My understanding was that if the water flows from the hose at a greater rate 
than it can be pushed by the exhaust gas from the muffler to the thruhull then 
water will accumulate between the muffler and the mixing elbow.  Eventually it 
will overflow on the wrong side of the mixing elbow into the cylinder...  
leading to catastrophic consequences.  If my understanding is correct, the 
situation would be the same for a fresh or raw water cooled engine.

I think it is just much easier to rely on the raw water pump to determine the 
water flow using the bucket trick.  I need the bucket setup in any case for 
feeding antifreeze, so I simply put the hose in the bucket for running the 
engine.

Now this is all theoretical knowledge I got from books and forums.  When I 
changed my impeller this fall, I noticed that the little chambers formed by the 
vanes never overlap both the input and output openings at the same time.  This 
implies that the fresh water pump will limit the flow of water pushed into the 
engine, no matter the flow of water that the hose is set to deliver...  Unless 
the hose pressure is high enough to bypass the vanes.  Or if the y-valve is 
installed after the raw water pump (which would be a very bad idea since the 
pump would run dry).

Sébastien Lemieux
Merlot X - C&C 30 mk2 1987
Mooney Bay - Lake Champlain

On Nov 14, 2012, at 18:20, David Risch wrote:

> Until I did the y-valve install, so did I...but I thought the heat exchanger 
> protected the closed loop of the engine from any excess pressure.  Assuming, 
> of course, its a fresh water cooled engine...Raw water cooled...another story.
> 
> David F. Risch
> 1981 40-2
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
> 
> 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> From: johnr...@aol.com
> Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2012 18:16:51 -0500
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing Advice sought for C&C34
> 
> This has been done on this boat for years.  You just need to be prudent.  
> However, it still makes it easy to do the bucket thing, as well.
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Andrew Burton <a.burton.sai...@gmail.com>
> To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Sent: Wed, Nov 14, 2012 6:11 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing Advice sought for C&C34
> 
> I've seen advice like this a couple of times. Be very careful about hooking 
> an land pressure water hose to your raw water system. As a matter of fact, 
> don't do it. You can end up filling the exhaust manifold and the cylinders 
> with water, which unsurprisingly, is bad for the engine. Far better to remove 
> the raw water intake and put it in a bucket and let the water pump draw water 
> at the required rate.
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 
> Newport, RI
> 
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> 
> On Wed, Nov 14, 2012 at 6:05 PM, <johnr...@aol.com> wrote:
> Or have a very resourceful PO who plumbed in circuit with a valve and hose 
> connection that enables one to close off the the outside intake, connect hose 
> to outside water source, open the valve in the plumbed in circuit and run the 
> engine quite merrily in minutes.
> 
> Cheers,
> John
> "Falcon" -- C&C 29-2
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mark Meyer <fastguy1...@yahoo.com>
> To: Robert Abbott <robertabb...@eastlink.ca>; cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Sent: Wed, Nov 14, 2012 4:44 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing Advice sought for C&C34
> 
> Robert and Jonathon, and all,
> 
> 
> Thanks for the tips; are there suggestions about best practices when 
> doing oil changes on the 34?
> 
> Mark
> 
> 
> From: Robert Abbott <robertabb...@eastlink.ca>
> To: Mark Meyer <fastguy1...@yahoo.com>; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2012 9:05 AM
> Subject: Winterizing Advice sought for C&C34
> 
> Mark:
> 
> If your boat in 'on the hard', you will need a few pieces of hardware to do 
> the job.....oil pump, garden hose, large bucket and a 10' foot piece of the 
> hose the same diameter as the hose that attaches to your raw water pump.
> 
> Remove the hose on the inlet side of your water pump....attach the 10' piece 
> to the water pump and place the other end in the bucket in the cockpit and 
> fill with water from the garden hose......start your engine and let it run 
> until the engine reaches normal operating temp......keep the water level in 
> the bucket so you are not sucking in air.
> 
> Shut engine down.....change the oil and filter.
> 
> Now empty water from the bucket and put your antifreeze in the bucket......2 
> gallons will be more than enough.....start your engine and run until you see 
> antifreeze exiting from your exhaust.....shut engine down.
> 
> Some people leave the 10' hose connected to the water pump all 
> winter....makes it easy in the Spring to start your engine before launch to 
> retrieve the antifreeze in the engine.  Some disconnect it and reconnect the 
> raw water hose.
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> Bob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On 2012/11/12 11:03 PM, Mark Meyer wrote:
> Hi List,
> 
> Short season for me this year, bought our C&C34 this spring and did a lot
> to bring her back to where she needs to be. But I'm late winterizing the 
> Diesel 
> engine and am looking for advice and tricks to speed me through getting
> this engine done.
> 
> Any Advice?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> 
> Mark Meyer
> SV Freedom, Whitehall MI
> 
> 
> 
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