Anyone out there have any experience at replacing a Volvo Penta Sail Drive
and transmission? Recommendation on a good source for parts and expertise
hopefully on the east coast.?
Thanks
Rod
2004 C&C 99
---
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McMichael in Mamaroneck, NY did the seal on my Volvo saildrive. Good people.
John
Sent from my iPad
> On Nov 21, 2017, at 7:20 AM, Rod Stright via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Anyone out there have any experience at replacing a Volvo Penta Sail Drive
> and transmission? Recommendation on a good
Am beginning to look for the "next" boat [this winter's armchair boat
project vs. the real ones] and have come across some that have sail drives,
though most are traditional shaft drives.
What is the group's experience with sail drives from any engine builder?
Google has revealed Volvo and Ya
Not first hand but from reading and friends who own them.
They are the choice of builders because they are the easiest and cheapest to
install. For the boat owner thereafter they expensive to maintain. And every
repair seem to be in the thousands (usually north of $5,000). I would not
attemp
I would never have one. The more changes in direction you have in a
mechanical device the more complicated it becomes. In one instance here the
yard got a strap around it when taking the boat out of the water. I need
not explain the result.
Mike Casey
C&C 30 1980
On Tue, Nov 21, 2017 at 10:41 AM,
looking for a recommendation for a good surveyor in the Annapolis Area please.
Regards,
Bill ColemanC&C 39
___
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to suppor
Derek Rhymes, All Boat Surveys. Trained by Jack Horner.
Joel
On Tue, Nov 21, 2017 at 12:27 PM, coltrek via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> looking for a recommendation for a good surveyor in the Annapolis Area
> please.
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Bill Coleman
> C&C 39
>
>
>
>
Agree.
From 1973 to 2017, my shaft drive system has had:
Prop swaps for better performance under sail or power, depending on what we
were doing.
Tighten stuffing box.
Zincs
Strut tightened and PSS seal put on in 1988.
Hit a log and bent the shaft. New shaft, new cutless bearing, and new PSS in
20
Say it ain’t so, Bill.
From: coltrek via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2017 12:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: coltrek
Subject: Stus-List Surveyor
looking for a recommendation for a good surveyor in the Annapolis Area please.
Regards,
Bill Coleman
C&C 39
--
Personally I would look for shaft. To have saildrive is to truly understand
fear of electrolysis. I also miss the prop walk. Replacing the seals is an
every 8 yr project according to Volvo and cost 4,500 last time I did it. Only
real advantage is for the builder. They do however open up the
Bill,
I purchased Patriot in Annapolis and used Fred Wise. Here’s his contact info:
Fred Wise Yacht Survey, LLC
Accredited Marine Surveyor
14154 Gregg Neck Road
Galena, Maryland 21635
410 648 5052
Fax 410 648 6857
He is knowledgeable and thorough. Sorry I can’t find an email address
___
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal
to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
My friend and former high school coach from North Sails in Annapolis
recommends:
Kevin White 410 703 2165
Doug Ellmore, Sr.
s/v Red Sky
1976 C&C 24
___
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly
When I purchased the Enterprise back in 2005, it was in Annapolis. The surveyor
was Robert A. Noyce and Associates; 410-263-7499. They did a very thorough job.
All the best,
Edd
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's
Hi
In Canada the current regulations say:
7.7.1 Every fuel filter or strainer shall be capable of resisting damages by
fire according to the requirements for fuel systems set forth in ABYC Standard
H-24 Gasoline Fuel Systems, paragraph 5.7, unless the filter or strainer is
inside the fuel tank
Hi All,
I am still really new in this group and I've not really figured out how to
search through the archives to find the advice I need.
I know this topic has probably been exhausted on here, but I need to replace my
portlights on my 1987 35MKIII.
Some background and my questions:
~My boat has 2
Hola Scott.
I am getting ready to do the same thing on my boat for the second time. It’s a
1982 vintage 37’ which has four ports as opposed to two like yours.
I replaced the originals around 1998 and have these observations:
1.) I took the originals into a shop that re-created the original
Use Dow Corning 495 to seal after installing plexiglass with the VHB.
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (sale pending)
Lf38 Rebecca Leah LF39
Original message From: Dave Godwin via CnC-List
Date: 11/21/17 15:28 (GMT-08:00) To:
cnc-list@cnc-list
I have used 4200 with very good success.
On Tue, Nov 21, 2017 at 7:28 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Hola Scott.
>
> I am getting ready to do the same thing on my boat for the second time.
> It’s a 1982 vintage 37’ which has four ports as opposed to two like yours.
If you're willing to forego the see-through bowl, the Racor 500MAM might be
what you're looking for. Sells for about $250 in the States.
The 500MA has the metal deflector but the see through bowl.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Tue, Nov 21, 2017 at 3:40 PM, DON JONSSON via CnC-Lis
Scott,
I have replaced all of my port and hatch lenses on my boat. For the hatches, I
recommend using acrylic. But for fixed ports, I recommend using
polycarbonate for the replacement lenses. Polycarbonate has a bad rap because
of older variants were more prone to scratching and UV degrad
So, just to jump into this thread . I repowered my 38MKII in 2005. I chose
to replace the original Volvo and shaft drive with a Yanmar 3ym30 with an SD20
sail drive. Total installation cost was near $9K..So we're now 12 years
laterI remain an extremely positive supporter of the move...
I have a Racor 110, which is all aluminum. I don't see them for sale new
any more, but I saw a used one on the shelf for cheap at Spencer's in
Sidney a week or so ago.
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
On 21 November 2017 at 16:10, Dennis C. via CnC-List
wrote:
> If you're wil
Most Racor filters can be fitted with a metal bowl. E.g. Defender sells a 230
model
(https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C311%7C2349059%7C2837510&id=3325719)
and a replacement metal bowl
(http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?name=racor-replacement-metal-bowl-kit&path=-1|311|2349059|2
Here is my distillation of what I consider to be current wisdom on the
subject:
Never use polyurethane adhesives, they *will *debond at some point because
the solvents in polyurethane attack the plasticizers in the acrylic. They
don't play well together.
Do use VHB tape + Dow 740/goo of your choi
Scott,
I've done the portlights on my boat.twice, both time with Plexus. I am
happy with the results, but the VHB route seems to work well also. I might
give that a try next time.
In the meantime, removing the old portlights can be done with a hammer and a
thin putty knife. The putty kni
As to patterning, take a rubbing off the original window before you start
the dismantling process. Mine came out in roughly 38 pieces each.
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
On 21 November 2017 at 18:40, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Scott,
>
>
>
Hello,
My 2002 110 has a saildrive. I bought the boat in 2013. I had the saildrive
seals changed in 2016. My mechanic did the work and it cost about $2K. The
original seal was in the boat for 14 years and looked perfect. I will wait
15 years before I change the seal again.
IMHO the saildrive is e
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