Our Club's logo is a stylised sail. A small, black version of it is used as
sling markers (the markers are regularly distributed during our Club's Haul out
and Launch). Here is an example:
https://1drv.ms/u/s!At7BtDHoAfRtgaMX-zrY77AxubHvtg. Most apply it to the
topsides, right under the rub ra
I had great success in 2007 taking my Navtec ram and remote pump to a local
hydraulic shop that works on heavy equipment rams like dozers and backhoes,
etc. Chesapeake Rigging wanted $800. I could have bought a new system for
another $200.
Instead I took it to a shop and it cost me less than $5
I have a beautiful 1986 38-ft MKIII.
The one thing I hate about my boat is the anchor
The anchor sticks a mile out and it is tied at the shackle to keep it secured.
I have been looking at other boats, no CNC in the area close by.
I was hoping someone withe same boat could tell me what they have s
My Navtec hydraulic backstay tensioner blew a seal in the middle of the
Queen's Cup race from Milwaukee, WI. to Grand Haven, MI. I called
around and got some recommendations on a hydraulic manufacturer and
repair shop near Grand Rapids, MI. Took it in on Monday and hope to
have it back in les
Thanks Gary I like it ! and may do 1 just for test purpose I got the Johnson
(S) for $77 from fisher thanks to lead on this board! 😊
John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
From: CnC-List on behalf of Gary Russell via
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2018 4:35:05 PM
To: C
What's the problem. Is it hard to dock?
I went to a lot of trouble to get my anchor out as far as practical so it
wouldn't hit the hull. Heavy duty roller/channel for the anchor, backing plate
underneath and custom shim pieces molded to level the deck camber, five SS
thru-bolts, some are angl
Hi Chuck- Can you provide some pictures of this setup? I have not pulled mine
for racing because it does not fit under the pulpit so I would ahve to
disconnect the chain, lift it over the pulpit to store and then reconnect if
needed. One of the unexpected disadvantages of the Rocna design. Th
Checking the condition of the extinguishers aboard Cats Paw - I can’t find a
date on them. Aren’t they supposed to be replaced every 5 years, or is it
sufficient to just check that the pressure indicator is safely in the green? A
related safety issue - I checked the line inside my Lifesling and
All,
There used to be a spring checklist on the DIY page of the C&C Photo Album
site. I get a 404 error when I try it.
Anyway, as the author, I put a copy here:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1M1rLbuz8-4Whdl18Yd8EA3cee0w2qJ5X
Note that one of the items is to repack your LifeSling.
Dennis C.
Eric,I just replaced some of my fire extinguishers. There was a year embossed
on the bottom of mine. One was 88, another was 94. As long as the pressure is
in the green, and weight is above minimum on label they are serviceable.(this
is how we check the at the airline I work for). I use a small
Slick Gary. Nice straight forward design. Think I'll try it myself.
Thanks for sharing
Allen Miles
Septima 30-2
On Tue, Jun 26, 2018 at 2:20 PM Gary Russell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> A couple of weeks back there was a discussion about toe rail cleats.
> I was unhappy
I’ve actually been following this discussion, though I don’t foresee the need
for a mid-ship cleat on Imzadi.
Imzadi is one of the mid-70s C&Cs that came with a winch farm around the mast.
I’ve led lines aft and eliminated the winches, but kept the cleats on the cabin
top. The spring lines i
First, thanks to the list for all the helpful advice, on and off list.
OK, decision made. Lots learned. Lots of thought given.
First, a hydraulic backstay adjuster is just a hydraulic ram. Any good
hydraulic shop should be able to fix the leak. I took the adjuster to a
local shop and they sai
Hi Rick,
Good points. Two reasons for a mid ship cleat.
1. Not all docks (and Piers) have mid cleats.
2. The chocks at the bow and stern of my C&C are not big enough for 2-5/8"
dock lines, so chaffing is an issue.
Gary
S/V Kaylarah
~~~_/)~~
On Wed, Jun 27, 2018 at 10:59 AM, Ric
Some other solutions to the midship cleat issue:
http://www.stormforcemarine.com/nomen.html
https://www.amazon.com/Whitecap-4-1-Folding-Cleat-Stainless/dp/B00SG41IOE
https://www.whitworths.com.au/stainless-steel-x-folding-cleat-6
https://www.force4.co.uk/ys-toe-rail-spring-cleat.html
https://w
Richard,
No one has gotten back to you on this so I thought I would chime in.
The measurement that you provided is on the low end of a 1 1/8 hex (the
min listed is 1.088 across flats). You should be OK with a 1 1/8
socket. The torque should be based on fastener strength. I made the
chart o
simply because of my docking situation i have only 1 half finger pier and 3
pilings one side and 4 other with 1/2 pier. so no place to put spring lines
that function tohold boat from goong fore and aft. And no place no room for
2 lines on bow or stern cleats even if I could go that route
Thi
Torque values are typically based on the size of the threaded portion of
the bolt not the nut size or socket size. It was a little unclear y your
description which you were measuring. Have you seen my video? I provided
extra info in the video description. I'll link it here and copy the
descript
Very soon I plan to have a new to me 1985 C&C 41. Overall the boat is in good
condition, of course there are a few minor issues here and there. One that
concerns me a little is a broken chock on the port side of the bow casting. You
can see a picture
here...https://drive.google.com/a/tecniplast
Hi John,
Please send me a picture of your boat in the slip and I might have some ideas
on how to rig springs.
> On June 27, 2018 at 5:13 PM John Conklin via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> simply because of my docking situation i have only 1 half finger pier and
> 3 pilings one side and 4 other wi
Guys,
As a long time lister and C&C owner I have truly enjoyed this forum. I
have recently decided to move up to a larger boat and put my beloved 1986
C&C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress" up for sale. I am working on a full
equipment listing, which will be available soon.
The boat is set
Dennis,
Your guy sounds better than the offer I got from Chesapeake Rigging. They
wanted $800 to do the seals and said the cylinder may be worn and may cost even
more money.
You remind me I need to place a sun shield on my ram seal also.
I was thinking of using a hole saw to cut a wafer out of 3
What!? Congratulations!
On Wed, Jun 27, 2018, 8:02 PM Jake Brodersen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Guys,
>
>
>
> As a long time lister and C&C owner I have truly enjoyed this forum. I
> have recently decided to move up to a larger boat and put my beloved 1986
> C&C 35 Mk-III “
You’ll probably need a better picture. Maybe from above. Lots of options
in stainless but that almost looks like it was cast in aluminum. Mine is a
stainless bow fitting and anchor sprit. Standard chocks attach behind the
bow fitting with 2 large machine screws.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989
make sure the powder is not compacted, need to shake it up regularly. It will
not work if the powder is in one big lump.
Leslie,
semi-retired USAR member.
On Wed, 6/27/18, svrebeccaleah via CnC-List wrote:
Subject: Re: Stus-List checking fire exti
Josh; thanks the video was very helpful; it appear that all of the bolts for
my boat are the same size; but I will re measure the bolt size;
Richard
Richard N. Bush Law Offices
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255
-Original Message
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