Form vs. function? I would say if my life depended on it, I would take the
V-Brakes. In my experience, they have more leverage and are more powerful.
I don't buy the "too much" is bad - it's a matter of learning how much
braking you've got, and experimenting a bit to find out what to do with it.
I would think cantis are much more powerful-- especially if they have
longer arms. One respected brake maker recommends against putting
their cantis on lighter weight frames as the stopping power can ruin
the frame. That is impressive. I'd like to see that.
I see the +'s and -'s to both. In the en
I have to agree with Jim Thill that V-brakes are more powerful than
cantis, but I think that is one reason to *stay away* from them unless
you do a lot of steep downhill single track, where hand-fatigue from
braking can become a real issue.
More power = less modulation, all other things being equa
I would also say that the ease of set-up is a major help to bike shops
too, especially ones that have inexperienced folks (cheap) running the
repair side of things.
I guess for me its easy to be retro-grouchy I do all my own wrenching
except for wheel truing, I give that to a friend who has been d
On Tue, 2010-11-30 at 10:32 -0800, CycloFiend wrote:
>
> To me, linear pulls changed the response from "pressure-based" to
> "time-based". On my lp bikes, you would brake with a little "dit" of
> pressure to the lever - usually with one or two fingers, which would
> nearly lock the wheel. So the
on 11/30/10 8:58 AM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote:
> V-brakes: A lot of people seem to be saying that cantilevers have
> stopping power that's comparable to that of v-brakes, provided that
> the set-up is correct. This has never been my observation, as v-brakes
> have always seemed much more
Making build-ups faster is certainly a consideration. But I disagree
that the refinements in bicycle and component design are not, in fact,
genuine improvements. Here's my take on how these examples represent
improvements for the end-user:
V-brakes: A lot of people seem to be saying that cantileve
Bummer the 90mm brake arm on the TRP V brakes would put the cable
right through where my Nitto mini attaches to the fork crown...not
good.
On Nov 30, 10:53 am, stevep33 wrote:
> those Tekro V road levers don't work for me either.
>
> v-brakes with regular road leversawesome.
>
> On Nov 23, 4:
those Tekro V road levers don't work for me either.
v-brakes with regular road leversawesome.
On Nov 23, 4:17 pm, Erik wrote:
> Regarding brakes--you might check out the new TRP CX-9 v-brakes
> (http://www.trpbrakes.com/category.php?productid=1040&catid=185). They
> are a short-armed v-brak
"unsymmetrical arms?" Maybe you're thinking of sidepulls? :^)
I have a bike with v-brakes. It's an outlier in my history, in that in
ten years I've never had to dick around with the setup once. The
levers have adjusters to change the pivot point, and there's plenty of
modulation. They're prettier
I would agree with the brakes thing. A canti and V brake have exactly the
same mechanical stopping power. The issue is setup. It is also cable routing
in that liniar pull brake has fewer issues with the cable placement and with
articulated frames. Tha t said, I replace a set of Suntour XC-Pro canti
Basically every "improvement" in bicycle components & design over the last
two decades has been to make build ups faster. They may or may not improve
things on the bike, usually neutral at best. Consider the following:
V-brakes: check
outboard BB bearings: check
threadless headsets: check
"co
I have to disagree with some of the statements.
V-brakes are just easier not to screw up during setup (fewer
adjustments, fewer things to setup wrong), thats really the only major
advantage, there is a small leverage benefit but canti's have better
modulation in general.
If you setup Canti's prop
V brakes had their place in the evolution of braking IMO. For big
knobby tired bikes( 2.3 inches+) they were better than poorly adjusted
canti's. On those same MTB bike they have been replaced by disc brakes
almost exclusively. A well adjusted good quality cantilever brake is
just as powerful an
+1 on V brakes with the Tektro road levers. I have them set up with
some Avid V brakes on my Handsome Devil. Overall I still prefer
sidepulls for set up and adjustment but I like the V's over the
Canti's.
R
On Nov 29, 12:07 am, Daniel M wrote:
> Can I also chime in in favor of V-brakes with Te
Can I also chime in in favor of V-brakes with Tektro levers? I have
had my Hillborne since May built by Rivendell with Deore V-brakes,
Noodle bars, and Tektro levers and interruptors. The braking is
superb. Loaded touring with tent, sleeping bag, food, clothes, etc,
coming down paved roads at 35
Another one who feels that the 113 BB length is good.
Will chime in on the brakes - my SH presently has Tektro 720
cantilevers. The main winter project is switching it over to V
brakes. The cantis are not bad. But overall the newer V brakes are
so much nicer for stopping power. The only cantis
If it doesn't rub its okay..
On Nov 23, 8:36 pm, Minh wrote:
> So i'll just keep this thread going as i pull the bike together,
> headset went in ok, cockpit looks roughly ok. went to install the
> cranks (an old suntour superbe pro double) and realized the 107
> installed BB would be too na
1/4" is about 6 mm, which is plenty. I have three bikes with either
ring or crankarm or both within 2 mm of stay, with no problems yet.
IIRC, Sheldon thought 2 mm the safe minimum.
On Tue, Nov 23, 2010 at 9:36 PM, Minh wrote:
> So i'll just keep this thread going as i pull the bike together,
> he
Quarter inch gap is more than fine.
On 11/23/2010 8:36 PM, Minh wrote:
So i'll just keep this thread going as i pull the bike together,
headset went in ok, cockpit looks roughly ok. went to install the
cranks (an old suntour superbe pro double) and realized the 107
installed BB would be too nar
Bruce, I agree on the PBH thing, i'm just shy of 6ft but my PBH is
only 85 so right inline with you. I guess i have short legs compared
to other people, good to know your 56 fits ok, makes me feel better
once i have everything put together that i'm in the right ball park.
Jim, to be fair the last
Regarding brakes--you might check out the new TRP CX-9 v-brakes
(http://www.trpbrakes.com/category.php?productid=1040&catid=185). They
are a short-armed v-brake designed to work with road levers. I have
some of the Tektro road levers designed for regular v-brakes, and am
not particularly impressed
So i'll just keep this thread going as i pull the bike together,
headset went in ok, cockpit looks roughly ok. went to install the
cranks (an old suntour superbe pro double) and realized the 107
installed BB would be too narrow, the 113 i popped in looks ok, but
the inside chainring is really clos
On Tue, Nov 23, 2010 at 11:19 AM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
wrote:
> I'm with you on being less than enchanted with cantilever brakes.
> "Spirit of the group" notwithstanding (it's your bike, after all), the
> Magura hydraulic rim brakes are nice, but may be limiting in terms of
> what kind of
I'm with you on being less than enchanted with cantilever brakes.
"Spirit of the group" notwithstanding (it's your bike, after all), the
Magura hydraulic rim brakes are nice, but may be limiting in terms of
what kind of handlebar bar you can use with them. My choice would be
to use v-brakes (aka li
BB,
thanks, i know i just need to chip some paint and get over it :)
I was thinking of running liner pull, but i'm happy with the road
brake levers i have at the moment and don't want to use a cable
adaptor. i actually have an ONZA HOLA sitting in a box looking for
something to do, i need to fin
I never imagined I'd say this, but I'm REALLY pleased with my first
ever set of linear pull (aka "V-brakes") on my Bombadil. For years I
was a hydraulic disc-brake snob, thumbing my nose at all other brakes
(in general), and any rim brakes that weren't cantis (Boy, what a
maroon!!!). I run Av
I actually much prefer a cable hanger from the seatpost bolt (The WF
Sams have a brazed on cable stop). However, the cable hanger included
with my Sam didn't really fit, so I got the longer Surly with built in
barrel adjuster. Very nice, though the new Nitto cable hanger Riv
sells looks even nicer
you can use those little rubber donuts to keep the cable away from the
frame.
Glad you are haapy with the new Hillborne. That was my 1st too. I've
since sold it and have a green Rambuillet. I was very happy with the
fit and ride of the Sam, not as much with the expanded top tube
"look". I do miss t
Don't worry! :-)
Although Jagwire has a nice cable kit with a sheath for the exposed cable.
On Mon, Nov 22, 2010 at 9:04 PM, Minh wrote:
> thanks guys, wierd duh moment for me tonite, for some reason it never
> registered to me that i could run side-pulls or canti's on this. I
> stared at the
thanks guys, wierd duh moment for me tonite, for some reason it never
registered to me that i could run side-pulls or canti's on this. I
stared at the frame tonite for a few minutes wondering why grant built
a canti bike without the cable stop in the rear before i realized that
i could use side-pu
I'd not worry about trying put a disc brake on the bike. They stop just fine
with either a canti or liniar brake.
On Tue, Nov 23, 2010 at 12:24 PM, cyclotourist wrote:
> Those orange Sams are a pretty nice gateway drug...
>
>
> On Mon, Nov 22, 2010 at 7:52 PM, rcnute wrote:
>
>> Nice to score th
Those orange Sams are a pretty nice gateway drug...
On Mon, Nov 22, 2010 at 7:52 PM, rcnute wrote:
> Nice to score the orange! Soon you'll ride it so much you'll forget
> about the paint. I vote blue bar tape.
>
> Ryan
>
> On Nov 22, 1:51 pm, Minh wrote:
> > First i want to say thanks to ever
Nice to score the orange! Soon you'll ride it so much you'll forget
about the paint. I vote blue bar tape.
Ryan
On Nov 22, 1:51 pm, Minh wrote:
> First i want to say thanks to everyone on this group, i've been a Riv
> member for a long time but away for the last few years. I recently
> looked
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