my annoying chirp exposed itself. Went over the rear brake setup, took the
wheel in for tighten and true - it persisted. Never right off, but showed
up after a 100 yds or so, and always there, chriping on 1xR with the rear
wheel, disappearing on right turns. I watched it enough I saw exactly
Jim Langley's site was, I think, the first site I visited to learn about
bike riding. It has a warm place in my heart. I learned a lot and gained
confidence about wrenching from his site. I learned there to use my rear
trunk bike rack as a repair stand. So simple and effective!!
He was also alwa
Great site -- lots of good information and ideas.
-Original Message-
From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of lungimsam
Sent: Friday, March 20, 2015 10:41 AM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] Re: Drive Train
Brilliant! Saved it to my files for future reference (If I remember to
look. Sardonic grin.).
With abandon,
Patrick
On Friday, March 20, 2015 at 8:41:05 AM UTC-6, lungimsam wrote:
>
> Just look at Jim Langleys page on detecting bike noises:
>
> http://www.jimlangley.net/wrench/keepitquiet.html
thanks for the link - gave me a couple of ideas on a new wheel chirp
On Friday, March 20, 2015 at 9:41:05 AM UTC-5, lungimsam wrote:
>
> Just look at Jim Langleys page on detecting bike noises:
>
> http://www.jimlangley.net/wrench/keepitquiet.html
--
You received this message because you are su
Just look at Jim Langleys page on detecting bike noises:
http://www.jimlangley.net/wrench/keepitquiet.html
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email
to r
Good find, Tim! For something as mechanically "simple" as a bicycle, it
sure is hard to pinpoint some things!
With abandon,
Patrick
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails fr
I'm glad you seem to have solved the problem Patrick. I tore the Hilsen apart
two or three weeks ago and gave it a good cleaning (it's filthy again!) I had
one good, long, 75 mile ride and since then it has been acting up. Kind of a
skip or ghost shift in the drivetrain. In the past that has sim
Deacon,
Just a thought. It seems to me that you ride in some damp weather. I live
in California and our climate is more moderate, but I still will remove my
BB and grease the threads and replace from time to time. I think many of us
on this forum ride a few more hours than the normal "Joe" and a
I did. I looked for cracks everywhere. including inside the tapers. So,
I'll re-tighten in a wee while and be good to go for another three years or
more! Grin.
With abandon,
Patrick
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsub
I know you ride hard. Hate to tell you to pull the crank again, but did
you check the inside taper corners for cracks?
On Monday, March 16, 2015 at 1:42:38 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> I wouldn't call either cup loose, but both tightened from 1/12th of a turn.
>
> With abandon,
> Patric
You probably know this but recheck the torque on the crank bolts after a
few hundred miles. The cranks seem to settle in after some riding. Probably
one of the reasons why most bike shops offer a free tune up after 30 days
on a new bike. Hope your mystery noise is gone!
On Sunday, March 15, 201
I wouldn't call either cup loose, but both tightened from 1/12th of a turn.
With abandon,
Patrick
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email
to rbw-owners
Great! I figured it was the BB based on all the available information.
Were both cups loose are just one? Which one?
Anton
On Monday, March 16, 2015 at 12:44:32 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Tentative success! I've only done a wee test ride, but that with lots of
> torque up a steep hil
Longer test ride: silent! Blessedly silent! Thank you, everyone!
With abandon,
Patrick
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsu
Tentative success! I've only done a wee test ride, but that with lots of
torque up a steep hill. Blessed silence! It was either the BB cups being
ever so slightly loose or the re-seating of one of the crank arms. Thank
you for popping down this rabbit hole with my!
With abandon,
Patrick
On Sun
I had a similar problem where I was having problems with a clicking noise
when I pedaled with force but not in the stand. I had to remove the crank
arm an re-attach it several times before it stopped. Even though I had
cranked the bolt down, it kept coming loose because it wasn't seated on the
It's Riv's standard BB (Tange or Shimano, but most likely Tange), new with
the bike 3 years ago.
Jim, chain is good (first thing I checked), and it happens at the same
point in the pedal stroke regardless of gear, so I think that eliminates
the rear half of the drive train?
-- Rear hub is solid
Stiff chain link?
Pedal the drivetrain backward - you'll see the stiff link jump funny
through the derailleur .
Also, with the rear wheel clamped into frame, grab the tire and see if
there's any side-to-side play in the rear hub. Then with the drivetrain
unweighted, grab the cogset and see i
Ok, getting closer.
What model BB is installed? It was common for the Shimano UNxx series with
plastic NDS cup to develop creaks under torque, but creaking can happen to
most any cartridge BB. The fact that the clicking is happening with the DS
crank at 5:30-6:00 suggests that the clicking is
Update:
- Swapped pedals, tightened (slightly) chain rings: noise still happens
riding, occuring constantly with medium to hard pedaling, occasionally
with light pedaling.
- In stand with chain, noise undetectable, felt slightly when added
resistance with brake and pedaling with
And chainring teeth are all straight and do not shoe much wear.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com
Patrick,
Could you give us more information?
- What happens with the right crank installed without the chain? - This
could point to chain/chainring interface problems.
- Does the noise occur both on the repair stand and when riding the bike
or only one or the other? - Noises not he
Hah! I just spent untold hours diagnosing a similar noise that did end up
being a crooked chainring tooth!
DAvid
Charlotte, NC
On Sunday, March 15, 2015 at 10:09:15 PM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> The other guesses are more likely, but I'd check the chainring teeth, too,
> assuming there's onl
The other guesses are more likely, but I'd check the chainring teeth, too,
assuming there's only one ring this is happening on. Chain grabbing a
crooked tooth?
On Sunday, March 15, 2015 at 2:58:56 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Hunqapillar mystery: I’ve removed my front derailer and the ent
Check pedals, also, although the bolts are a much more likely culprit.
Dan, DC
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@
Check the chainring bolts. Make sure they're good and snug. Could be
something else, but that's the first thing I check when I have a sound like
that, which happened today in fact.
David
Chicago
On Sunday, March 15, 2015 at 4:58:56 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Hunqapillar mystery: I’ve re
27 matches
Mail list logo
