I used Dyneema. Very easy to splice. I put shroud covers on the forward section of top lifeline to prevent the jib from chafing. Used thimbles on the ends that are lashed to the stanchion.
Joel Sent from my iPad On Feb 16, 2013, at 9:50 AM, Jim Watts <paradigmat...@gmail.com> wrote: > I did the same as Graham, using the Johnson kit. I already had the right > crimper from doing the 29, as well as experience. Since I was working at West > Marine at the time, I got everything at deep discount, so my costs were about > 1/4 of having the lifelines done professionally. > The major lesson I brought away from this is that next time if I went with > conventional wire I would use the same gauge of wire for the top and bottom > lifelines, the 3/16" wire works much better in the crimp terminals than the > 1/8" wire + conversion sleeves. I did the cockpit area with 3/16" top and > bottom but the rest of the boat has 1/8" lower lifelines. I had to do a > couple of lifelines in place since the terminals wouldn't go through the > stanchion sleeves. > > However, having done two boats like this, I think next time around I would > use spectra. > > > > Jim Watts > Paradigm Shift > C&C 35 Mk III > Victoria, BC > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
