I used to really like my moustache bars, but now I don't, so I kind of
wonder about angles, too. I did have albatross bars on that bike for a
while, and a different seat. Either I didn't set the m-bars up the same as
they had been before, or else *I* changed...
Philip
www.biketinker.com
On Thu
I think the new heavy duty tour bike will be priced in that $1000 range
(frame only) and so will sell quite well. I also think the Taiwan frames
are working and make it possible to basically re-create the entire line for
half what Japanese or American costs will allow. I for one would be
intere
I like them to be more or less parallel to the ground. That is, so that
the 'return' part of the bar or end of the hooks is horizontal, or maybe
barely-perceptibly pointed downward.
One of the the keys to moustache bars I have found is to give them a little
time. You need at least a we
I like them to be more or less parallel to the ground. That is, so that
the ends of the bar are horizontal, or maybe barely-perceptibly pointed
downward.
One of the the keys to moustache bars I have found is, you have to give
them a little time. You need at least a week of riding every day
My SimpleOne has its mustache pointed down at a about 5-6 degree angle. Got
that way after trial and error. I have three bikes, each with a different
bar (mustache, noodle, albatross). Mustache is my favorite followed closely
by the albatross. I used to love the noodle as well, but I think I am
Jim, I appreciate your comments and would definitely not ask you to put a
cork in it! Thank you for sharing your thoughts as a long-time Riv
owner/rider and a bicycle dealer. I agree with your logic, and share some
of your bewilderment at the current Riv product line. I wouldn't buy the
thre
http://flic.kr/p/a9aRtg
Here is a side view where I ended up. After a year I switched to VO Rando bars
after trying many angles and stems. I never figured out how to make these
comfortable on this bike. I do think the location of the brake levers effects
comfort also, as there is a lot of later
I use the Soma Lauterwasser bars, the m-bars grand dad.
Tops are level, the drops end up at about 10% tilt.
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Like many I wanted to like them more than I actually did. I finally
reinstalled them on my Allrounder and got the height right. I don't think
I'd want to do a long tour with them but they are great for what I use the
AR for. The pic doesn't really show the height but you get the idea.
http://re
I'll admit this is not exactly helpful, but I gave up on M bars. I got
them with my Hilsen and really wanted to like them. I tried a bunch of
angles and even flipped them over. Nothing worked right for me.
I've since gone to Albatross and Jitensha bars, both of which work great
for me. I
I have the mustache bars on my Quickbeam. My biggest mistake with them
was to have them to far away. A nice stretched out ride in the hooks but
due to the short backward reach I was always putting to much pressure on me
hands for all day tours when sitting up.
I love the feel up on in the h
About 5 degrees drop at the ends, and the top just slightly angled down. No
bar-end shifters on my QB, so I machined some extenders that give me a
similar length at the ends, nice for my wrists.
I have M-bars on all three of my bicycles, they feel just fine and natural
after 15 years of using '
Good morning, all.
I guess this is a good example of everybody needing to make their own peace
with moustache bars. I like them low and a bit far away. With this
positioning, I do most of my riding with my hands at 10 and 2 on the curves
leading from the hooks to the bar ends. When my hands need a
I like the brake hoods parallel with the ground and the reach 10cm shorter
and 10cm more height than I do on drops. For me the reach and height are
more important as to how they feel than the tilt. A half centimeter one way
or the other can really screw up the feel for me. YMMV.
On Fri, Sep 7,
I had them most recently at about 6-8 degrees (http://flic.kr/p/c3moYY), but
swapped them out for Porteur bars (similar angle - http://flic.kr/p/cZgd4w). I
usually have the bars about the same angle of tilt as the saddle. I like that
the Porteurs have a similar feel, albeit narrower, and they c
I agree that the product line can be somewhat confusing, but it makes sense
if you think of it as two separate lines (lower-cost and fancy), each with
three models varying from road-y to offroad-y:
Low cost: San Marcos-- Hillborne-- Hunqapillar
Fancy: Roadeo-- Homer-- Bombadil
And then there ar
I am with Jim on the threadless headsets. I have two rivs that I love but
if I could change one thing it would be to go threadless. It would offer a
much wider variety of handlebar choices, I find it easier to adjust the
headset, and it is stiffer, and more headsets are available, and I like
being
On Fri, Sep 7, 2012 at 1:10 PM, Dan Abelson wrote:
> I am with Jim on the threadless headsets. I have two rivs that I love but if
> I could change one thing it would be to go threadless. It would offer a much
> wider variety of handlebar choices, I find it easier to adjust the headset,
> and it is
Just so everyone knows, the threadless barrier at Riv was broken by
some but not all Legolas'. Here are a couple of examples:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/79695460@N00/6922766182/in/pool-legolas
http://www.flickr.com/photos/20986098@N04/6773347072/in/pool-legolas/
The Roadeo is also offered with e
The threaded-threadless converter quills are a solution to bar/stem
compatibility issues in theory, but usually they're pretty short, which
makes for very limited upward height adjustability. Maybe some are taller
than others? I doubt any have a 200-ish mm quill like a taller Nitto quill
stem,
On Fri, Sep 7, 2012 at 2:04 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
wrote:
> The threaded-threadless converter quills are a solution to bar/stem
> compatibility issues in theory, but usually they're pretty short, which
> makes for very limited upward height adjustability. Maybe some are taller
> than oth
Bruce Gordon, among others, will make an open faced quill stem on request.
On Friday, September 7, 2012 12:10:18 PM UTC-5, Dan wrote:
> I am with Jim on the threadless headsets. I have two rivs that I love but
> if I could change one thing it would be to go threadless. It would offer a
> much w
I would LOVE if Riv could use their clout with Nitto to get them to make a
removable faceplate quill stem. The bar (un)wrapping (and inevitable
scratching) with quill stems is the one thing I dislike about them. I know
there are or have been some versions of this out there, but none with Nitto
Removable faceplate and a 31.8 mm clamp option. I'm not terribly interested
in the 31.8 mm diameter specifically, but there are some nice bars out
there that are only available in that size. The 26.0 handlebar size seems
to be going away, by and large.
On Friday, September 7, 2012 1:23:06 PM UT
I was reminded of one other benefit of threadless the other day when I
pulled the stem out of my quickbeam to grease it after not greasing it for
longer than I should have. While the stem was not stuck yet, I had to apply
a little extra force to get it out. The stem getting stuck is not an issue
wi
31.8 would be great. I would love to try salsa cowbells on my ahh.
Dan Abelson
On Sep 7, 2012 1:26 PM, "Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery"
wrote:
> Removable faceplate and a 31.8 mm clamp option. I'm not terribly
> interested in the 31.8 mm diameter specifically, but there are some nice
> bars out th
On 9/7/12, Jim Mather wrote:
> Just so everyone knows, the threadless barrier at Riv was broken by
> some but not all Legolas'. Here are a couple of examples:
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/79695460@N00/6922766182/in/pool-legolas
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/20986098@N04/6773347072/in/pool-legol
I had fatty rumpkins on for a while w/o fenders on the 'riot and that
was plenty good enough for me to do some trails at Tsali in NC, single
track stuff, not that I was bombing it. In fact, it was most fun.
Dirt it up.
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Yes, there are pluses and minuses to each. When you want to adjust your
handlebar height, or when you're buying a used bike, having a threadless stem
is not an advantage. What's a few seconds' work -- or maybe a replacement with
a Technomic long quill stem -- with threaded is either a royal pa
Something of a dismal record today with flats: I fixed one in the rear just
before leaving and had five more (+5) along the way in a total of just 12
miles. Nothing stuck in the casing, no bad rim strip, no pinch flats -- all
the flats were of different kinds and in different places: first a 6 mm
s
Threadless benefits are, at least for me, largely ease of installation and
setup, this last because I know where I want my bars. But there's no
question that, for fine tuning, quills are far superior. IMO, the biggest
drawback to quill stems is not the quill system but the (usually) single
bolt, no
Agreed. I would love to see a Riv exclusive Nitto stem with a pop-top. I
have a few cheaper ones on my round town bikes and they just make changing
bars/cockpit setups a dream. The off brands of course do not have the
quality or strength of a Nitto so i don't trust them to be pulled on
with all my
I've sold or traded off some four or five Juniors in my day, so shame on
me, since of course I want another one.
The BB is not the original Rivendell model and may be made by someone else,
for it is made from slightly thinner canvas with thinner leather. But it is
very well made and looks very nic
I keep my moustache bars parallel to the ground. I like my bars a little
lower than the "standard." If I tilt them back, I have to reach down too
low. It works for me.
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Can't find a thread for this but I know I've seen multiple pix of
Atlanti with Rohloffs on them. How did you deal with the vertical
dropout issue? I think it would be a cool set up.
Don't tell Grant please!
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Thanks for looking! They are quite something, aren't they?
Christian
On Wednesday, September 5, 2012 10:21:36 PM UTC-4, blakcloud wrote:
>
> My wife is Japanese and had a quick look at the website and couldn't find
> anywhere where you could purchase any prints. She liked the cyclist gallery
I too thought my Large Sackville rear bag lacked structure... so I simply
created a lightweight poster-board inner box for it.
I lost almost no capacity, and I kept it just small enough to allow the bag
to look "normal", while still not collapsing into a non-rectangle.
Many miles on it now, and d
I showed the page to one of the staff members of the weekend Japanese
School that is housed at my daughter's school and her quick assessment was
similar to blakcloud's wife. She said the site read like a personal blog
illustrated with seasonal images. There is a linked essay on the page but
I didn
On Thu, Sep 6, 2012 at 5:33 PM, Jim Mather wrote:
> RBW chases/faces the BB and framesaves it before they send it out, so don't
> worry about those steps.
>
>
> On Wed, Sep 5, 2012 at 2:08 PM, Bill wrote:
>> the very first step is to have the bb shell faced & chased as well as
>> headtube faced.
On Thu, Sep 6, 2012 at 10:41 PM, Zack wrote:
> i could be wrong, but i don't think that Riv framesaves frames if you don't
> get a complete bike - i think i read that they don't do it because the
> framesaver leaks all over the bike packing stuff.
It's been a while since I ordered the frame, but
On Tuesday, September 4, 2012 10:43:03 AM UTC-5, bulldog1935 wrote:
>
> is it OK to use a canvas wax like an Otter's wax bar on the Sackville Grid
> gray.
> I was hoping to stiffen the fabric a bit and, of course, weatherproof it.
>
I don't know if you see the Kaufmann Mercantile site, but
I have seen another Riv in Boulder only once and Boulder has a pretty
active bicycle culture. On a path I passed a woman riding an Atlantis,
then immediately slowed down to look at her bike. A guy at the shop where
I take my car has an Yves Gomez but I've never seen the bike, my SimpleOne
c
I think us old guys (55 - not too) find a tall quill and moustache bar to
be a second and third wind in cycling. There are a lot of factors that
affect cervical strain, but the biggest is that we lean on the bar now
rather than pull on it like we did when we were younger.
I have a Technomic e
57 here, and certainly not as spry as I was 10 years ago. I've tried M-bars
many times on many different bikes, with positions ranging from high and
close to one similar to a lowish hoods position (on the M-bar's hoods), and
I've tried them angled down and flat. I have really wanted to like them --
I've seen exactly two Rivs here in midcoast Maine. . . the Good and the Bad
of it is that one is my Atlantis and the second is my wife's Betty!
On 7 September 2012 12:03, mike wrote:
>
> I have seen another Riv in Boulder only once and Boulder has a pretty
> active bicycle culture. On a path I
That's a fine looking frame. . . lucky for me it's just a tad too small
On 6 September 2012 20:02, tragicallyaverage wrote:
> FS: 60cm Quickbeam.
>
> First generation green version with cantilever brakes. I'm 6'3", around a
> 93cm pbh and this is too small for me. It's been ridden, has small nic
When I lived in Wisconsin, I loved them for riding in cold weather and
snow. Getting my hands around the brakes on drop bars was too sketchy in
big puffy mittens. Moustache bars totally solved that problem and provided
extra leverage for getting through the slop. Now living back in California,
I have an alfine rigged bombadil. I just use a tensioner, also alfine. It's
a nice setup, with a bar end shifter but I think the rohlhoff only has a
twist. Just be ready for the haters to tell you that you are fool hardy for
not using regular shifters and drive train. My setup needs little
adjustme
If anyone's considering getting rid of one, I'm your man. I have the rear
already and I'm going to see if I can make my Sam heavy and dense enough to
start pulling small objects into a gravitational orbit around it.
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Lovely double-tuber, alba's and cork, front basket atop a nitto What a pleasant
sight to see! Is it you, Eric or is someone else up here on lake superior
We're the ones wandering about with 2 gray standard poodles.
Sorry to everyone else about posting all these Minnesota autumns, but it's so
I have a Rohloff on my Surly Disc Trucker. The q/r version of the hub comes
with a very nice chain tensioner. the Disc Trucker dropout is Rohloff OEM2
compatible, which makes it easy and elegant. With the Atlantis, you'd need
to use the chainstay-clamped torque arm thing, which is less easy, and
I have a black one that I bought by mistake. It's new (attempted install,
before I realized my error, but never used it). I'd sell it for $90 shipped.
On Friday, September 7, 2012 6:03:05 PM UTC-5, Scot Brooks wrote:
>
> If anyone's considering getting rid of one, I'm your man. I have the rear
>
Somebody who works at Seward Co-op has a bike that fits that description.
Maybe that person is vacationing up north? It's not Eric.
On Friday, September 7, 2012 6:24:45 PM UTC-5, Liesl wrote:
>
> Lovely double-tuber, alba's and cork, front basket atop a nitto What a
> pleasant sight to see! Is i
AND, there ya go Straight from Grant Cool!
(I'm assuming everyone gets the RBW emails?)
-L
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After years of trying M-bars off and on without real success, I finally
sold them. I was never totally comfortable on them, I think mostly due to
the lack of a position like the tops of a drop bar. The best setup for me
was quite high, on a bike with too short a top tube so they were very
clo
I am curious, Grant: I ride scandalously narrow tires on my two small wheel
customs and yet I find that they are surprisingly plush over smaller bumps
(6" expansion cracks are another matter). 44 1/2 cm chainstays. Is it the
chainstays that makes such otherwise nasty tires tolerable? ("Nasty" is
se
Oh God, not another "Planing" discussion, argh!
On Fri, Sep 7, 2012 at 8:35 PM, PATRICK MOORE wrote:
> I am curious, Grant: I ride scandalously narrow tires on my two small
> wheel customs and yet I find that they are surprisingly plush over smaller
> bumps (6" expansion cracks are another matte
Thanks for the fast response, Jim. I totally forgot to mention that I'd like
silver (so I can satisfy my need for aesthetic continuity and all that).
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My original plan for my Bomba was wavering between either a Bullmoose, or a
dirt-drop stem with an off-road dirt drop bar (Woodchippers, Midge, original
RM2, etc.). While awaiting my frame, I'd whittled through the list, narrowing
it down to wanting an RM2, but having a time getting ahold of on
What makes all this talk of tubes and what does to what to what meaningless
is that no two people are the same ! Not only are bodies different... but
our perceptions and feel for what we wish to experience are vastly
different. So in making a frame ... the one designing it has to go with
the
This attitude seems a bit too whimsical to me. I agree with Grant that the
minutiae of tubing thicknesses, tensile strengths and butt lengths mean
little apart from the context of the whole frame and its user, but after
all, Grant doesn't build his frames out of just anything.
Patrick "resolutely
In Kingsport, I've only seen one other Riv, a green Quickbeam, was heading the
other way on our local bike path.
Nearby, in Bristol, on another bike path, saw an AHH, again headed the other
way, didn't get to speak to...
in Abingdon, on the Creeper, saw a gal on a blue Ram, got off a 'nice bike
Oh! The old Nitto RM-14 is now the RM-13; the new RM-14 is a 31.8 handlebar;
the Ragley Luxy is another 31.8. I liked them, but there were SO few 31.8
quill stems out there, and they weren't pretty... I really wanted a Nitto
Dirt-Drop stem in 31.8, no such thing... Went w/the 26, which lets me
Do Riv and "budget price" go together ? lol !I too have followed Riv
since just before the Atlantis came out for a whopping $950. The Bombadil
was what ... about $14-1500 when introduced ?Point being ... even if
they could meet a price point ... for numerous reasons they don't stay
t
I have a heretical theory. Thin tires are plush, if you run em soft
that is.
It seems to me that at equal pressure fatter tires ride harder than
skinnier ones.
For example, when I was riding 22c tubulars at 55 or 60 psi going up
the ridge in the local open space they were quite cushy (it takes a
lo
Jim, glad you know all the riv's here!
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Everyone who likes (vintage articles about) lugged steel frames and debates
about tubing diameter should read this 1987 article linked via Bruce Gordon
(who made both the bikes in the best):
http://www.bgcycles.com/frame-tubing-selection.html
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As both BG & GP point out, the art of design has been fine tuned over
decades. The recognizable names making steel frames today have
probably thousands of frames each in their experience. They know what
they're doing. Spend your time on the fun stuff like picking out the
ideal parts for your own
Very true, outside of full custom status the tubing mix means litltle
outside of coffee talk with our friends. I love my bombadil, and I loved
my 531 bikes but I find I can ride the bombadil without worrying about
flexing it to the max under my generous body while still getting a "lively"
ride.
O
I think it helps you pick the bike that you want. Touring, the Atlantis has
thicker tubes, fast road... the Roadeo has thinner tubes... Bomber trail
bike... the Bombadil has the thickest. You factor in your body weight,
what you want to carry and pick the bike that meets those needs. Diameter
I have luckily never had a failure on a bike but I have to say the bike i
pushed to the max was a Nishiki Cresta that between me and my daughter and
some stuff weighed in at over 300lbs. Cant say it rode like a dream but it
did open my eyes that many bikes back in the day that were billed for
"tou
Sure, that's one way to go about it.
Me, I'm not much of an amateur bike designer.
I'm not so much interested in picking the tubes as having the person that
designs the bike
making such determinations.
When I got my Riv custom I had a conversation with Grant about my riding. He
took care of t
Am I the only one who snickered to himself when he saw the title
"belliesandbutts.pdf?"
I am, aren't I?
Philip
www.biketinker.com
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