Scott,
I've done the portlights on my boat.twice, both time with Plexus. I am happy with the results, but the VHB route seems to work well also. I might give that a try next time. In the meantime, removing the old portlights can be done with a hammer and a thin putty knife. The putty knife will help separate the portlight from the opening. The hammer will provide some persuasion. Be careful, as any dings and dents will need to get filled with epoxy later. Even though the old portlights may not come out in one piece, they can be taped together to form a pattern for the new ones. Plexus is rock hard at most temperatures. Warming it with a heat gun may help the process, if ambient temperatures aren't that high. I went with a dark, smoke tint. More modern than the original bronze color. It also hides the adhesive better. I have the Plexus caulk gun that I can loan you, if you want to go that route. Let me know. Cheers, Jake Jake Brodersen C&C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress" Hampton VA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Scott Baker via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2017 17:00 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Scott Baker <sc...@anglersportgroup.com> Subject: Stus-List Fixing leaky portlights Hi All, I am still really new in this group and I've not really figured out how to search through the archives to find the advice I need. I know this topic has probably been exhausted on here, but I need to replace my portlights on my 1987 35MKIII. Some background and my questions: ~My boat has 2 windows on each side, but they still have a slight curvature in them. ~I've watched Andy's Youtube Video where he uses VHB (Very High Bond) Tape from 3M to install similar portlights. (although no curvature) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQyjxVUskd8 <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQyjxVUskd8&index=2&list=PLV97GZkHhpHMFb660 AAGO4PuRKJPmHxDS> &index=2&list=PLV97GZkHhpHMFb660AAGO4PuRKJPmHxDS ~I like Andy's install method but obviously I'm worried about the curvature issue. Can I induce curve into the windows before I mount them? If I brace them in place I fear they will pop back "flat" again later? Solutions? ~I'm afraid of using screws or through bolts in the mounting proceedures because of the expansion issues etc. Is this a stupid fear? ~I've done enough scoping around to learn that everyone seems to have a different opinion of what the best material is to make new windows out of. Andy points us towards a specific material and source on his website. ~I'd like my new windows to be tinted, it seems this would make it hard to see in and also hide the flange in case it gets mucked up. Yes? ~I cannot find a good explanation of the best method to remove the old windows. ~I think many use the old windows as templates to make the new ones. so therefore they must be removing them intact? Has anyone mastered the removal of these windows without hacking everything up? ~My boat is on the hard and inside a huge shed now in Upstate, NY. Do I need to wait until it's really warm to do this? Maybe I work on removing the old windows and cleaning up the mounting areas and put new ones in in the spring? Can someone point me in the right direction to find all the answers? If there is a trick to locating past chats about all this on the C&C site, I'd love to be edumacated! Sorry for beating this dead horse. ~Scott Baker
_______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
