Does anyone make quality steel cranks?
Seems like a perfect "Riv" project.
On Sat, Feb 14, 2015 at 1:34 PM, Benedikt wrote:
> I added a few pictures for those of you who wanted to see the other side of
> the crank including some "mating" the two up.
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/neutralbuoyanc
Also take a look at the soma Lauterwasser bar remake:
http://www.somafab.com/archives/product/lauterwasser-crmo-handlebar
On Wed, Sep 3, 2014 at 6:11 PM, DS wrote:
> My 'long' rides are 50-ish miles and they're fine for comfort (mixed road
> and trail). Not sure if that helps. Just as comf
When brakes squeal the spokes in the wheel act like strings on a musical
instrument.
If you want it to stop, and don't want a huge amount of playing around with
it, just install a brake booster.
On Tue, Jul 29, 2014 at 1:29 PM, dougP wrote:
> To get the ball rolling I'll guess wheel diameter b
There are many good reasons to have wheels built locally. This is one of
them.
On Sat, Jul 19, 2014 at 2:08 PM, RJM wrote:
> My Rich built Phil "Rivy" hubbed wheels included a set of shimano skewers.
> My bet is that they were left out of the box and forgotten. Mistakes
> happen, isn't the end
To prevent rust, Boeshield is the best stuff.
An article from Wood magazine comparing "rust busters":
boeshield.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/stop*rust*.pdf
On Tue, Jul 1, 2014 at 9:10 AM, Phil Bickford wrote:
> I agree with Jim's feelings about WD-40. It's something I might use as a
> sub
If you have any issues with the set up:
http://sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html
https://www.bbinstitute.com/dl/dx_demo_chapter_10.pdf
On Thu, Jun 26, 2014 at 2:24 PM, Steve Palincsar wrote:
> On 06/26/2014 10:16 AM, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Jay -- chainline is no more important for a 1X1 th
Anyone using the box eclipse v-brakes want to comment on them?
On Sat, Jun 21, 2014 at 1:15 PM, Mark Chandler
wrote:
> That would be indeed be useful info, but many manu's don't list that
> measurement. I do know that the Paul MotoLite has an extended range of
> adjustment, as do BOX/Promax.
>
Jun 21, 2014 at 5:16 PM, Zack B wrote:
>
>> Anyone using the box eclipse v-brakes want to comment on them?
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Jun 21, 2014 at 1:15 PM, Mark Chandler
>> wrote:
>>
>>> That would be indeed be useful info, but many manu's don't
Wipe the outside of the chain off completely or it will pick up crap.
n Jun 12, 2014 2:41 PM, "Patrick Moore" wrote:
>
> I'd like to hear about this, too, because I live in a very dusty area.
Perhaps this lube is not the best for our very fine, ex-river-silt sand,
but I do like the presumed cheap
pivot. The WD-40 provides a film that allows the heavy oil to
slip right in.
Now wipe the chain off until the outside is completely dry.
You now have all the oil where it is needed, and none where it will attract
dirt.
On Thu, Jun 12, 2014 at 3:50 PM, Zack B wrote:
> Wipe the outside of
Sram makes a dynamo hub that is specially designed to light up a low speeds:
http://www.sram.com/sram/urban/products/d7-dynamo
IIRC it tested as the slowest hub with lights off, but as the fastest with
lights on.
It is quite reasonably priced, too at $95:
http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping
The company that purchased "Sturmey Archer" (many years ago) is Sunrace.
In the beginning the quality from Sunrace was much superior to what had
been coming out of Sturmey at that point. Sadly, the quality level has been
decreasing for years and the people I know who sell SA hubs are now so fed
up
On Wed, Apr 16, 2014 at 9:30 AM, Patrick Moore wrote:
> Even as someone who is abandoning chain waxing, let me play devil's
> advocate. If you are going to disprove waxing, at least let it be done for
> the correct reasons.
>
>
I'm not "disproving" it. I used waxed chains for years, including mul
Riding year round in SF and PDX, I have experimented with almost every
chain lube available in extremely wet conditions.
The problem with wax lubes is that boiling your chain in wax is a major
pain in the ass, and while the wax lubes do a good job of staying on the
outside of the chain (where lubr
http://www.somafab.com/archives/product/lauterwasser-crmo-handlebar
http://www.somafab.com/archives/product/moustache-ii-bar
On Thu, Apr 10, 2014 at 11:32 AM, wrote:
>
> Forgive me if this has been covered. Are there manufactured any Mt. brake
> levers that can be used on mustache bars? I
The Kojaks are the best fat slicks available.
On Wed, Apr 9, 2014 at 5:10 PM, dougP wrote:
> The Big Ben's that Rivendell sells get good reviews here for both on & off
> road. Haven't tried them myself. I have a pair of 2" Schwalbe Marathon
> Supremes that I ran on my old MTB for a while be
http://www.bbinstitute.com/dl/dx_demo_chapter_10.pdf
On Tue, Feb 11, 2014 at 11:49 AM, Eric Norris wrote:
> That would depend on the BB and what your priorities are. Campy bottom
> brackets from the classic era are rebuildable and can last pretty much
> forever if they're taken care of. Many ri
I break rear drive trains.
A lot.
I used to break axles on 6 speed freewheels with regularity. Solid axles.
My commute involves a lot of hill climbing, including a really nasty
one in front of my house, as well as carrying heavy loads home from
the store. I ride in all weather, and a lot of rain
I would add that if the creak stops after you tighten the peddles, you
should take them off and relubricate them with a heavy grease.
On Wed, Jul 3, 2013 at 2:48 PM, Ryan wrote:
> I have a newish standard B-17 that creaks...guess I will have to live with
> it..using same 27.0 mm Campy record seta
If you bring a magnet to the used bike shop you can usually find steel
chainrings in almost new condition for $10.
On May 25, 2013 12:57 PM, "charlie" wrote:
> I get the weight thing but seriouslyits not that much of a
> difference in the overall weight of your bicycle especially if y
I use cheap panniers for my daily commuting and break out the
expensive ones for touring and camping. I zip tie and hose clamp them
so that you can't just walk off with them.
Over the years I have had people go through them a few times. Recently
some a-hole stole a water bottle, a tube, and a 10 y
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