Hi David, Universal M4-30 I keep a tupperware type plastic container under a bunk with typical spares: belts, fuel filters, a secondary and a water separator type primary, I changed once in 10 years oil filter, I change every fall oil filter strap wrench, water pump impellers, I rotate mine each year or change to a new one 1/8" wooden dowels for rodding out the heat exchanger, zincs for the heat exchanger oil absorption pads nytrile gloves Qt of Rotella engine oil15-40 for Diesels Qt of Transmission Fluid
I agree with Dwight's advice. I keep the fuel clean and fresh to avoid surprises I have heard about from other boaters. I haven't had a problem, but I like to avoid problems if I can. I buy off road diesel in 5 gallon jugs from a busy truck fuel station, Riggins, and take to the boat and pour it through a big funnel with a screen I keep aboard in plastic bag. I add stabilizer at the end of summer, and use Seafoam as a treatment for the fuel and oil. I once had a starter problem, got it fixed at an auto starter repair shop. $75 for new solenoid and bearings, ready same day. That event worried me about the possible age of my fuel, so I changed over to fresh diesel very easily. I simply disconnected the return hose at the tank and stuck it in a jerry can and and ran the electric fuel pump without starting the engine and pumped most of my fuel tank's old diesel fuel into 5 gallon jerry cans that I poured into a friend's backhoe, and bought fresh fuel for the boat. I checked the tank for sludge by removing the gage sensor. Chuck Resolute 1990 C&C 34R Atlantic City, NJ ----- Original Message ----- From: "dwight veinot" <dwightvei...@hfx.eastlink.ca> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Saturday, March 9, 2013 11:54:36 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Universal M4-30 I have the M4-30 in my 35 MKII. Smooth running and quiet little 4 cylinder diesel…lots of power for my boat which is over 12000 displacement and driven by an H5 Autoprop. Keep a spare belt on board and make sure the belt on the engine is tensioned, change oil and filter…keep the fuel clean, change the fuel filter regularly…I haven’t had to do anything else in the 9 years that I have owned it. NAPA has the replacement parts that I needed, oil and fuel filters, belt…also winterize appropriately if you are in cold climate Dwight Veinot C&C 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht Sent: March 9, 2013 12:45 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Universal M4-30 Since I am considering the purchase of a C&C 34+ with a Universal M4-30, it would be nice to hear a similar set of recommendations for that engine. My last boat had a Yanmar, so this engine is new to me. What maintenance/aging issues are there to worry about or have replacements for? There seems to be no way to tell engine hours so I don't know anything except that it is from 1990 and according to survey it runs fine. Thanks- Dave On Mar 9, 2013, at 10:38 AM, Joseph Bognar wrote: Paul: I use mast boot tape on my mast. My boot was gone when I bought the boat. If your mast stays in all the time a dab of silicone on the sail trach where the boot or tape will be is also needed. The 30 is stiff and the rigging is real strong. I would not worry about that. If you have an atomic 4 I would replace the plugs cap and rotor. Have a spare coil and replace the impellor. I have also had issues with my Oil pressure switch failing. I would replace that for piece of mind. I love my 30 and I know that you will love it too. I had a red C&C 24 before also. Mine was a 1977 era boat. There is a good atomic 4 e-mail list too and don Moyer has a great site for the motor. Joe -----Original Message----- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul Baker Sent: March-09-13 12:13 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C30 mast step (and C&C24 for sale) Thanks Joe, I think the wood still felt solid, the mast boot has failed which is why there is so much water in there (plus it's in Vancouver, and it rains, a lot). Seems that replacement is more of a pain and messy job than particularly difficult, plus the expense of pulling the mast. Of main concern would be that should I end up buying this one, I will have to get her back over the Strait, doing that on a new boat, with an unknown engine, unknown rigging, unknown systems and an owner who's never sailed across it before should be an interesting adventure :-) Cheers, Paul. On 13-03-08 09:00 PM, Joseph Bognar wrote: Paul. That looks like it needs to be replaced. It is exactly like the one in my 1979 era C&C 30. Being full of water is not good either , <blockquote> That water should drain into the bilge. The stringer below may be weak </blockquote> <blockquote> also. Have a good survey before you buy. Just lower the price for the </blockquote> repair. <blockquote> Joe Bognar </blockquote> <blockquote> </blockquote> <blockquote> -----Original Message----- </blockquote> <blockquote> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of </blockquote> <blockquote> Paul Baker </blockquote> <blockquote> Sent: March-08-13 11:07 PM </blockquote> <blockquote> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com </blockquote> <blockquote> Subject: Stus-List C&C30 mast step (and C&C24 for sale) </blockquote> <blockquote> </blockquote> <blockquote> Hi Folks, </blockquote> <blockquote> I had a look at a C&C30 the other day, the mast step is of mild </blockquote> <blockquote> concern. I thought I read that C&C replaced the wood with aluminium </blockquote> <blockquote> fairly early in the production to prevent it rotting through. The </blockquote> <blockquote> mast step appears to be a woody on this one, I am guessing this looks </blockquote> <blockquote> like a rotter, or is this just a cosmetic piece? Or is the step </blockquote> underneath and is fine? The boat is a 1976. http://s181.beta.photobucket.com/user/Scooby-FCCUK/media/2013-03-06121 <blockquote> 620_zp </blockquote> <blockquote> sc1ea6c83.jpg.html </blockquote> <blockquote> Any advice welcome. </blockquote> <blockquote> Cheers, </blockquote> <blockquote> Paul </blockquote> <blockquote> </blockquote> <blockquote> PS. Anyone want to buy a nice C&C24? </blockquote> <blockquote> </blockquote> <blockquote> _______________________________________________ </blockquote> <blockquote> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album </blockquote> <blockquote> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com </blockquote> <blockquote> </blockquote> <blockquote> </blockquote> <blockquote> _______________________________________________ </blockquote> <blockquote> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album </blockquote> <blockquote> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com </blockquote> <blockquote> </blockquote> _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com David Knecht, Ph.D. Professor and Head of Microscopy Facility Department of Molecular and Cell Biology U-3125 91 N. Eagleville Rd. University of Connecticut Storrs , CT 06269 860-486-2200 860-486-4331 (fax) No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2012.0.2240 / Virus Database: 2641/5659 - Release Date: 03/09/13 _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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