couldn't find much information about this boat, nobody I know in Holland has ever heard of C&C Yachts. So far, I've learned it's Canadian build (1974). Makes me wonder how it got to this side of the pond, are they such seaworthy boats? But what I really would like to know, what are its strong and weak points? What should I be looking for when I go out to look at this boat? The seller has already informed me that the balsa core at the stanchion bases is bad and needs to be repaired. The seller has dismounted all the hardware, including engine and saildrive. It has an inboard gasoline engine, but frankly I'm scared of gasoline inboards so if I buy this boat, I'll try to exclude the engine (or maybe trade it for an outboard). Thank you for any advice! Regards, Sander The Netherlands. _____ No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2013.0.3272 / Virus Database: 3162/6262 - Release Date: 04/21/13
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