Hi there,
Well, she's on the hard for two weeks, so I'm attending to anything below
the waterline during this time, and puttering on smaller items inside as
well.
The black goo is not water soluble, and seems like a sticky grease. One guy
suggested it could be some of the flexible sealant which d
Thanks for the info. The fellow I spoke with owns a Landfall 42, and
suggested for the small amount I will need, they should have some at the
club that I can use, rather than buying a whole tin. I will see if it is
G-Flex that they have.
Although I will need to haul again next year for a new surve
I'm posting this for reference, in case it is helpful to anyone. The prop
on our new 35-2 is a Campbell Sailor 3 blade, marked 14 1/2 RH P16, on a 1"
shaft. It is driven by a 40hp VW diesel, through a Hurth 100 2.5:1
transmission. The engine does not have a tach, but I plan on adding one so
I can s
Hi Shawn,
Since you're hauled out for two weeks, why not do
the keel joint properly? It will mean using an
amount of epoxy to warrant purchasing a 2 litre
pack, some fibre & tape. Leftovers go into
general storage for cruising projects/repairs.
Remember: cruising is simply the act of
trav
Hi Shawn,
I suggest you don't do any improvements to the
prop or shaft right now. Use her for a year and see how it performs.
Sure, the blade tip clearance looks too small
(should be 15% of diameter) and the overhang
looks enormous but why not wait & see?
Moving the strut back is no small
Looking for advise/photos/instruction on doing a mast step replacement.
Have searched and looked at some previous posts just seeing if there's any
more ideas out there. Also have a small leak around our rudder post, any
ideas as to what can be done to remedy that?
Thanks,
Jeff Helsdingen
Caposhi
1
Jeff,
Many 35-1 owners have had to do the mast step job, and each will
probably have a different approach. Mine was as follows:
There's a stack of plywood layers under the aluminum casting that span
the bilge sump with a thin layer of glass over it all. My approach was
to cut out the plywood
As I stated previously, most people start with tightening/checking the
torque. So yes the sequence should be - torque bolts, Sail for a year,
check for smile, if needed dig out a channel for the G-Flex and fill, Sail
for a year, then check for smile, if that still wasn't enough, take more
invasive
Go sailing! 😏. It’s survived a lng time the way it is. Congrats on the
purchase by the way.
Dave - 33-2
Sent from my iPhone
> On May 4, 2019, at 12:17 PM, Shawn Wright wrote:
>
> I'm posting this for reference, in case it is helpful to anyone. The prop on
> our new 35-2 is a Camp
That doesn't appear to me as anything but a typical flexing at the keel
stub which caused the fairing compound to crack away. The remediation
which you've done looks good. Use the G-Flex to fill joint level. G-Flex
is the perfect solution for your situation since it is strong and tough.
You may
Are you doing this sanding by hand? The voids you reference look mostly
like fairing compound that chipped off. Definitely get a hand sander or
even a grinder and don't hesitate to go down to 60 grit. Feather the
chipped areas back and then fill and fair as previously discussed. I would
definit
This may be relevant or not, but I recently (3 years) successfully fixed a
similar issue on my LF38.
In addition, we no longer have a C&C smile.
Have photos but have no idea how to get them visible to folks. Everytime I
tried to get a web based thing, they wanted $$ so I bailed.
Years ago, I
I completely agree with Russ.
In your pictures I saw 3 anodes. The oldest of them quite close to the
strut. Some people do this to prevent the shaft from falling out of the
boat in the event of some catastrophic failure at the coupling in the
boat. Being as close as yours is may obstruct water
Thanks, Josh. On the advice of a club member, I got a scotch brite type
wheel for the angle grinder today and ground the joint down to clean lead
all the way around, which in most cases was just going down 1/2" or so, and
2-3" in the few bad spots. So it sounds like I need to feather it further
by
I'd feather it back with a electric sander, top and bottom such that you
have equal distance above and below the crack all the way around the keel.
It doesn't have to be deep but this is going to be the width of the faired
and feathered repair.
Josh
On Sat, May 4, 2019, 10:33 PM Shawn Wright via
Thanks, John, that is a very interesting method for sure!
Just for the record, I don't think I have the standard C&C smile, as there
is no sign of separation of the joint anywhere along the length, just some
areas where there is lead corrosion on the keel, and a few small voids
which appeared on t
16 matches
Mail list logo
