I have a 2x10 hard tail and I like it. This is coming from a guy who was
holding onto 9sp rapid rise like the last drop of water on earth.
I don't think I'd like a 1x drivetrain because it takes many more clicks to
dump a lot of gear on trails. On rolling terrain, I'm sure it's nice. The
stron
Not a 100 percent tangent, but I bought a nice carbon mountain bike. I picked
the best frame with mediocre parts (deore 2x10). I just bought an XTR
drivetrain for it from chain reaction (also 2x10). I'm kind of toying with
putting this high end drivetrain on my Atlantis instead. Just for fun.
Keith, what's the clearance like with those tires? I've had 2.25 in my
Atlantis and it's really darn close. I've rubbed the paint off after a
muddy ride.
On Sunday, April 24, 2016 at 3:08:19 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> That's what I hope is the case, since if I make the switch, it will
That's what I hope is the case, since if I make the switch, it will
probably come with a switch from Origin 8 mtb bar to some sort of dirt drop
bar, set high, and with this, bar end shifters. I've shifted 9 with
Silvers, and I am hoping that 10 won't be that much harder.
On Sun, Apr 24, 2016 at 1:
That is indeed the question most succinctly put. My "road bike for dirt" --
not the singletrack mountain bike -- is geared with a "subcompact" 2X9, 38
X 24, where I hardly ever use the 24, and where I shift the 9 with Silver
(friction) bar end shifters. At least with friction, it's much easier to
c
I don't have personal experience with running friction on a 1X10 setup, but
I think dstein's thought on it makes sense. I would bet you can go from
11-13 to 36-42 on a Sunrace 10-speed cassette by friction shifting in about
the same time as it would take to drop on a front derailleur. With just
Patrick "rhetorical question" Moore wrote:
"Ted "no context" Kelly"'s reply is doubtless made to my question. But I
disagree, ..."
In response to my negative reply to his previous query:
"Will a well considered 1X10 give you the nice, close flatland cruising
gears, with bailouts just a flick or
I'll be interested to hear user's opinions of the advantages/disadvantages
of 1Xn versus 2 or 3 Xn. I'm not convinced (yet) that a 1Xn won't work
better in such situations than the other. Sure, you can't just dump the
chain to a smaller ring, but OTOH, rear shifts are generally easier,
faster, and
Very nice set-up! I always admire the simple look of the 1x.
Seems like the Shimano XTR 1x chainring has a "Proprietary Chain Retention
Technology". Not sure what this is, but it could be similar to Sram's 1x
rings, with longer teeth to hold the chain better. I would like this
better than my
Well your question that Ted replied 'no' to was: Will a well considered
1X10 give you the nice, close flatland cruising gears, with bailouts just a
flick or 2 away?
Which I agree with his answer, if thats what he was answering. By giving up
the front options, you can't just 'flick' the front derai
Ted "no context" Kelly"'s reply is doubtless made to my question. But I
disagree, at least theoretically, and I'd like to hear from others who have
actually made the change, and have used both systems, and have concrete
experience to relate.
This is what I've thought of:
34.0
11.0 83.5
13.0 70.1
No
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All of this list interest in 1 X n drivetrains; I'm intrigued. I'll be
interested to hear how this compares to the 3Xn or 2Xn originals,
particularly for somewhat technical riding -- ie, where you have to dump or
gain large gear differences right away.
I just rode my '96 (Santa Cruz-built, please)
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