I use a sharp utility knife and carefully whittle the outer plastic casing
away. Once you get a nice 2-4" bare section of housing (you will see the
longitudinal winding of this type of "compressionless" housing), you can
extract the lining with a needle-nose plier after "uncoiling" the housing.
It's sold separately (and pretty cheap), not extracted from the housing. The
term 'housing liner' is misleading. If you have a lbs, they may give you a
chunk for free.
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No but it will cut into the paint.
On Monday, January 14, 2013 11:39:42 AM UTC-7, Skenry wrote:
>
> Are we really thinking that a piece of wire is going to cut into a 1/8th
> inch thick piece of steel and it wont cut right thru a plastic cable liner?
>
> Scott
>
>
> On Mon, Jan 14, 2013 at 1:
Are we really thinking that a piece of wire is going to cut into a 1/8th
inch thick piece of steel and it wont cut right thru a plastic cable liner?
Scott
On Mon, Jan 14, 2013 at 1:33 PM, Steve Wimberg wrote:
> I've seen the idea of using cable lining before. How does one go about
> extractin
I used similar cable covering when building up my Atlantis, while buying
bulk brake and shifter housing at my LBS I just asked for some which they
had in bulk.
On Monday, January 14, 2013 11:33:41 AM UTC-7, stevew wrote:
>
> I've seen the idea of using cable lining before. How does one go about
I've seen the idea of using cable lining before. How does one go about
extracting it from the housing?
Steve
On Jan 14, 2013, at 12:26 PM, Toshi Takeuchi wrote:
> I got some plastic tubing that I route the cables through. I thought
> that maybe it's fairly standard practice. The first time I
I think more than a few of us may have been initially weirded-out by
using the bottom bracket shell as a cable guide, but honestly it really
doesn't make any difference. Friction is friction, and no one in the
history of derailleurs has even sawn through their bottom bracket. What
I and many
I have some experience using Campagnolo and other old-school clamp-on devices.
I don't think the 1 1/8 clamp can be stretched to fit 1 1/4. The diameter of
the circle the clamp would need to fit around is about .4 inches longer (do the
math here: http://math.about.com/library/blcirclecalculator.
I've never been a huge fan of how the derailer cables are routed underneath the
bottom bracket of my Ram, due to the fact that they are just rubbing against
the bare frame. Does anyone have any thoughts on using something like this
Campy cable guide?
http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?ID=E