I have the aluminum stops as well.
As for the 10 year replacement cycle……cough……um………I am on the second cable
since 1973.
Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2019 9:14 PM
To: C
Hi Dennis,
I will guess that the sprocket damage is as you
surmise, chain stop bolt riding past the limit.
Notice chain link gouge in port side housing too
when it rode up on the sprocket. I expect it was
an single event while backing down and the person
lost control of the wheel. There is
I would also put the original stops back. The bolt system is IMHO sub-optimal
at best.
I can send some photos and dimensions.
Joe
Coquina
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ &
Melody via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2019 8:56 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.c
Dennis,
While reusing a damaged sprocket isn't the best idea, the one thing I'd do
to prevent the chain override in the future is to get the bolt and nut out
of the chain and install a legit steering stop at the "quadrant" (really a
radial drive). As discussed by others, this would involve boltin
At least the 35 MK I can be steered by the tiller. I think the 35 is the only
boat I have sailed where the "emergency tiller" is actually a usable tiller.
Before I had an autopilot I used it to steer from under the dodger.
Joe
Coquina
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Beha
Instead of modifications to the strut, why not consider changing the
placement of the strut. Due to the curvature of the hull a 1/2 inch
movement aft may give a surprising improvment to the situation. A shaft
coupler/vibration dampener will add about 2 inches of length. More
movement than that m
Might find one with right dimensions. Jerry
Hunter OEM Parts
Hunter prop struts and shafts
Everything you need for your power train
http://sbowners.acemlnb.com/lt.php?s=a516042b0af6450bf9b39c6d664ca43e&i=1267A1621A1A48221
Sent from my iPhone
>
___
T
My new (to me) C&C 30 MK1 (1976) has a location under the wheel apparently for
an emergency tiller.
I am trying to identify the emergency tiller among the many items that came
with the boat.
Could someone post a picture of the appropriate emergency tiller for a C&C 30
of that vintage (1976)?
Ins
Trying to brighten up the galley on our 81' 40-2. . Currently have smoke
acrylic sliders behind stove (storage for mugs, glasses what not).
Anybody, improve or upgrade these?
Looking for ideas. Thanks in advance.
David F. Risch, J. D.
Gulf Stream Associates, LLC
(401) 419-4650
[https://i
My emergency tiller is a silver colored metal tube about 2 feet long - about
1 1/2 inch diameter and has an angled flat part on one end - about 45
degrees off. The angled part is about 5/8 inch thick, has a square cut into
it and a slot on one side where a bolt goes through which tightens that part
I thought smoke acrylic WAS the upgrade. LOL
Originally Touche' had sliders that looked like white acoustical ceiling
panels. I replaced them with smoke acrylic panels.
If you want white look at McMaster part http://www.mcmaster.com/#8650K113.
I use that for headliner access panels.
Dennis C.
Joe,
Some pictures would be appreciated. No hurry. I won't tackle this job
until after my ski trip (all of February).
Dennis C.
On Thu, Jan 24, 2019 at 8:05 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I would also put the original stops back. The bolt system is IMHO
> s
We have plastic mirror instead for the sliders. Nice and bright, we like
it.
Ken H.
On Thu, 24 Jan 2019 at 12:45, Dennis C. via CnC-List
wrote:
> I thought smoke acrylic WAS the upgrade. LOL
>
> Originally Touche' had sliders that looked like white acoustical ceiling
> panels. I replaced the
I made sliding doors out of teak plywood--they look great but not much lighter
in color.
Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD
(Presently in Charleston SC for the winter)
> On Jan 24, 2019, at 11:38 AM,
I have the same problem; my tiller is short (and no, that's not a euphemism). I
put a 4 part block and tackle on each side and use that to steer.
Alternatively, I could use my secondaries to control the tiller lines.
Andy
www.burtonsailing.com
Andrew Burton
139 Tuckerman Ave
Middletown, RI
USA
Many thanks for your consideration and for your comments.
I have heard from several owners C&C 36's (with my exact boat model) and
from their photos have determined that the installed strut is likely the
one supplied by C&C from the factory and after technical consultation, I
think that the alignm
Dennis,
Here's some pics, and yes, the stbd side wire is a PO kludge, - the wire
clamps, eye bolt, etc. Your thread's got me looking at it, time to add
it to the project list.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/4yE5o2R9T5ZxEDCy7
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 1/24/2019 11:47 AM, D
Nice pics. I need to look at the structure in that area.
Wish I had a drawing of that plate.
Dennis C.
On Thu, Jan 24, 2019 at 12:55 PM Neil Gallagher via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Dennis,
>
> Here's some pics, and yes, the stbd side wire is a PO kludge, - the wire
> clamps, e
Ladies and sea dogs,
Just when I think I have the reversing thing nailed, I lose the bow
even in little to no wind. I have a right handed prop and should prop
walk to port.
I have to reverse out of my slip into a narrow channel attempting to
steer my stern to port. Often enough my stern s
When I upgraded the engine on my 40 I increased the prop pitch, which made
her pull harder to port in reverse. What I would do is get some sternway on
and then put the engine in neutral and I could steer just fine. I wouldn't
worry about having the helm hard over. See if it works, there's certainly
See this month's Cruising World for an article on changing the engine on
Peregrine (now "Hidden Hand).
Cheers
Andy
www.burtonsailing.com
Andrew Burton
139 Tuckerman Ave
Middeltown, RI
USA 02842
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone +401 965 5260
_
Hi Mark
Another suggestion might be to back into dock stern first and then drive out of
slip in forward. You can have your boat moving well in reverse when you are
docking which will give you steerage for docking. Throw into forward to stop.
When you leave the slip to go sailing you will be
Can you come in stern to?
Prop walk, etc. is exacerbated when moving slowly in forward or reverse.
If there is open water near your slip, get going with rudder control in
reverse, gird your loins, tell yourself you can do it and with judicious use of
throttle, neutral and reverse drive your ste
What Andy said.
Start with a good short thrust of power in reverse (rudder amidships) to gain
some sternway and switch to neutral (you have some speed now and no prop walk).
use your rudder to steer your boat. The prop walk should actually help you to
turn in the desired direction.
The cross w
Mark:
You said " my stern still goes to starboard swinging me the wrong
way." Seems you are having more of an issue with a cross wind blowing
your bow to port (I am assuming bow in, starboard dock?) shifting stern
to port.
A club mate here has a 40' some boat with the same issue with hi
Can you come in stern to?
Prop walk, etc. is exacerbated when moving slowly in forward or reverse.
If there is open water near your slip, get going with rudder control in
reverse, gird your loins, tell yourself you can do it and with judicious use of
throttle, neutral and reverse drive your ste
Wow
I love that - that is most the time that I have crew however Yes I
single hand a lot also and have some deft dancing to make it work. The
crazy this is that it does not do it all the time. It is tidal and the
other thing might be that I need to increase my speed to account for the
On my 34 I found I have a lot of prop walk in reverse (worse than other boats I
have helmed - probably due to the two blade folding prop). I had a slip last
summer that only made sense to go in forward (we only have a gate on starboard
and the finger to starboard). I tried a strategy that was
Nathan:
I have a 32smaller boatwhat I did to help backing out from my
slip was to tie a line , double looped with a knot for better grip on my
toe rail just of forward of my starboard gatelet all lines go pull
the boat backward on the slip and step up through the gate to the the
b
I have essentially the same emergency tiller and arrangement on my 1976
38mk2. The emergency tiller does actually work (I've fitted and tried it on
GPs and in case I need to actually use it someday). But to use it, you need
to remove the steering wheel and get it out of the way, and the effort
need
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