Use Dow Corning 495 to seal after installing plexiglass with the VHB.
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (sale pending)
Lf38 Rebecca Leah LF39
-------- Original message --------From: Dave Godwin via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Date: 11/21/17 15:28 (GMT-08:00) To:
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Dave Godwin <dave.god...@me.com>, Scott Baker
<sc...@anglersportgroup.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fixing leaky portlights
Hola Scott.
I am getting ready to do the same thing on my boat for the second time. It’s a
1982 vintage 37’ which has four ports as opposed to two like yours.
I replaced the originals around 1998 and have these observations:
1.) I took the originals into a shop that re-created the originals, right
down to the tint.
2.) Per their advice I used silicone to attach and seal the new ports. I will
_never_ do that again.
3.) As far as tint is concerned, don’t make it too difficult; go with any shade
that you are comfortable with.
What’s going on now:I just dropped off my second set of ports off to be
duplicated. I took their recommendation on tint color (“it’s what everyone
uses...”). No matter what shade you use, it will not mask the difference
between the rim and the opening. You will see through it. If you are using
silicone...
They recommended silicone yet again. I ignored that. I will use VHB this time
around. Silicone to “finish” the gap per Boatworks example.
I will be picking the new ports up at the end of this month (I’m currently in
Punta del Este, UR) and then I will install them. The ambient temperatures in
my area will be in the low fifties to high forties Fahrenheit. I have no
concerns about temperature.
I would not worry about “curvature” issues. That was not a problem the first
time I did the job.
As far as finishing the fiberglass surround after hacking out the Plexus, I
have no words of wisdom. I am totally rebuilding my boat and the port openings
have been completely repaired and painted. You might want to use some Awlfair
to smooth the surface and then paint it. The VHB seems to be a fairly good
masking background from the examples I have seen. If you want to see pictures,
Google “Ronin Rebuild”.
IMHO, do not even think about drilling holes or using screws.
Keep it simple. ;-)
Cheers,Dave Godwin1982 C&C 37 - “Ronin”Reedville, VA
Sent from my iPad
On Nov 21, 2017, at 18:59, Scott Baker via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:
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Hi All,
I am still really new in this group and I’ve not really figured out how to
search through the archives to find the advice I need.
I know this topic has probably been exhausted on here, but I need to replace my
portlights on my 1987 35MKIII.
Some background and my questions:
~My boat has 2 windows on each side, but they still have a slight curvature in
them.
~I’ve watched Andy’s Youtube Video where he uses VHB (Very High Bond) Tape from
3M to install similar portlights. (although no curvature)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQyjxVUskd8&index=2&list=PLV97GZkHhpHMFb660AAGO4PuRKJPmHxDS
~I like Andy’s install method but obviously I’m worried about the curvature
issue. Can I induce curve into the windows before I mount them? If I brace them
in place I fear they will pop back “flat” again later? Solutions?
~I’m afraid of using screws or through bolts in the mounting proceedures
because of the expansion issues etc… Is this a stupid fear?
~I’ve done enough scoping around to learn that everyone seems to have a
different opinion of what the best material is to make new windows out of. Andy
points us towards a specific material and source on his website.
~I’d like my new windows to be tinted, it seems this would make it hard to see
in and also hide the flange in case it gets mucked up… Yes?
~I cannot find a good explanation of the best method to remove the old windows.
~I think many use the old windows as templates to make the new ones… so
therefore they must be removing them intact? Has anyone mastered the removal of
these windows without hacking everything up?
~My boat is on the hard and inside a huge shed now in Upstate, NY… Do I need to
wait until it’s really warm to do this? Maybe I work on removing the old
windows and cleaning up the mounting areas and put new ones in in the spring?
Can someone point me in the right direction to find all the answers?
If there is a trick to locating past chats about all this on the C&C site, I’d
love to be edumacated!
Sorry for beating this dead horse.
~Scott Baker
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_______________________________________________
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal
to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
