[RBW] Re: V-Brake and Canti...

Yes, using a cable stop mounted at the fork is a very well known fix to eliminate the "bow" affect of a long cable run from the stem cable stop to the cable hanger that can be a source of judder. On Wednesday, Octo

[RBW] Re: V-Brake and Canti...

Actually, wow, re-reading it, I am misrepresenting that quote, I thought he was saying something different and overlayed my own point on top of it. That's what I get for responding too quickly. Ugh. I apologize. On Wednesday, October 21, 2020 at 2:08:41 PM UTC-7 S wrote: > Anyway, I should have

[RBW] Re: V-Brake and Canti...

The article claims that the relative motion of the pad to the rim can be changed by altering the distance of the pad to the brake arm with washers. This is false. The relative motion of the pad to the rim is fixed by the fixed relative location of the brake pivot to the rim. It does not matter

[RBW] Re: V-Brake and Canti...

Anyway, I should have just linked Sheldon, whose descriptions and advice are always the best: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html On Wednesday, October 21, 2020 at 2:02:40 PM UTC-7 S wrote: > Maybe we are talking past each other or interpreting that passage > differently? To

[RBW] Re: V-Brake and Canti...

Maybe we are talking past each other or interpreting that passage differently? To me, the point is not about pad angle, but arm/wire angle. You want a good arm/wire angle at the point where the pad contacts the rim and washers can help you achieve this. For instance, keeping all else equal, if

[RBW] Re: V-Brake and Canti...

On Thursday, 22 October 2020 07:03:06 UTC+11, S wrote: > > I don't see how this general idea is wrong or "misinformation": > > "I try to make this slotted part of the arm be perpendicular to the brake > pad post when the pad contacts the rim. Why? Because this lets the pad > hit the rim as squa

[RBW] Re: V-Brake and Canti...

"I try to make this slotted part of the arm be perpendicular to the brake pad post when the pad contacts the rim. Why? Because this lets the pad hit the rim as squarely as possible. Too far past 90 degrees and the brake loses power (especially true with v-brakes) and when the arm is past 90

Re: [RBW] Re: V-Brake and Canti...

Yeah, but Mark you like DC750 brakes as well, so your views are pretty suspect :) Eric V brake fan On Wed, Oct 21, 2020 at 11:59 AM Mark Roland wrote: > I question the notion that these attributes represent a "significant > advantage." My Trek 830 still has the original basic cantilever brakes

[RBW] Re: V-Brake and Canti...

This might be tangential, but here's an observation I made recently while playing with Canti brakes. When the cable stop is mounted on the stem (ie farther from the brakes), the setup becomes more squeak-prone as compared to a fork mounted cable stop. I was intrigued and changed around the c

[RBW] Re: V-Brake and Canti...

I don't see how this general idea is wrong or "misinformation": "I try to make this slotted part of the arm be perpendicular to the brake pad post when the pad contacts the rim. Why? Because this lets the pad hit the rim as squarely as possible. Too far past 90 degrees and the brake loses po

[RBW] Re: V-Brake and Canti...

and 3. the relative location of the straddle cable cable attachment points to the brake pad rim contact point. On Wednesday, October 21, 2020 at 3:16:49 PM UTC-4, lconley wrote: > > Sorry, but that article is full of misinformation as are many articles on > cantilever brakes. The brake pad rim

[RBW] Re: V-Brake and Canti...

Sorry, but that article is full of misinformation as are many articles on cantilever brakes. The brake pad rim contact point to cantilever pivot point is constant regardless of where the pad washers are - it is a fixed distance. It is fixed by the relative position of the cantilever braze on to

[RBW] Re: V-Brake and Canti...

Although I have switched to using V-brakes, I agree that cantis work well when set up properly. Has anyone linked this article yet? Good tips: https://blackmtncycles.com/get-the-most-out-of-your-canti-brake/ I also agree with Ash that the model of canti can make a big difference. I think techni

[RBW] Re: V-Brake and Canti...

I question the notion that these attributes represent a "significant advantage." My Trek 830 still has the original basic cantilever brakes from 1984. I don't think the pads, cables, or housing have been changed. Stops like a charm. Even after being under all that averse tension and compression

[RBW] Re: V-Brake and Canti...

Travel Agents need to be set up correctly so the cable has no relative motion with respect to the pulley, especially around the bridging hole. Otherwise, the sharp kink and repeated motion may possibly cause the cable to fray. The key is to ensure the bridging hole is set correctly within the r

[RBW] Re: V-Brake and Canti...

Daniel's statement makes some sense- "but there are significant benefits to long-pull brakes, both rim and mechanical disc, in that the cable is under less tension so the cable stretches less and the housing compresses less as a result." That's enough of a reason to never use cantilevers again.

[RBW] Re: V-Brake and Canti...

Twice I had frayed cables even when installed by LBS. I was told by 2 different bike mechanics frayed cables were not uncommon - also I remember the feel was not as good as direct. YMMV On Monday, October 19, 2020 at 11:00:48 AM UTC-7 vhans...@gmail.com wrote: > Please expand? I have used tr

[RBW] Re: V-Brake and Canti...

Please expand? I have used travel agents for years, even replaced cables on them.. I have had no issues. VTW On Monday, October 19, 2020 at 9:34:19 AM UTC-7 fugd...@gmail.com wrote: > There are real problems with Travel Agents, including safety. I just > changed levers. > > On Monday, Oct

[RBW] Re: V-Brake and Canti...

Thanks for all the info, everyone! I'll need to take a deeper dive into the comments shortly. On Monday, October 19, 2020 at 12:57:12 PM UTC-4 Ash wrote: > Here's a related thread > https://groups.google.com/g/rbw-owners-bunch/c/a0uWpfDl6Ss/m/G7bKwJ8XCAAJ > > After experimenting with various se

[RBW] Re: V-Brake and Canti...

There are real problems with Travel Agents, including safety. I just changed levers. On Monday, October 19, 2020 at 8:26:56 AM UTC-7 Michael Baquerizo wrote: > i'm not a pro mechanic by any means but i've used the standard shimano > lever on a tektro canti front and shimano v brake rear and did

[RBW] Re: V-Brake and Canti...

i'm not a pro mechanic by any means but i've used the standard shimano lever on a tektro canti front and shimano v brake rear and didn't really have beef with the stopping power (casual use, not performance at all, in NYC) On Friday, October 16, 2020 at 5:18:09 PM UTC-4 greenteadrinkers wrote

[RBW] Re: V-Brake and Canti...

I will also throw out there that finding a long-pull lever you can live with is a preferable solution than Travel Agents. I'd sooner go with a short-arm V-brake than use a Travel Agent, but there are significant benefits to long-pull brakes, both rim and mechanical disc, in that the cable is und

[RBW] Re: V-Brake and Canti...

I’d be more likely to put the V on the front, like Nick. His travel agent trick is a smart way to match the levers with the different brakes, too. I’ve had two bikes that needed Paul minimotos to cure the brake judder. The light forks and long steerers did the flexing trick under hard braking,

[RBW] Re: V-Brake and Canti...

I have the opposite on my Appaloosa - V-brake in front and canti on the rear. I used that combination because I found that cantis on the front get in the way of front panniers - I prefer touring with front panniers and no rear panniers. The brake levers are TRP and with a travel agent on the fr

[RBW] Re: V-Brake and Canti...

Try the Tektro fork mounted cable hanger as the front brake cable is then direct to it just above the yoke cable. It's a common thing for shudder in the Cyclocross world. Also make sure your headset is properly adjusted. -- You received this message because you are subscribed