Does anyone know what size the wheels/tires are?And what the color is of
the bike? thanks, Mike
On Tue, Jan 4, 2011 at 12:40 PM, Benedikt wrote:
> The tires are Schwalbe Fat Franks.
>
> On Jan 4, 12:33 pm, PATRICK MOORE wrote:
> > What are the tyres?
>
> --
> You received this message b
Thank you, Eric. I have pretty much given up on that idea after yours and
others' comments. I am now looking at either a Jitensha bar, or the Goathead
bar, maybe the Rawland bar. Thank you for the advice.
From: Erik
To: RBW Owners Bunch
Sent: Tue, January
on 1/4/11 12:16 AM, Benedikt at neutralbuoya...@comcast.net wrote:
> What model Rivendell is this? Looks like an Atlantis but no where on
> the frame does it say so.
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/neutralbuoyancy/5322621005/
"Rivendell" headbadge and downtube decal would suggest a custom. The
I know it's traditional but when it comes to cloth tape and shellac
I'm just not a fan of the twine. I would always stick the two ends of
the tape together at the top of the bars, wrap down to the ends and
tuck them in under the bar end caps (or champagne cork :) end caps)
for a clean look.
http
So the overall conclusion would appear to be that plenty of people DO
like leather tape.
For me, even though I live in the high desert, leather tape is more
affected by environmental factors than a really high quality synthetic
like Fizik. I have Fizik on all of my bikes. It's the best bar tape
Phil Wood 700 rear wheel, 40 hole hub/rim, 9 speed (8-10 cassettes
will fit), and 135 mm spacing. The Mavic 719 and 520 (the label says
530) rims are the same. In excellent condition. No quick release
skewer. Wheel professionally built and is straight and true. These
wheel is perfect for your touri
One 650b wheelset with velocity rims, panaracer col de la vie tires/
tubes, and shifter. The rear hub is a shimano nexus 8 speed internal
gear hub and the front hub is a shimano LX. Wheels and tires have less
than 100 miles on them (the bike frame/fork they were on sold
recently). They are ready to
The linked part is not going to do the trick--it is designed to step
you down from 1 1/8" threaded to 1" threaded. Assuming that you
currently have a 1 1/8" threadless fork/headset, this would step you
down in size, but leave you without the means to adjust the headset
(or secure it to the bike fo
The tires are Schwalbe Fat Franks.
On Jan 4, 12:33 pm, PATRICK MOORE wrote:
> What are the tyres?
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William,
Thanks, i'll just keep an eye on it then.
When i said i would use it on a single speed, i would just use the
inner 42 ring (it's the original suntour and non-drilled).
On Jan 4, 2:05 pm, William wrote:
> Minh
>
> I wouldn't worry about riding it. Since it's an amateur job, the
> hole(
Dig it! Looks cool. Drillium was super popular in the early-mid 70s.
Doubt you'll have a problem just riding around. Might be a problem for
Cavendish, or if you're going to be doing heavy touring in remote
locales.
Alex
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I believe membership is an insurance issue. Some clubs carry a blanket
policy for all members, so they require membership. My local club pays a
premium for each ride based on the number of riders (members or not),
which the riders pay for through the ride fee. I decided not to run the
brevets I
If it were mine I would ride it.
Looks nice!
Angus
On Jan 4, 11:17 am, Minh wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> In the tradition of poking the collective knowledge of the group, i
> would like opinions on whether you would ride this chain ring. I
> bought this superbe pro crankset for my new Hillborne build
As a former Minnesotan, I completely understand :) No need to join anything
to have fun on a bike. Keep riding!
Brian
Now a Seattlite
On Tue, Jan 4, 2011 at 5:47 PM, EricP wrote:
> Our brevet society is fairly new (2008?). And one needs to be a
> member of the Twin Cities Bicycle Club ($25 a
Our brevet society is fairly new (2008?). And one needs to be a
member of the Twin Cities Bicycle Club ($25 a year) to join. And
yes, I usually state will not join a club that would have me as a
member. (Do believe they also highly encourage RUSA membership,
although that is not explicity state
I really like Newbaum's cloth tape with clear shellack and finished
off with twine. I really like the end result but I realize it's not
for everyone.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41335...@n00/4664845465/in/photostream/
If it's raining on my days off this week I'll probably but this blue
Newbaum's
Agreed. Ray puts out a good product and if your unhappy I'd be willing
to bet he'll make it right. Good stuff rain,snow or shine.
On Jan 4, 8:37 am, Anne wrote:
> Leather: this is priced closer to Brooks but lasts and lasts. You can
> put a layer of cloth or cork down under it. Rewrap: yes, Clean
On 1/4/11, William wrote:
> Some front brake cable hangers have a pinch bolt, so in theory if you
> put the headset together with a proper threadless stem, preloaded the
> bearings with the top cap in place, and locked it together with a
When I'd looked into a similar situation (using threaded st
Actually, I meant Jitensha FLAT bar, not straight bar.
From: Ray Shine
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Sent: Tue, January 4, 2011 1:57:50 PM
Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: How do I adapt Riv Bullmoose Bars to unthreaded steerer
Wow! OK! I don't want that prob
Wow! OK! I don't want that problem. Sounds complicated, as well. Thank you
for heading me off at the pass. I appreciate that. Guess I'll look hard at the
Goathead or the Rawland set ups -- or scrap the whole idea and mount a
Jitensha
straight bar.
From
Ray
That shim is almost certainly not the way to do what you want to do.
Remember that with a threadless headset system, the stem clamped onto
the outside of the steerer is the only thing holding the headset
together. The top cap over the stem allows you to preload the
bearings. With a bullmoose
This is the perfect reason to install my new 40 mm Marathons. The
calendar is marked. Hey Rob, drive down to Irvine & we'll take my car
the rest of the way. Yea, long time in a tin box but you only have to
drive half of it!
dougP
On Jan 4, 1:32 pm, rperks wrote:
> I want to do this, but the d
Thanks for that link, Jeremy. Interesting. I had not heard of that company
before. I know about the Rawland bar/stem combo, just not sure I like the look
of all the bolts. kind of clutters up things.
From: Jeremy Till
To: RBW Owners Bunch
Sent: Tue, Janu
I want to do this, but the distance on the highway has my head
spining. Santiago Peak was the most time I spent in a car in 6
months. This one would be 200 miles each way, through LA and Orange
Counties.
But the mountains out there are so so cool, decisions.
I may have to use this as an excuse
First Flight/Mountain Goat make a threadless bullmoose, which would
avoid the situation:
http://www.firstflightbikes.com/MGParts.htm
I think Rawland was also marketing a threadless bullmoose-esq bar/stem
combo (it was two-piece instead of being braised/welded together.
On Jan 4, 12:16 pm, Ray w
+1 with Patrick on the tires, they look huge, love the pea sage green color of
the frame.
Dave Nawrocki
Fort Collins, CO
- Original Message -
From: "PATRICK MOORE"
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 4, 2011 1:33:59 PM
Subject: Re: [RBW] Atlantis?
What a
look to be Schwalbe Fat Franks - Rob
On Jan 4, 12:33 pm, PATRICK MOORE wrote:
> What are the tyres?
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+1. Ride it, but not in a single/track set-up
On Jan 4, 3:32 pm, PATRICK MOORE wrote:
> Drillium! The solar system's lightest element!
>
> I'd not worry about it; if it breaks it won't fail catastrophically, a
> la crabon fibre, in mid-intersection; instead it will gradually,
> slowly, gently let
What are the tyres?
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For mor
Drillium! The solar system's lightest element!
I'd not worry about it; if it breaks it won't fail catastrophically, a
la crabon fibre, in mid-intersection; instead it will gradually,
slowly, gently let you down. But you can only ride it in an old, wool
jersey with front button pockets.
I have an
The JBs would be great on the 35ish miles of paved road, and don't sound
like they would be a hindrance on the dirt... so dust off that Ram!
On Tue, Jan 4, 2011 at 12:08 PM, Esteban wrote:
> I think the dirt sections are relatively mellow (save for a few 50-ft.
> sections with big rocks to preve
On Tue, 2011-01-04 at 00:16 -0800, Benedikt wrote:
> What model Rivendell is this? Looks like an Atlantis but no where on
> the frame does it say so.
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/neutralbuoyancy/5322621005/
That's the custom Riv headbadge.
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You received this message because you are su
I am seeking best advice (easiest way) re: using Rivendell Bullmoose
bars on a non threaded steerer. My research lands me at the following
link. Is this the way, or are there better options, short of replacing
the fork?
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/alloy-shim-to-fit-normal-222-mm-stem-to-1-1-8-inch
I think the dirt sections are relatively mellow (save for a few 50-ft.
sections with big rocks to prevent erosion, which may have all of us
walking). 35s recommended, but the jump from JBs up to those is not
huge.
On Jan 4, 11:27 am, Michael_S wrote:
> Would Jack Browns be a good choice for this
Would Jack Browns be a good choice for this ride or something more
studly?
I'm marking it on my calender right now too.
~Mike~
On Jan 4, 11:17 am, Esteban wrote:
> Folks - This is going to be a real treat. Some of the attributes of
> our back country are: 1) fairly close to downtown San Diego
Folks - This is going to be a real treat. Some of the attributes of
our back country are: 1) fairly close to downtown San Diego - our
starting point is about 12 miles east of the gleaming waterfront; 2)
Its really wild out there on the trails - no spa-style hikers and dog
walkers (no offense inten
Minh
I wouldn't worry about riding it. Since it's an amateur job, the
hole(s) that are nearest the edges will have larger stress
concentrations, so if something breaks, it'll break there first and
you'll hear a click or creak and know that it's time to ditch it. I
doubt that you'll have a catast
On Tue, Jan 4, 2011 at 10:45 AM, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
> It's $10 per year to join the DC area randonneur club, and $5 per event.
> Considering how much effort the organizers put into setting up the
> events, I think that's well worth it, and I'm sure it scarcely covers
> the expenses.
In my
You can ride support!!!
On Tue, Jan 4, 2011 at 10:34 AM, Kenneth Robb wrote:
> Too long, too steep for me unless I'm on my Ducati. :-) Ken
> On Jan 4, 2011, at 10:08 AM, cyclotourist wrote:
>
> > February's planned ride lets us get inland a bit, as well as giving the
> SD
> > crowd have a brea
You got a good answer from Leaf Slayer on flickr. Those decals are
typical of a custom Rivendell. Or it could be an older All-Rounder.
On Jan 4, 12:16 am, Benedikt wrote:
> What model Rivendell is this? Looks like an Atlantis but no where on
> the frame does it say so.
>
> http://www.flickr.co
On Tue, Jan 4, 2011 at 3:16 AM, Benedikt wrote:
> What model Rivendell is this? Looks like an Atlantis but no where on
> the frame does it say so.
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/neutralbuoyancy/5322621005/
>
It's a custom, I think.
Otherwise I guess it could be an All-Rounder.
-sv
--
You r
What model Rivendell is this? Looks like an Atlantis but no where on
the frame does it say so.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/neutralbuoyancy/5322621005/
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Owners Bunch" group.
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I've been using leather on my bars for about 2 years now, here in
Seattle, where it rains a lot. Although I don't leave my bike parked
out in the rain. It doesn't seem to me like they take that long to
dry either. I went to a leather supply store and purchased two belt
"blanks" (pre-cut pieces u
I have a Riv bar tube, it's got the roadside repair kit and bus fare
in it. I hang it from the top tube. It's thin enough that it doesn't
hit my legs. It wasn't a problem on the bars, just seems to work
better for me inside the triangle.
On Jan 4, 2:45 am, JimD wrote:
> +1 for bar bags.
> I u
Hi all,
In the tradition of poking the collective knowledge of the group, i
would like opinions on whether you would ride this chain ring. I
bought this superbe pro crankset for my new Hillborne build and wasn't
too concerned about the drilled out ring since i have a few spare big
rings in the pa
On Tue, 2011-01-04 at 10:31 -0800, Jim M. wrote:
> On Jan 3, 5:51 pm, EricP wrote:
> > Makes me want to contemplate a 200k in the future. However, will not
> > join a club just to do the one ride.
> >
> > Eric Platt
> > St. Paul, MN
>
>
> Is that attitude from thrift? In my area, it costs nothi
I didn't have to join any local club, nor did I have to join RUSA. I
just paid my ten bucks to sign up for the ride, and that was it.
On Mon, Jan 3, 2011 at 5:51 PM, EricP wrote:
>
> Makes me want to contemplate a 200k in the future. However, will not
> join a club just to do the one ride.
--
...or maybe he's a Groucho Marxist!
On Jan 4, 10:31 am, "Jim M." wrote:
> On Jan 3, 5:51 pm, EricP wrote:
>
> > Makes me want to contemplate a 200k in the future. However, will not
> > join a club just to do the one ride.
>
> > Eric Platt
> > St. Paul, MN
>
> Is that attitude from thrift? In my
On Jan 3, 5:51 pm, EricP wrote:
> Makes me want to contemplate a 200k in the future. However, will not
> join a club just to do the one ride.
>
> Eric Platt
> St. Paul, MN
Is that attitude from thrift? In my area, it costs nothing to join the
randonneur club, and it only costs $10 to do a ride.
On Mon, 2011-01-03 at 15:07 -0800, Clayton Scott wrote:
> Leather is slippery when wet. At least the stuff I tried.
The Fujitoshi leather bar wrap is not slippery when wet. I have no
experience with the other brands.
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On Mon, 2011-01-03 at 17:39 -0800, EricP wrote:
> Don't have mine in a shed, but tan sidewalls generally gave out after
> a year. Not complete failure, just enough pulling apart to not appear
> safe. Had a set of Pasela 35s with less than 2,000 miles on them that
> were pulled off because of that
February's planned ride lets us get inland a bit, as well as giving the SD
crowd have a break from traveling (the price of living in paradise). It's
shaping up to be a 50+ mile mixie, over mostly back roads and ~30% dirt
content guaranteed. A chunk of climbing, so work on those intervals! Hope
t
On Mon, 2011-01-03 at 20:10 -0800, cyclotourist wrote:
> Sonic screwdriver?
Indeed, a bar tube may carry the world, but the sonic screwdriver can
save the world - and has done many times before!
Apropos of which, how'd you like the Dr Who Christmas special?
>
> On Mon, Jan 3, 2011 at 5:15 PM,
Back at work now, and opened a card from a supplier that must like
bikes as much as I do. They donated to Unicef on my behalf, but the
donation was specifically for a bike to be used by health-care workers
to reach kids in remote communities. I checked the Unicef site, and it
seems they use donated
On issue regarding front bags that has not been mentioned is cross
winds. Anne mentioned it was quite windy on the brevet. A large boxy
front bag (I use the Acorn Boxy Rando mostly) has quite a bit of "sail
area" as well as sticking toward the front. I definitely notice cross
winds but it's not
On Mon, 2011-01-03 at 16:54 -0800, williwoods wrote:
> Hey Bruce
>
> fantastic review of various wraps and tapes etc.you just saved me
> a bunch of $$ and trial and error, time, etc. I was looking at
> all the ones you listed.
around 10,000 miles on my Fujitoshi bar wrap on the Velo Oran
After three flats I get rid of the tire. Usually by then it has cuts and
small holes in it. I ride city streets and shoulders a lot. After a few
cuts small gravel will cause flats as well. So three flats and they are
gone.
My Schwable Marathon Plus tires have 2500 miles on them with zero
Leather: this is priced closer to Brooks but lasts and lasts. You can
put a layer of cloth or cork down under it. Rewrap: yes, Clean: yes
Ray makes some great wrap. Custom stitching avail. Rave reviews.
Here's the main info link on his wrap (most love it far more than the
Brooks wrap)
http://www.ha
I'm all for cheap! My favorite tape is the traditional Cinelli cork-filled
tape, at about $20 per roll. But I can't reuse it because its gummed.
Profile and Forte are still pretty good, and will come off easily if you
don't undertape and will stay in place well if you wrap tightly.
On Mon, Jan
When the cord shows through the tread...they are done.
Start getting lots of flats through the thin tread...they are done.
Crappy looking sidewalls...unless the structure of the casing is
damaged...I keep going.
I generally get quite a few years out of a pair of tires and try and
extract every cen
I tried bare bars (Noodles) for the past several weeks.
They were ok but my hands got cold.
I've got em cloth taped and shellacked now.
-JimD
On Jan 3, 2011, at 8:40 PM, Mike S wrote:
The best tape is no tape! I've got bare Nito moustache bars on my 'B'
bike, and I love the look and, more impor
+1 for bar bags.
I use one of the Riv bar tubes on my custom with a small ps camera,
and food in it.
I've not noticed any effect on handling.
-JimD
On Jan 3, 2011, at 6:46 PM, Joan Oppel wrote:
Thanks for the terrific write up on the brevet. As for handlebar
bags: for touring (which I do
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